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dingo

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About dingo

  • Birthday 02/02/1982

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  1. Hi, Are you printing PLA or ABS? I also had small warping with PLA, but only minimal. I printed directly on a glass plate. For PLA you need a bed temperature of around 50° C. I print first few layers without fan, that it sticks good to the bed, then I had no more warping... Be careful when using a fan on a normal glass plate. My glass broke this way, due to the different temperatures on the glass. Now I use a special glass, temperature resistant to 800° C and no problems... For ABS the bed should be around 100° C and you need Kapton that it sticks well to the bed. Its just a trial and error thing. Test a few bed temperatures and switch the fan on/off to get a feeling. Overall the heated bed added a very big value to my Ultimaker! Regards Tristan
  2. Hi Alx Thank you for the reply. Well, the only problem for me was that the documentation is not so easy to understand. -At least for me. Would be good if the deuligne is included in Erik Zalms Marlin. Otherwise IMHO deuligne wont make the race against Ultipanel, because it runs only on an "old" firmware... Thanks Tristan PS: Are you working at snootlab.com?
  3. Hello, how can I use the Deuligne with the newest Marlin from Erik Zalm? Regards Tristan
  4. Hi Chuck, here is a small video of the working extruder: Regards Tristan
  5. Hi, The metal parts for the new Ultimaker Extruder Update from Geo Hagen are in Stock now! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897 Both parts are CNC Turned, with the highest tolerances, Made in Switzerland: - Wheel, made in Aluminium, gear including M8 thread - The Axis in steel with a 3.2 mm hole http://dl.dropbox.com/u/43821967/UM%20Extruder1.JPG http://dl.dropbox.com/u/43821967/UM%20Extruder2.JPG You can order the full Kit including the 688 2RS (8/16/5 mm) standard Ultimaker bearing for € 59.- plus shipping. Please ask for shipping costs! If you have any questions, please email me: info@fabberworld.com Regards Tristan
  6. Michal, The fan on the electronics is always running when you turn the machine on? Mine was wrong connected at the beginning and my stepper motors made strange things because of that... Tristan
  7. Hi Michal, That does not look good, but my prints at the beginning where looking also like this. Its not a good feeling to have such a nice machine beside you, look what nice objects others produce and you can't print. -I know that feeling very well... Also I dont think its a temperature problem. You can print PLA at 195 C. From the pictures its a bit difficult to say. Are you sure that your first layer sits good on the print bed/tape? I had this too, when the first layer is not good you get "modern art" like in your pictures. On your picture in the middle: Do you have the teflon tape on your brass pipe inside the heater block? -This PLA that comes out above the heater block should not be there. For sure this is not your printing problem, but it can cause mistakes in high quality prints. Let us know if you find the problem and good luck! Regards Tristan
  8. Hi Joergen, Thanks for your help, i have found the thread now for more about this problem: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=114&start=10 Regards Dingo
  9. Hi, I have updated my Ultimaker with Marlin from Erik Zalm and downloaded the new Netfabb with 250'000 baud connection. In a test print, all goes well at the beginning, but at infill, the extruder motor starts to turn really fast! So fast like i have never seen it. The bolt turns itself into the filament and no more is extruded. Also it would be too much filament for the current printing speed. Anyone had the same problems? Regards Dingo
  10. Hi Chopmeister Thanks for the reply, I have ordered from smootlab... Dingo
  11. Hi chopmeister Do i see that correct: If you buy the kit (LCD and SC Card add on) from smootlab, you will be able to print directly from the SD Card? Or are any additional parts needed? (Beside the firmware update, of course) How do you control the UM without Netfabb? -I dont see the "joystick" at smootlab? Thanks Dingo
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