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tom

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Posts posted by tom

  1. we should all be writing one slicer (ideally one where I do no work and everyone else makes a perfect slicer I can use ;) instead there are at least 4 people writing a new slicer here - this is a dilution of effort ;)

    any chance the others could hurry along with their code a bit (I'll go and play minecraft for a month ;) so that mine becomes redundant?

    This is why I watch this thread haha. Just waiting for the next better thing while I keep calibrating etc... :D

    I'd contribute if I could, but unfortunately besides simple web languages I don't know much when it comes to programming.

  2. Not to bring a thread back from the dead but my question applies to this. I have the 1.5.4 electronics. I am adding a headed bed to my Ultimaker this weekend and although I don't have an Ulticontroller yet its planned for the near future (birthday coming up :). So the question is can I go ahead and install the patch cable while I have the electronics apart and working on them. Will it be ok to use the usb connection even after applying this patch cable? I'd hate to fry something just because I didn't take the time to ask.

    [edit]

    I forgot to ask. In the instructions provided in the wiki it states "Virtually any wire that can fit 'through-hole' can be used". Any clarification on this. I realize it says any, but I always feel better with some potential wire gauges to look at.

    Thanks,

    Tom

  3. As far as I can tell, yes you would need two licenses to have the program on two different computers. However I should have updated this and let everyone know that when I contacted Netfabb they were quick to respond and reset everything. I would assume the same would be true for a reformat/re-installation.

  4. Hey baphi, I feel your pain. I think the test Owen has you doing is your best option at this point. It seems likely that printing at 245c could cause issues if you aren't printing fairly fast as the heat transfers up the plastic. If you are still having issues after this last test, the only other things I can think of that you might try would be to print either geohagens or Scott's alternate filiment drives. Or if it is an issue with the hot end you could try my fix. I'm still testing it but things have been going much smoother. I'd be happy to fill you in on how I made it work since I haven't posted all of the results yet.

  5. I went to my local rc car hobby shop and they were all out of silicone oil. Once I explained what it was for they suggested gun oil as an alternate solution. It's been working well for me with the benefit of it being fairly cheap and easily found at a wide variety of stores here in Tennessee.

  6. As I mentioned in my other topic about extruder issues I had sheered my brass pipe off inside my peek. I was unable to remove it and ended up having to find a replacement. I decided to go with this

    http://www.makergear.com/products/groovemounts

    and the 36mm brass pipe from makergear as well. Well, it took some thinking and some sanding but I got the piece in and it seems to be working really well so far. I haven't had time to test extensively yet, but it is promising. I'll update and post results and the process a little later on, hopefully I'll have refined it some by then and it won't look quite so slapped together!

  7. Definitely not that much of a hit here in the states. The flat rate boxes help keep costs down and Ultimachine uses them, and subtract the brokerage fee. Ultimachine is about close enough for me to drive to from here. I didn't realize shipping across borders would add that much.

  8. Auch. Yes, the brass is known to be fragile. But I'm also wondering what you did with the aluminum plate? looks very scratched.

    Not exactly sure what it is. Not scratches though. After you mentioned it I ran my finger across it and it wiped away.

    *update* I managed to get the tube out of the alu block. But its not budging from the peek. Guess I'm gonna have to buy another. I found the peek in the ultimaker shop but its 14 euros with a 58 euro shipping cost, are there any alternatives to this? This is getting discouraging.

  9. I was still running into a fair amount of issues printing at 232C. However, I think I've found the culprit. I took the 1kg spool off the back and unwound some of it so the ultimaker wouldn't have to tug. No grinding since. Now to play with the temperatures again. I'm also printing out Scotty's ultistruder to see if it can handle pulling the filament off of the spool so I don't have to go unwind some more every now and then. I'll post again when I get further results.

  10. As the topic suggests this may be a dumb idea. I'm not much of an engineer of any sort. One of the main issues with the ultimaker hot end that people keep bringing up is the heat transfer up the hot end resulting in the pla plug. Would something like a thermoelectric cooler be feasible or helpful?

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling

    I know in computer cooling the downside is that the hot side gets hot obviously, which isn't very efficient. But for our purposes could the cool side help keep it cool further up the barrel while the hot side adds heat further down?

    Just a thought....

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