xeno
-
Posts
554 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by xeno
-
-
After some time, I started back on my Ultimaker+ build,
I received all the necessary parts I need, and I made the 3D drawing to match the parts I have,
so I can CNC the case parts.
The outer shape is already cut, and only need all the mounting holes and openings.
-
can you supply the drawing as a DXF, I really like the design, but want to change it a little into a snap-on version
or if you are willing to make the changes.
my idea is to make the lower holes 3mm to insert onto the 3mm rods, and the top holes open, so it can snap-on the 3mm.
-
I think just doing it as a vase setting should give a hollow print.
(Disclaimer, I have never used that setting myself)
maybe do a small test print, instead to wait for the end to go wrong.
-
Instructions
The trick:
- use a 0.8 mm nozzle [instead of standard 0.4mm]
- print with layerheight 0.4
- with skeinforge 39 [or higher] use fill, with solidity 0
- to get a nice bottom set the 'extra shells on alternating solid layers' and the 'extra shells on base layers' on 999
- for raftless printing: turn ON raft and set the base and interface layers on 0
set the first layer feed and flow rates at 0.25
- to not close the vase: remove the to 2 layers in the gcode file
- heat up and go!
and I think in Cura there was a special Vase setting, you might try that also.
-
I also had no problems with their stuff, they even send me a couple of short samples of other colors, with every order,
so I can test print small items to see how it looks and works.
-
are you going to share the stl or drawing files ? ;-)
Maybe
But I am still looking for 3d model exhaust for the rocket, so I can make it like in this image:
So I can make a printable version from that.
-
fly me to the mooon..... :-)
now that looks like fun ! :-)
How did you do the white and red mized piece, is that two pieces fitting very tightly together or have you a working dual print head ?
crazy nice !
Ian
The red and white pieces are printed separately and fit together (with a little post processing
)this was a bit of a test, how accurate the pieces could be printed that fit together.
and it taught me a lesson, that I need to adjust the drawings a bit to get a better, and easy fit.
-
Guess what I am making 8-)
-
what does some thing like that cost ?
They cost around € 14.000
but it was the best and fastest scanner I had seen.
I am still hoping somebody will start a Kickstarter project for something like this :mrgreen:
in combination with an Ultimaker would make an awsome set.
I am still struggling with the david laser scanner, it works but it is still labour intensive.
-
It was done with this handscanner
took mere seconds, and has a crazy high mesh density.
I invited them to my workplace to do a demo.
-
Did you print that solid???
just the standard 20% infill.
solid would have taken weeks :lol:
-
Still working on the drawings, but it is the hight I want, and I still need to draw the thicker side panels, and new Z-level bearings.
I got my eye on some bearings with supported rods, to account for movement lengthwise, this means that I will have to do a small redesign of the print bed.
If you have problems with me putting the name "Ultimaker+" on it let me know
it still will be 95% made from my own Ultimaker.
-
I did this print a week ago, it was a 3D scan of myself adjusted in Rhino3D and printed at 80% scale size.
it took about 5 1/2 hours to print (my longest so far)
but unfortunately the ABS spool got tangled, and broke, and stopped short of the last bit of my head :roll:
printed with ABS, and was my first experience with ABS, due to the large volume it deformed a lot, and barely stayed attached to the bed.
and several cracks appeared soon after finish, but mostly at the back.
-
Now that I have enough experience of the standard Ultimaker, I really want to rebuild my Ultimaker to a Ultimaker+ with a Z length of about 50cm.
The only thing missing is the Trapezium thread for the Z-axis, where can I buy an exact same but longer version ?
I have a special project that needs the extra hight, and I don't want to spend time glueing parts together
-
I've got a whole load of springs and bearings I can use (a bit of a hoarder
)and I can adjust the drawings to compensate for different bearings, and materials is also no problem.
Yes, it is more easy to order, but where is the fun in that
-
In the shop there is a Extruder Drive Upgrade for sale,
are there drawings I can download to build one myself, I really like to build the parts myself, and I don't want to spend €32,-
DXF or DWG will do nicely
or point me in the right direction.
-
I was a bit worried about that too
But the great thing is, after I put the Ultimaker together, I have a pretty good idea how it works, and can adjust if needed.
The software (Cura) runs very good after install, and I get great prints without tinkering with the software,
and you can make adjustments, if you see certain prints have not the desired effect.
you will have to put a bit of time into it, t get the hang of all the stuff, but the more time you put in the better the prints get
-
well, I plugged it in, ran the software, tested the end switches, and all was fine...
that is until I started to do a test print of a cube, it ran good, just a tiny little bit smoke, but that was to be expected...
but the smoke became a lot more, and before I knew it the peek turned into goo
turned everything off, and started to look for the fault, and it was the temp sensor plug on top of the extruder head,it had popped out
even when I tried to put it back in it just kept coming loose, I had to make some adjustments to the plug to get it stay in.
the only trouble is, I can't test if it works now, as the peek, heater and sensor are probably burned up.
lets hope I can get a replacement soon
-
The bed was not included, and I made it myself.
I made it from 10mm milky acrylic, the idea is to mount some leds at the edges to light the bed
-
Well I thought it would be a great to make the Ultimaker with Acrylic parts,
I does look great, but there are some major drawbacks, like cracking parts, not fitting, and so on :roll:
I think the Version2 drawings were used, and I don't really know what consequences this will have for the build itself,
I think the wooden parts are made so you can force certain parts into each other, that is something that acrylic doesn't like,
and some parts just had a little more room to move, like the bearings for the rods, and the rods have play inside the housing.
making parts fit was more annoying then troublesome, and I got most it all together after 2 days
it will look great with some leds, but it does take longer to build 8-)
-
Order: #1208
Order placed: 5 Jan
Payment confirmed: 7 Jan
Tracking received: 23 Feb
package delivered: 24 Feb
Could have had the package on the 23rd, but I was not home
I am a happy camper, and have 4 days to get it build.
it's going to be a pimped version, with acrylic parts and led lighting 8-)
-
B.t.w. order 100001208 was packaged today, but I can't tell for sure whether it was shipped today. There are two terminals for DHL and we could only get to one of them.
please let me know if you can get it to me before the weekend, or else I rather pick it up on Friday
I took Friday off so I could have a long weekend to work on the Ultimaker
-
That's nice, Order #100001208, haven't received nothing :?
-
I already got a reaction from support, and I can change the order without laser cut parts
and only have to pay extra 50 Euro´s to get the Netfabb software. (with the 100 euro´s refund )
I only hope I don´t get put on the bottom of the list again, and wait another 7 weeks :lol:
Making the Ultimaker+
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Well, I have finished the basic build of the Ultimaker+, and have now doubled the height
I transplanted all (well most of) the parts of the "old" Ultimaker into the new one, I did have to make some alterations, mostly because of the thicker 8mm Perspex.
surprisingly most of the wiring was long enough to accommodate the extra height, and I only had to lengthen 3 wires from end-stops
I did have to make a complete new printing plateau, for the supported rod bearings, this turned out to be very easy, as I kept it as simple as possible.
The plateau feels very sturdy, and I think the supported rods feel very solid, there is no wobble in the Z-stage at all, and it moves smoothly up and down.
I still will need to do a little tweaking here and there to get it just right, and redo some details I want to improve.
overall I am very happy with the result, and hope the prints will look as nice as I hope they will be :lol: