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magmotor

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Posts posted by magmotor

  1. Ok thanks for that info....I didn't realize i was using custom firmware....I loaded up your Cura and got halfway thru the one time only wizard and it said it couldn't set the temp...so I went ahead anyway...loaded up an stl file, sliced and diced it, loaded that up into printrun, heated everything up and hit print...it did beautiful..!! except for one thing...all my test models are printing out to about 1/5 scale.....under your model config it does say scale: 1 so i figured 1inch would come out 1inch...but it doesn't....iam using autocad R2007 for 3D and my stls....would that make a difference?...or any idea why the scale is so much different.....thanks again...

  2. My Marlin builder has "use endstops only for homing" enabled by default. So your endstops are only used for homing.

    I loaded a small test print into your software. It immediately headed for the left front of the machine and did what Robert said, it slammed into the front and wanted to keep going...I shut the machine off, moved the head back away from the sides and turned it back on, the software kept going and moved the head to the center, leveled the bed and starting printing....at any rate from the setup instructions it says to make sure the limit switches work my manually pushing while the head is moving and none of them do.....should I have unchecked the 'enable homing' on your build software?

  3. I installed a brand new board and everything works great....it connects first time, every time, x y moves like it should, z nice and smooth both ways, extruder works great, the right amount of filament and temp is right on.....except: I have no working limit switches at all....manually pushing each switch while the motors are moving results in nothing...I did a continuity check on all switches and they work fine....I tried all axes and switches and none would stop the motor....Iam leaning toward a software problem because I can't believe it's another board issue...I am using Daid's Build Marlin-Firmware 115200 with nothing else changed on it....I am using an HP laptop XP 32bit...any ideas of what else I can do? Thanks for any informaton...!

  4. Here's what I found out. Seems I have a different board than the one in your link. UM has incorporated a Jumper for Future Upgrades. With this jumper connected it will keep the PCB board Fan running at low voltage at all times. With it Halfway Jumped it will keep it off when the USB is plugged in. I was told they will put a diode in future boards too prevent the fan from running on low voltage all the time.

    jumper-1.jpg

    Board-pictured.jpg

  5. A red led flashing? That's the "Heater On" led... odd. Maybe if flashes when the board resets.

    But no green light on the Arduino board, and no blue light on top indicates an "USB Power problem", if the board draws to much current from the USB port it shuts itself off. You could try to add a powered HUB to see if that helps (make sure it's a powered USB hub, one with a separate supply)

    But you could also have an short-circuit on the main board which causes the power to go "out".

    I've come to the conclusion it's a board problem. Here's why: X motor moves Great..!! nice and smooth, either direction. Y won't move at all. Changed out Drivers, same thing. Reversed the two J connectors. Y direction moved when I Jog X 10mm, works great. X didn't move at all. No motor noise. nothing. None of the Limit switches work. I Jogged X 50mm and toggled all 4 limit switches, (to make sure the wires weren't reversed) and nothing stopped the motor. Definetly think thats a board problem. All four switches can't be bad. The Z motor won't move at all. It makes a high pitched noise from inside the motor. I removed the Large Screw & coupling to observe the motor with a Jog of 100mm and nothing. Didn't turn at all, just made a bunch of noise. Checked all the wiring, pushed in here and there while running everything and no change. I can't think of anything else to try except ask for another board and maybe a Z motor.

  6. Iam having the same issue. At first there was no connection at all, RTS code. Then all of a sudden a Com 6 shows up under Serial Ports so I tried that. It connected, clicked on Control Panel and the software just locked up. It showed 'lost serial port' at the command line. Rebooted everything and same thing, turned the Power Switch on and it locked up everything again but now I can see a red led #10 flashing on the board, no idea what that means. Rebooted again and now nothing comming out of the USB port, no light on top, no green led on the board. Iam using a HP laptop w/XP Pro but it has 3 USB ports and all are full. Thinking about getting a dedicated computer just for the printer, no other software, no nothing. Seems my computer can't handel all the usb ports being used at the same time.

  7. After doing a search I found this has to do with the Baud Rate but at a loss as how to change it. :roll: Under 'Machine Info" it is set at 57600. Is this correct or should I change it & how exactly do I do it ? :?: Iam using Rep26, the "Advised 5D firmware" option. I am using this Rep26 just to test the machine for hardware and or software problems for now, will change to the Printrun/Marlin later.

    This has nothing to do with RepG but if anyone knows, when computer & power is plugged in, power switch off, the lower fan ( on pcb board) runs at a low speed continuously, when I turn the power switch 'on' it cranks up to full speed. Is this normal? The small blue lights on top of the Extruder Head comes on also. In order to get everything 'off' I have to unplug the USB port everytime, doesn't seem right too me.....any ideas would be appreciated....thanks..! :)

  8. Was hoping not to run into this but, not my luck... :( i'm missing the 4 bearings that are assembled into the XY Bushing Blocks. In the Bearing Pack there are the 10 Bushings, grease and two very large Bushings. The 4 Bearings look to be copper or brass and should be easily seen. I have looked 100 times and came up empty. Any ideas before I contact support. Any chance of getting these locally? Thanks for any help.... :)

    NEVER MIND..!! I FOUND THEM.....of course the only package I didn't unwrap where the Axels.....and of course they were on the axels themselves.....man..... :roll:

  9. They Lost my Package..!! :evil: scheechss...DHL only uses 3rd party shippers in the US. Some guy in Kenner, LA tired to find my address there, when it should have been shipped to Mississippi.....So what did he do?? he sent it back to Cinn, Ohio...!! :O great.....NOT UM's fault...i'm in contact with DHL and maybe someday I'll get my printer...... :( hope this doesn't happen to anyone else....

  10. Ok thanks for this...! I definitely have the wrong version....From what I've read, Netfabb isn't all that great either. Until the newer version comes out, everyone is generating a code in Netfabb, saving it and loading it up in RepG to print it. To print it in RepG you have to modify the software somewhat. Is that a close overview? thanks much again..!

  11. While waiting for my kit too arrive I am reading up on the repG software. I downloaded the 'latest' version which is repG-0029_r2. I can't find anyone using or even mentioned in any of the post.... :roll: did I get the wrong version or ?? Another question is when I load an stl in the program it comes in so small I can't hardly see it. I have to 'scale' it up a huge amount in order to work with it. Does using this scale affect the print size? Pretty dumb questions, I know but hey, what are dumb people for..... :lol:

  12. [it's recommended not to use the wooden motor mounts:

    http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev ... 6_Y_motors

    instead, use plastic spacers (same as used in mounting the electronics) this will reduce noise. This is a new discovery :-)

    I am still waiting for my kit but in the mean time, has anyone made these motor mounts out of plastic and if so are they selling them? I have been doing AutoDesk's Autocad since the early '80s and can reproduce (STL) if someone knows where I can find the exact dims. Thanks...

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