alaris2

very nice work Xeno - is it articulated?

2) a finger no less. printed directly to a hot bed which costs £20 to make, oh and dual extrusion too from a hybrid V2 and an all metal hotend. (cos I was twiddling my fingers waiting for UM to make a hot bed, then I thought, let's just do it. so if I can do it, you can do it so much easier!)

I keep getting requests to post these, so here goes. 1) SG's most excellent direct drive upgrade. never tension those stupid short belts, never have a naf print again. nice work SG! of course, all self-respecting UM owners have already made this upgrade, so it's hardly news I realize, I'm a bit late with this..

anyone? I'm assuming the problem lies in temperature.Cpp but haven't found it yet

it's gone really quiet actually - I had so many people write to me saying they were working on slicers that it made no sense for me to reinvent the wheel, so I stopped. I also had loads of messages of support and offers of help- thanks to everybody- and sorry I didn't have time to respond to you individually- there were too many! I was reminded last night again after a terrible print just how dire the need for a decent slicer is-so I hope Daid has made better progess than I. whilst I don't now have the time to write the whole thing I would be happy to share where l got to and the methods

ooh! new design? I wonder if they're making those changes I suggested -if so it will make this a no-effort UM upgrade. Robert -there may be other silicone heater manufacturers near you?

that's the one! #include 2 metal plates and 1 PC power supply , and a relay and you're in business one of the easiest and cheapest upgrades ever

Ahh! that sounds useful Daid- thanks!

really good discussion going here - SG - I was being a bit vague-sorry I think the latter -quantify the error by observing its effect on a simple print 0.1mm should be easy to see- perhaps a simple octagon vase would show it on the faces that align with the axes? just thinking aloud here really...

Sorry-I should have mentioned that (about the website) before they usually deal with reprap people who use 1.75mm stuff -but I asked them if they would do some 3mm stuff for us since they have all the tools Robert-about the hotbed-it's a company called Qubd- I can post more info on a separate thread if you like. or pm me for more details

having added my £20 hotbed I admit to being rather pleased with the results-prints are coming out clearer and with nice flat bottoms but I wonder about safety ? several of us have had problems with the arduino crashing due to power spikes or whatever what happens if it crashes while controlling a relay-based hotbed? does a crash automatically open the relay (ie. bed off) or is it not failsafe.in which case the hotbed just keeps getting hotter?! what precautions have other hotbed users taken?

one of the best mods I ever made - I just added a heated bed for £20 too and printing is such a dream (actually it still takes too long to print so sometimes I do end up dreaming) E3D aren't out of stock - the web page is at fault-email them and say nik sent you. remember you will need to mod the top metal piece if you want to attach it to the existing UM print head

can I suggest we make a test calibration piece so we can both see and quantify the effect I don't have any smart ideas what it would look like but perhaps Someone could Suggest?

I know there's been a bunch of posts about the buildmemarlin not working for hotbeds since late last year. so I downloaded and tried to build the marlin from source. however, it appears to also be broken for dual extrusion, in that if i set T0 to 50C (as an example), the ulticontroller shows both hotends are being taken to 50C, not just the one. it reads 53/50 and 54/0 (as an example again) on the display. and yes, both are hot if you touch them. known bug? is there a quick fix?

Mine make the same sound however they also feel 'uneven' even when I detach the belts- I know it's a silly question but have you tried this?