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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Hi I have printed my first dual print on my ultimaker using gcode from Cura 13.10 loaded onto the ulticontroller. Now i encontered a slight mishap or just a glitch. When next nozzle is up: First nozzle stops at his last coord, retracts a significant amount of filament, then second extruder primes the second nozzle, then moves to his start point. Result of this is that i got a nice strip of black color on my red structure. I think the version before didnt do it, but im not 100%, though i have a print thats Ive also noticed that on some layers, it switches filament one time more then need
  2. As i got the dual kit to actually work with newest cura. im wondering if someone have solved the "2 spools on one spool holder" When i got my ultimaker, the spool holder was to thick for these 32mm ish, spools.. And its post hot end v2, and pre extruder update. And when i was calibriating, i had to keep an eye on the spool no2, as the retraction can knock the spool over, or make it run towards the floor. How i got mine to work: Used snowugrounch how to, had to enable the hot bed in his version of the marlin code. Uploaded it. and it started working, though the X/Y offset for the seco
  3. Already mounted the steppers outside of the box. As per the "throw away your short belts" topic. Very happy with that. The plexiglass is mounted on the outside, and 30x30cm is quite right for the job. Though i need to cut off a part where the stepper motors now reside. not a big deal. Just finished printing and assembling the top "hat" using 16mm electro tubes. Made a 3 way connector and a base thats secure in the corners. Its compleatly doable using only 8x 28.2cm pieces of the tubes to build the "hat" Now i just need to salvage up some bobblewrap to complete the "hat"
  4. Either i cant formulate the question right, or cant search right, or noone want to actually answer.. I can confirm that 30cmx30cm plates are indeed the right size to cover the cut windows, thus creating a heated chamber.. I am working on the top part, witch are going to be wrapped in bubble plastic, and use 16mm electrical tubing as a frame. If im happy with it, il post the details on youmagine, or thingiverse. or both
  5. Going to make a clip, so i can open and close all the "windows" Just need the dimensjons of the "windows" (side+front)
  6. Im trying to close off the build area. As to keep the temperature constant. I have already a hot bed, and this is my next step. Im looking at some plexi at a local place. The biggest they have is 1200mm x 800mm x4mm What is the measurements of the side openings, and the front one? Anyone quick with a caliper
  7. No worries, i got it assembled, and i did print the UM handle, just to test it. Printing ABS, using acetone to wipe the first layer of raft, on a hot bed at 85*c measured, 100*c temp set in ulticontroller, covered with kapton tape, and 260*c printing temperature. And it came out as a masterpiece. perfectly level, straight as a ruler and no artifacts from belt tension. Il download and print them sometime this week, i did damage the ones that is assembled, but its mostly rotary tension, so i think it should be ok. But il print new ones, before this one fails
  8. So, i got everyhing, and my ultimaker is preatty butchered right now, should be able to get it running in a few hours though. ive used the wooden part with the loop and a washer, with the m3x16mm bolts. I have one request, the "wave" that connects the stepper side, to the frame side is interfering with the bolts, making me screw them in at an ange, almost breaking the printed part. if you where to invert the wave, or just make it straight would allow easy insertion of the bolts, and screwing them tightly without stripping the bolthead.. I am looking forward to get it running now, hopefully
  9. Hmm, that is alot of wattage, gues il better find me one of those myself But first il try to run it on a 12v Psu, and make some measurements..
  10. so in theory i could hook up the hot bed with the same power supply? This is an interesting development. So if the heated bed is under 40w. oh the simplicity. Somewhere i read that a psu around 80% workload is a happy psu.
  11. Thats is a good and valid point.. il do that when home. I still need to measure the total power used so i can get a power brick that could supply atleast 140% of what i need..
  12. Ok. Ive made my mind, when a colleage showed me some stuff on a webshop, and they had the axels in the same diameter. they are listed as "Centerless akselstål i kvalitet SS1672 8mm." Im hoping they are good. Anyway ive already went to ebay to get the couplers you linked. Hopefullt i get them within reasonable time. Im looking forward to do this mod, as the short belts are a pita to get perfect. And when converting into a heated chamber, the steppers are outside of the warmth. When i get stuff il make some pictures.
  13. Hi As i have made myself a hot bed, i need to do somthing about the power system. Right now i have a psu supplying 12v to the hot bed, and the stock 19v supplying the printer itself.. now, what is the power requirements and do someone have a pointer to a good psu for the job? 19v. I failed to take in account the power draw from the hotbed, as i dont have a dc ampermeter, im going to check it with a home watt meter when i return home. Thanks in advance for any usefull input
  14. I tryed printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757 settings: Temp 210 Speed 80 Height 0.1 wall and bottom 0.8 Printing with White Pla from ultimaker shop Look at attachement The unconnected leg did actually release from the bottom. That leg is closest to the front right side of the ultimaker. Can anyone come with any advice to make it perfect? It also tend to curl up in the corners. ive tried to wipe the blue tape with acetone. it sticks alot better, but there is curling. bacuse the tape looses its grip.
  15. im working on a bertho extruder upgrade right now, as i have problems retracting and it tends to grind. the filamet have nice tooth marks on it, looks abit chewed up. But im unsure how deep and deformative it should be.
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