mgg942
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Posts posted by mgg942
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I've posted previously of my favourite tool for use on printed parts (a tapered hand reamer) but the tool that I'm using constantly on the Ultimaker itself is a long series 2mm hex screwdriver wrench. The handle is much the same length as the Ultimaker supplied tool, but the 'blade' is approx 40mm longer which makes it much easier to use most of the time. Also the handle is larger in diameter which I find another plus. The manufacturer is Turnigy and I bought mine from Hobby King: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11086__Turnigy_2mm_long_shaft_Hex_Screwdriver.html
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the nozzle itself is too small, or should I say the slope of the nozzle side is not steep enough, so it picks up strands of filament too easily, and that often ruins prints for me, especially first layers, because of filament buildup on the nozzle.
Does anybody else have similar experiences with it?
I don't really have the problem you describe though I do see filament building up on the nozzle. When starting a print I make a point of turning the extruder wheel to extrude some material from the hot end just before the nozzle touches the print plate in the homing movement. This collects most of the filament build up.
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Just for the record, Nick has advised on another forum that the Ubis hot end is now only available for 1.75mm filament.
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Just to tempt fate I'm reporting that my (PLA only) E3D hot end has been running for weeks of daily use without a blockage. By far my longest run yet.
I've not, consciously, make any changes.
Might be that my theory of the entry edge of the stainless steel hollow stud shaving material is on the money and this edge is now smooth enough not to damage the filament.
I'm not suggesting that the PLA has worn it away (guess that would take millennia) more likely that the technique that I use for cleaning - through drilling of the assembly with a long series 1/8" drill with only the nozzle and Bowden tube fitting removed - has finally dulled that leading edge.
What d'you reckon?
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Every Pearl White piece has been done with .1mm layers, 30% infill, 50mm/sec, 55C for build plate, 220C for hot-end.
The Transparent Blue has much different settings which I haven't yet figured out because the connectors aren't that important. I've been using 57C on the build plate and 223C for the hot-end and it seems to print ok.
I may have missed it but I didn't notice any mention of the material that you're using. From the numbers I deduce PLA?
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Portability is a very strong point - I'll have a rethink!
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Interesting project - didn't know about the Tantillus printer. Suspect that most Ultimaker owners will, like me, find the current build volume of 100mm x 100mm x 100mm unattractive.
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I was hoping to use e3d's heaterblock so that way I can use their nozzles too
I didn't make myself clear, sorry, I AM using an e3d nozzle.
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I used the Ultimaker Aluminium block, thermocouple, and cartridge heater with the e3d nozzle. No changes to the electrics!
If it's not too late I recommend making sure that the entry to the stainless steel threaded part is NOT a sharp edge as I think that otherwise it tends to shave material off the filament and cause jams.
Also, if you can, chamfer the top the the 3.2 mm hole in the main body - where the filament enters from the Bowden tube to make initial hand feeding in of the filament less finicky..
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and clogs seem to be a strange concept that it has never heard of...
Looking forward to those details!
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I agree that it's far from essential for PLA.
Obviously it depends on your experience with the UM hot end and to me the E3D has been money well spent for my so-far-PLA-only use.
Not as 'perfect' as I'd hoped for, but I find it much easier to live with.
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Anyway, I would definitely not recommend it for printing in PLA - it just clogs too often when retraction is enabled, because of the incredible stickiness of hot PLA. It is great for ABS, and seems to be great for XT.
Really surprised by that comment Nick.
I'd recommend it for PLA though I should stress that I am using the original Ultimaker Aluminium block, heater and thermocouple. I have retraction permanently enabled.
I should also mention that, these days I only use DiamondAge PLA.
Perhaps this hinges on one's experience with the Ultimaker hot end (mine was the the one that was standard immediately before Ultimaker 2). For me that clogged every week or so and was a real pain to clean. The E3D clogs less often and is much easier to clean now that I have a long series 1/8" drill and can clean all the way through with it from above removing only the nozzle and the fitting for the Bowden tube.
At present I'm having a good run and haven't cleaned for several weeks while using the Ultimaker most days and some nights.
My impression which may be total rubbish is that the Filament may get abraded by the leading edge of the stainless steel sleeve. If I was assembling a new E3D now I'd pay special attention to that edge and also chamfer the top edge of the 3.2 mm through hole in the Aluminium body.
Mike.
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Took the plunge after a few days with the trial version. Now using the Nov 23 beta and enjoying it greatly.
I have no hands-on background in CAD - apart from a few months using OpenSCAD - and have found MOI easy to pick up. The manual is clear (though not up to date with the beta) and the video tutorials by Tom Meeks excellent for a beginner like me.
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Yes - I'm sure that cut to length is the way to go.
I haven't processed ABS yet. I recall that one particular colour of DiamondAge PLA tended to break when I straightened it to feed into the Ultimaker extruder!
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Ah! Sorry, my mistake.
3Doodler looks very interesting.
Here's a link to their comparison of ABS vs PLA: http://www.the3doodler.com/abs-vs-pla-head-to-head/
I wonder if it can use material that has been spooled (such as we normally use on Ultimakers) rather than the dead straight lengths they show.
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I've made little use of mine so far.
I'm doubtful that I'll use it for much other than entertaining grandchildren.
The software is not yet finalised and the promised 'trace' feature might be useful.
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Worked pretty well on the UM1, although I had a heck of a time getting it to play nice on my wifi. That bit seems to need a bit of work, which seems odd really, as thats the bit you can just rely on the underlying OS for.
Same here.No sign of the Doodle3D WiFi. I checked the FAQ and the advice there of switching the unit on and off eventually made the Doodle3D WiFi available.
The one print that I've done on UM1 worked well.
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I will continue with my experiments, and I will print mostly on glass in the future I think, because of the minimal warping (much less than with the blue tape, which is lifted of the bed by the warping-force).
I've tried the diluted PVA glue printing with PLA and thought that the adhesion was less good that with blue tape degreased by wiping with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Have you been using the Alcohol?
Are you printing in PLA or ABS?
What's the glue in the glue stick?
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I have to confess - I'm a backslider. I've reverted to blue tape as my default, but ON GLASS. So nice to have a flat printing surface again.
The reason that I've reverted to tape is that I like to be able to see the condition of the surface that I'm expecting the PLA to adhere to. With the tape it's easy to see if a bit is missing or is not properly stuck down, not so easy with the diluted PVA.
I had two 6 mm thick glass plates cut. Very flat and dead convenient to loose two bulldog clips and slip a completed print out of the machine and immediately clamp an ready prepared glass plate in place for the next print.
If I need a glossy bottom I'll use the diluted PVA - and I will try it with ABS, but, for the general run of PLA it's blue tape on glass for me.
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Only to uninstall and reinstall.
Mike.
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The trick seems to be printing it at around 280° - hot enough to get stellar layer adhesion despite using a cooling fan, and hot enough that the first layer of ABS bonds to the acrylic build platform and parts stick. It is important to get that first layer adequately smeared, however.
Honestly, it's hard getting the prints off of the bed at all... Still working on that part.
Nick,
Please update your ABS-without-heated-bed status. Sill going OK?
Still printing directly on the Acrylc?
No blue tape?
No Kapton tape?
Don't fancy trying to print directly onto my Acrylic plate as it's warped. I'm now printing PLA onto blue tape covered 6 mm thick glass clamped to the Acrylic plate. or with diluted PVA adhesive instead of blue tape.
Mike.
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Aah! Thanks for the tip.
I've printed several via Slic3r at 1x and then tried at 1.6x but that didn't slice properly,
Just tried at 1.6x with Cura 13.04 (which was already on my machine) and it turned out perfectly.
The hinge is loose. Those I printed at 1x with Slic3r the hinge was 'seized' and had to be gently 'unfrozen'.
Might try some smaller ones...
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Note that the butterfly model is quite horrible, with all the internal flat holes.
Sure is.
Very first time I've needed to use an alternative to Cura.
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Maybe I'll try kisslicer this weekend. Or an older version of Cura.
Recommend that you try Slic3r - worked for me.
How are you guys handling PLA/ABS feeding from the spool
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I've designed a spool holder which may be of interest: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:179804
And also a variant of this that doesn't require tool: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189015