mgg942

I've designed a spool holder which may be of interest: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:179804 And also a variant of this that doesn't require tool: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189015

I've posted previously of my favourite tool for use on printed parts (a tapered hand reamer) but the tool that I'm using constantly on the Ultimaker itself is a long series 2mm hex screwdriver wrench. The handle is much the same length as the Ultimaker supplied tool, but the 'blade' is approx 40mm longer which makes it much easier to use most of the time. Also the handle is larger in diameter which I find another plus. The manufacturer is Turnigy and I bought mine from Hobby King: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11086__Turnigy_2mm_long_shaft_Hex_Screwdriver.html

I don't really have the problem you describe though I do see filament building up on the nozzle. When starting a print I make a point of turning the extruder wheel to extrude some material from the hot end just before the nozzle touches the print plate in the homing movement. This collects most of the filament build up.

Just for the record, Nick has advised on another forum that the Ubis hot end is now only available for 1.75mm filament.

Just to tempt fate I'm reporting that my (PLA only) E3D hot end has been running for weeks of daily use without a blockage. By far my longest run yet. I've not, consciously, make any changes. Might be that my theory of the entry edge of the stainless steel hollow stud shaving material is on the money and this edge is now smooth enough not to damage the filament. I'm not suggesting that the PLA has worn it away (guess that would take millennia) more likely that the technique that I use for cleaning - through drilling of the assembly with a long series 1/8" drill with only the nozzle and Bowden tube fitting removed - has finally dulled that leading edge. What d'you reckon?

I may have missed it but I didn't notice any mention of the material that you're using. From the numbers I deduce PLA?

Portability is a very strong point - I'll have a rethink!

Interesting project - didn't know about the Tantillus printer. Suspect that most Ultimaker owners will, like me, find the current build volume of 100mm x 100mm x 100mm unattractive.

I didn't make myself clear, sorry, I AM using an e3d nozzle.

I used the Ultimaker Aluminium block, thermocouple, and cartridge heater with the e3d nozzle. No changes to the electrics! If it's not too late I recommend making sure that the entry to the stainless steel threaded part is NOT a sharp edge as I think that otherwise it tends to shave material off the filament and cause jams. Also, if you can, chamfer the top the the 3.2 mm hole in the main body - where the filament enters from the Bowden tube to make initial hand feeding in of the filament less finicky..

Looking forward to those details!

I agree that it's far from essential for PLA. Obviously it depends on your experience with the UM hot end and to me the E3D has been money well spent for my so-far-PLA-only use. Not as 'perfect' as I'd hoped for, but I find it much easier to live with.

Really surprised by that comment Nick. I'd recommend it for PLA though I should stress that I am using the original Ultimaker Aluminium block, heater and thermocouple. I have retraction permanently enabled. I should also mention that, these days I only use DiamondAge PLA. Perhaps this hinges on one's experience with the Ultimaker hot end (mine was the the one that was standard immediately before Ultimaker 2). For me that clogged every week or so and was a real pain to clean. The E3D clogs less often and is much easier to clean now that I have a long series 1/8" drill and can clean all the way through with it from above removing only the nozzle and the fitting for the Bowden tube. At present I'm having a good run and haven't cleaned for several weeks while using the Ultimaker most days and some nights. My impression which may be total rubbish is that the Filament may get abraded by the leading edge of the stainless steel sleeve. If I was assembling a new E3D now I'd pay special attention to that edge and also chamfer the top edge of the 3.2 mm through hole in the Aluminium body. Mike. I

Took the plunge after a few days with the trial version. Now using the Nov 23 beta and enjoying it greatly. I have no hands-on background in CAD - apart from a few months using OpenSCAD - and have found MOI easy to pick up. The manual is clear (though not up to date with the beta) and the video tutorials by Tom Meeks excellent for a beginner like me.

Yes - I'm sure that cut to length is the way to go. I haven't processed ABS yet. I recall that one particular colour of DiamondAge PLA tended to break when I straightened it to feed into the Ultimaker extruder!