dree
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Posts posted by dree
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Manufacturers pretty much never tell you the actual diameter of the filament that you have.
Mine just did by email and pretty quick too and he's going to change the values on the website, now all their 3 mm filament tell 3.00, they are going to change that into 2.85 and 2.95, they sell two different 3 mm filament.
If that are the right dimensions than the rest is theory for me, and if I have trouble again in the future with the right filament thickness settings I know what to do
@Gr5 Interesting indeed, funny actually how we came to the right conclusion...
Dree
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In Cura there is a spot where you can enter the filament diameter.
i'm aware of that and I understand it's effect on the flow, I just had thinner filament than I thought so I had a wrong number there.
Dree
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Thanks,
After this success I also sent the manufacturer of the filament my last post and a link to this discussion, they replied very quick, seems that some filament I bought from them was not 3.00 mm but actually 2.85 so by giving extra flow we accidentally solved that mistake.
It looks like a beginners error of mine but in the extensive specifications of that filament it's also 3.00 so I think it's a mistake of them.
Next test will be with the right thickness settings and no extra flow.
groet Dree
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Hi,
Last night I had success :-P
I started with 125% flow and I forgot to put it back to 100% so the whole project printed at 125%.
Now the question is; was it the changing of color filament that made the trick or the changing of flow?
Foehnsturm mentioned that color can make the difference?
Is that so?
I mentioned in the opening post that sometimes the print is leaking, sometimes not, I buy my PLA with Plastic2Print, I had success with the dark blue both are "ultimate" same 0.75 kg spool.
The leaking orange (no more available) ones are on 1 kg spools it looks like another brand.
Is it just the color or the brand that causes difference in layer adhesion??
Dree
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Print of last night is still leaking were the bottom meets the shell :mad:
Further tests will be with more than 110% flow in that area and with another color filament.
But for now I’m going to do some other prints.
Dree
Edit:
For the next try I changed the design a bit, I lowered the inside bottom, the botom is now no more the whole foot thick but maches the wall thats 2 mm.
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So basically the FeedRate speeds up or slows down everything, thanks for the explanation, I wont touch it again, I print at Cura default speeds and have no desire to go quicker or slower.
The confusion was made by some lazy brain cells of mine that translated Fr into FlowRate :-P
I'm now starting up the initial project with my new learned skills, tomorrow news about that,
To leak or not to leak will be the question...
Dree
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Well, the Fr didn't help indeed… :shock:
Now I made a small amphora for testing but I made a mistake, I thought I made the walls and bottom 1mm thick but they are only 0.5 mm. Printing the whole thing with a 125% Flow, while it’s printing I see a lot of blobs already from over extrusion I think.
That was not a success, only the bottom and top cm are looking good but the bottom is not leaking, there is hope… Strange thing is that with the bad middle section the printer didn’t go round and round but acted more Parkinson- like, probably due to the thin wall. Maybe it’s better to take the 0.4 nozzle in account by designing a wall, E.g. 0.8 - 1.2 - 1.6 - 2.0 thick?
Then I made one with 1 mm thickness, printed the whole thing at 110% flow.
Print was better, some blobs on the inside from over extrusion.
Still leaking from two small holes, strange.
Then 1.5 mm thick wall and bottom.
Only 110 flow for the bottom this time to prevent over extrusion on the wall.
No more blobs, no more leakage on that one :-P
Dree
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No! Not feedrate
Ow :oops: I thought I tell what I do.... afin, I probably can trow away the amphora that is almost ready now...
I found the Tune menu with the Flow thing, is that the same flow I see in the Cura menu?
What does FeedRate do?
Dree
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Ok, I will try the Fr percentage on the Ulticontroller to 110% for the bottom and the dangerous part until its up to the walls.
Tomorrow results for that.
Dree
Edit, I will stick to my 0.12 layers gr5, keep on this topic and it makes you a specialist on water tight things..
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Hi,
Thanks for the quick responses, I try to show two things in one screenshot, the thickness of the bottom is the whole foot and that I designed the amphora as it is, already hollow.
I will try Gr5's infill trick, if I set the shell thickness to e.g. 200mm, should I leave the infill to 100%?
EDIT: I will also try to reduce layer height to 0.08.
But I am afraid it's leaking right between the bottom and the shell, Markus' option 3....
Dree
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Hi,
I try to print this but it’s leaking.
The walls of this amphora are 2 mm thick.
The print is good and looks strong and beautiful, I printed a few that were not leaking and a few that are, what is the trick?
Ever though I print PLA at 230 C it still looks like the plastic is not fusing together good enough.
Should I go even hotter?
Should I lower the fan speed?
What can I do?
Print Options
Shell thickness/bottom-Top 1 mm
Layer height 0.12 mm
Fill Density 100%
Temperature 230 C
Filament 3.00 mm
Print speed 50
Brim only, no support.
Groet Dree
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The problem with changing tape is that you have to remove the acrylic bed and this means you have to re-level the bed every time
After the first month or so I almost never have to re-level my bed anymore, I think now the last time was three weeks ago, I print every day, I always take my bed of to remove my prints because they are stuck very well to the bed and have to use some force to remove the print, by taking the bed of I don't put that force on the springs.
I use the original washers and springs, no problem there.
The only thing I did a month after building the UM was to screw down the bed half a cm and re adjust the Z limit switch.
Dree
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Hi,
I have the same "problem" but I do not see it as a problem anymore, I just renew the damaged tape after each print. That became a lot easier when I discovered that the wide tesa tape I use now (see picture) works just as well and it's a lot cheaper, I buy it at the praxis store but every other hardware store should have it too.
I also tried cheaper tape but that came off during printing.
Groet Dree
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There is an option in Cura for closing gaps, Expert --> Open expert settings --> Fix Horrible, you can choose between type A and B.
I use 123D Disign and sometimes parts won't join in that program and I also get gaps.
Dree
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I would also swap nozzles for a different filament, screw one out, the other one in, man does that in a minute or less.
Dree
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Where is a good place to post a .stl file for people to access?
You can use Youmagine or Dropbox, put your file in the public map and put a link here.
Dtree
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This is the way the infill is printed, pretty srtrong I think, this is 20% infill.
Groet Dree
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Hi,
It seems very possible to me.
I recommend learning some 3D designing and building your own plane so you have more control over strength and weight of your plane parts.
Maybe you can kick off with some sketchup C-130 models http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=C-130&styp=m&scoring=t&btnG=Zoeken but I don’t think these models are made for real flight.
Don’t underestimate the strength of PLA, the only thing I worry about is the engine… does it get hot? In that case you’re right about using ABS.
Heated chamber is indeed not actively heating itself.
Dree
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Hi,
It looks a lot like my problem, I solved it, you can read all about it http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2722-printing-big-thing-problem/
Another thing I did was install http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:133353, since then no more clogging, no more bad layers.
Groet Dree
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Thanks, I will try that next time.
Dree
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I know now that I have to remove the filament from the UM if I go sailing again...
Dree
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Hi,
My problem is/was that after a month at sea the filament that was in my machine had become brittle and broke of inside the tube. I also can imagine such a situation when running out of filament.
How do you retrieve the filament inside the tube?
I dismantled the extrusion head, quit a task….
Groet Dree
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Hi,
Thanks, I can wait a few months.
Sorry for my late reaction, I started this conversation but I’m on a ship, only internet connection in port.
Groet Dree
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Hi,
A few months ago I bought the Ultimaker, now I see there is the Ultimaker 2, pity but not a disaster, the only thing I wonder if there is a heated bed for the Ultimaker 1 available soon?
Groet Dree
Leakage
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
You must be absolutely right..
I want to thank everyone else here plus my filament supplier for helping me with the solution of this problem.
Groet Dree