Nicolinux

I will post it in a new thread, but I think illuminarti is also right. Maybe we need something more scientific than "add some weights and turn the knob to move filament a few notches". For my purposes though - to find out if my extruder is weaker than gr5's, it should suffice. But to make it comparable with other UM2's I would need to connect via an external tool and set it to extrude constantly at slow speed. Because the total length is limited in two areas. For one I don't want the filament to reach the head/nozzle because this will add additional pressure. And second, the filament shouldn't extrude too much because then the basket with the weights would hit the extruder. Ideally it should extrude a bit then wait for a few seconds so I can add snother barbell disk and then extrude again. Now, how would such a gcode snippet look like?

I am not very far. Basic things like sketching and pull/push are alright, but i'd like to get to the more advanced stuff. I didn't try to import anything, only create stuff from scratch.

Ok, I performed the test. Had some trouble sticking filament to something where I could add weights to, but finally found a solution: The blue plastic basket was an addon to my clotheshorse (german: Wäscheständer). In order to tie the filament to it, I guided the filament a few times around the basket handhold. Then I used my barbell disks to add weight. The extruder on the UM2 can hold at least 8.75kg (19.3 pounds). When moving the extruder (used the menu option maintenance->advanced->move filament), it can move at least 3.75kg (8.3 pounds) and definitelly slips at 5kg (11 pounds). It slipped after I added another 1.25kg (2.75 pounds) disk to the 3.75kg in the basket (and moved filament). I think we can rule out the extruder as the source of the problem here. Pulling with 8 pounds is enough to move filament from the stock spool holder for sure.

Maybe you should also perform the temperature test. If your sensor is off, it may print with the wrong temperature and the white filament could behave differently at lower temperatures.

Alright bought this one (http://www.ebay.de/itm/WD-40-1-x-400ml-Spraydose-WD40-Kriechol-WD-40-Rostloser-/370890842425).

As much as it sucks, but you might redo the test with filament in hand. Or at least for the last two segments to see if there is a difference.

I think you don't need a raft for this object. Use the gluestick first and wipe the glass with a damp sheet afterwards. Then set your heated bed to 70°-75° and it will stick like hell.

I'd repeat the test with the "retraction" version. I think this test is more of something you'd print often. I find prints without retraction unusual, but then again, it depends on what kind of objects you are printing.

Ok, I will perform this test too. Getting desperate here - the UM2, my favorite toy is broken and I am sad and lonely so I need it asap!

Ok, then I will get some WD40. But wait a second. Is this the stuff we are talking about? (link) If yes, as I am from Europe, like you - how would I get it? I am sure there are other brands and WD40 is just a famous brand name that is used as a synonym.

Sander, thanks for joining in. This issue is really troublesome for me because I can't print anything big or fast(er). Yesterday an easy print which was at 4mm^3/s filament volume failed due to skipping. And there are a few other users with the same problem. You are right. It looks like the problem lies with the curvature of filament. I tried almost all orientations I can think of. The only one which produced good results was cut filemtent, straightened by hand and hold in hand the whole time. Clearly not the solution I am aiming for. Besides, Simon (and others) are able to use the stock filament spool holder without problems. And they also used Ultimaker filament (and I guess no WD40 spray). Sadly I don't have faberdasherry filament here, just tons of Ultimaker filament And again, I am sure the filament is perfectly fine, and not the reason for my problems. Yes that's true. Printed the extrusion test (no retraction) yesterday at 250° and it failed only at the end. This was definitelly an improvement (link). I tightened the set screw as much as I could. It should be alright. But I just got an idea. I will draw a line on the top of the knurled bolt. The line will go over the bolt and the rod from the motor. Then after printing, if I see that this line is not uniform anymore, this must mean the knurled bold slipped around the rod. Sadly I didn't. But I will do now. One more info. The gap between the teflon part and the metal fitting is at 2mm now. I had it at 1.2, 1.5, 2.2 and 2.5 before. So here is my todo list (in no particular order) mark the knurled bolt and motor rod to see if it slips during printing connect the UM2 to see if I get temperature readings in other tools provision a temperature probe and compare the temperature of the nozzle take the head apart and check if filament passes through the teflon coupler freely put the filament on the stock spool holder

Yes I experienced it first hand. Filement was ground down, and stuck in the bowden tube. Also had to take the extruder apart to remove the mess and another piece of filament that got in there. Therefore I prefer skipping/slipping to grinding

Not at home. But I have friends (with benefits) I'll see if I can get a temperature probe or something alike. That's a very good idea. I will try it. Although if the temperature sensor is broken, it will report wrong values (or values that look normal). But combining this with an external temperature probe will provide ultimate conclusion. No I didn't do it conciously, I just check it for deformations and filament leftovers. I will take a look next time. Got used to the idea that I'll have to take apart the hotend again before I get to the bottom of this problem.

Wow this looks scary. But isn't it "fixable" somehow? Didn't try to run this thorugh netfabb basic, or meshmixer but maybe there is a chance to clean those models (if one really needs to).

Many thanks chopmeister! They are perfect for my needs. And you are right, I won't use PS for 3d printing. But to their defense - it was their first version. There is more to come for sure. There is however some appeal to creating nice 2d shapes in photoshop and extruding it in crazy ways. I don't know enough about other tools. So far I have used Autodesk Fusion 360 and OpenSCAD. Right now I am working my way through DesignSpark Mechanical (windows only, bah!).

Ok, but what could I try next? Power sander - where are you?

Ok, printed at 250° and it failed pretty late: But I am not sure what I learn from this. I mean, more heat, more viscosity and it gets easier for the extruder to push filament. Printing at 230° still fails earling proving that this extruder of mine is a lazy b****. One thing about terminology. I used the word "slipping" when I mean that the extruder produces a clicking sound and the knurled bolt snaps back letting filament back. This is oposed to filament grinding which does not produce any specific sounds and where the knurled bolt just turns and turns until the filament is grund down and won't push further through the bowden tube. Is this everyone else's understanding?

Alright guys. I can't cope with so much generosity. There are 4 .stl files. Each represents a letter. I'd be glad if it would be possible to fix or rebuild them so they can each print in one piece. Here is the download link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dh5isdxgfavb5gx/tanja_stl_orig.zip Many thanks, Stefan

Thanks. And no problem. This proves your printer is still very good. I have a nagging suspicion that I will try asap. Maybe the temperature sensor fails during a print and the temperature gets so low that the extruder has a really hard time to keep pushing filament. This would explain a lot. I will print your test at higher temperatures. Let's see what happens.

Wow, that's unexpected. But I guess when you're done tinkering with the Ultimaker at work, then at home you just want to have it print and not fool around.

If only brain<->brain ability-clone would already been invented... I could use a nice dose of CAD experience without investing the time to learn it

I was playing around with Photoshop CC and 3d layers. I have never done this before but wanted to try it because with the latest update Photoshop adds support for 3d printing. I took a text layer and extruded it. Then used a shape preset called bend center that gave me this convoluted form. I don't want to create it by hand - it was just a test and part of a prank for my friends So no big deal. If I'd be on a deadline for an important project, I will sure scream louder for help Thx anyway. Btw, Solidworks looks scary for someone who is new to CAD...

Hey guys, thanks but I don't want to cause too much trouble. I wanted to print the word "Tanja" and this was just the letter "A". So there are a bunch of others...

No, sadly not. I used a shape preset called "Bend Center". It does this effect for me. If I just extrude the object it would look like the letter "A". With the shape preset, it twists and cuts it along the z-axis. I guess it's just not possible with this effect. Another option might be to use Meshmixer to thicken the middle axis but this tool is too unprecise for such a task.

I tried it. Every combination there