Nicolinux

Damn, I was about to ask you how your bowden tube behaves, and this isn't the answer I hoped for The gap under the coupler, between the metal part and the coupler is at 1.2mm on mine. So maybe there isn't enough tension to keep the bowden tube in place.

Hi, I have some firmware feature requests. Center the head when moving filament manually. Right now the head moves to the back/left when moving filament manually and it is not as easy as it could be to snag of the extruded filament strands. Add the possibility to manually extrude after changing filament. The last step in the filament changing process continuously extrudes filament and the extruder starts skipping/grinding pretty quickly. This can't be good so I always keep this time to a minimum. But in order to extrude enough filament (especially when changing colors), you have to extrude manually and slowly so the extruder won't skip constantly. LED settings Make the "Glow when done" setting "additive". I would like to keep the lights on while printing and also have them glow when done. Possibility to name a filament preset. I know it might get ugly because implementing a keyboard with the wheel isn't fun. But right now having a bunch of CustomX presets isn't fun either. Maybe it would be possible to do it via Cura. Thanks.

Hi, here is one small request for the next Cura Mac version. The fastest way to load a model into Cura is to drag it from the desktop over the Cura icon. Would it be possible to also be able to also drag a model over the Cura window? Some mac tools also support this idiom and I almost always trip over it because I can't instinctively remember if Cura supports it or not. Not a big issue, just some small UX love. Daid, I have also an idea about the advanced setting "Infill speed (mm/s)". You write in the Cura manual that one can expect loss of quality of the outer shells because of pressure changes in the nozzle. But I think you could avoid it when infill speed is higher than printing speed. Since you know when infill will end for the actual layer, you could slow down and return to normal print speed _right before_ infil is finished. So the loss of quality due to nozzle pressure is contained in the (for the user invisible) infill area. If this improvement is feasible, it would definitely help reduce printing time and benefit many users. EDIT Gcode comments with print settings? They were pretty useful.

Hey guys, thanks for the diagnosis. I took a trip to the filament trashcan and found some of those tips that were cut off when changing filament. I think I might have the same issue as braddock, albeit not that extreme. Regarding the bowden tube play, do you mean the whole bowden tube with the white ring at the top of the head? If yes, than I have about 1-2mm play when I pull on it. A the bottom, right above the teflon piece, I see the bowden tube moving up and down: By the way, the long orange filament strand was attached to the tip that I cut off. I thought, one of these days this thing will get stuck inside the extruder, right above the knurled bolt and when I push new filament in it will move inside the head and definitely cause a clog...

No it means you are just old, or from Korea

The Blockbot has two sets that need to be printed. The first set (with underextrusion) was printed at 1mm full fan on. The second set at 5mm full fan on. I am not sure if it is related because I also changed filament for the second set. I will redo the test (and print another cool Blockbot set). Combing was enabled.

Underextrusion strikes again :( I printed the Blockbot (http://www.thingiverse.com/make:15641) scaled at 0.5 and one or two layers didn't print correctly. Later it went on flawlessly. I thought it might be the filament but the previous model (Low Poly Stanford Bunny - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:151081) worked perfectly. What the hell? George, if it is not too much to ask, would you print the blockbot (plate 1) at 0.5 with the orange filament? Then we'd have used the very same materials/hardware. Here are my print settings: layer height: 0.2 shell: 0.8 bottom/top: 1.2 fill: 15 speed: 40 temperature: 230 heated bed: 70 retraction distance: 5.5 retraction speed: 35 expert settings - fan full on at height: 1mm

In order to test that the other OctoPrint instances are started correctly, you could log into your octpi via ssh on different terminals and start the deamons manually. Then access each instance in a browser tab (by appending the port number - exactly like how you wrote it: 192.168.1.127:5001 and so on). To start the daemons manualli, change to your OctoPrint directory and run the commands from your config file: ./run -c /home/pi/.octoprint/SOBILongan.yaml --daemon start --pid /tmp/SOBILongan.pid Then in another ssh session/tab: ./run -c /home/pi/.octoprint/SOBIRambutan.yaml --daemon start --pid /tmp/SOBIRambutan.pid Then use the netstat command to list your open ports: netstat -tan|grep LISTEN

I am starting to believe it is a filament issue. Just printed the Iris Box (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8402) where the base is about 65mm tall. No sign of underextrusion. Just a perfectly smooth surface. This time I printed with pearl white filament. I do intend to print a large object with my red filament. We will see how that goes.

Ok, could be. I have printed a few things since then and this problem didn't re-appear. But these were short prints (under 5 hours). I'll do a +10 hr print soon - let's see how this will work out.

What do you mean? Can you print with OctoPrint on an UM2 without changing the gcode flavor in Cura?

@braddock: One day... I'll be so happy to read a complete howto how you guys paint these things. I know for you it is "just" something like "I scrambled some stuff I had laying at home and mixed it together", but this is still a closed book for me... It looks fantastic. I'd love to see what friends and family would say to a gift that looks like this

The UM2 supports a new style of gcode (UltiGCode) that OctoPrint doesn't support yet. So in order to use it now you have to switch to regular gcode in Cura. (Menu -> Machine -> Machine settings -> GCode Flavor). I have not tried it yet myself, I am using OctoPrint only for its webcam streaming for now.

I don't think there is one be all end all feature that would change everything for fdm printers. Unless you are able to increase speed drastically while retaining print quality or something alike. With the Replicator it is the package that matters. We are nerds, we care about details, intricate features and superior accuracy. But normal people who need a 3D printer will look at the Replicator and say - Yes, it looks alright, has tons of features and prints resonably accurate. Sold. The question is - do you want to cater to those "normal" people? (right now those who need a 3D printer are by no means "normal" refering to the typical consumer) If yes, you compete with Makerbot and they just upped their game with the new anouncements. Yes some features are silly and only nice to have, but when you get over print accuracy and printer tuning, nice to have features start to become very interesting

To me it looks like this starts the second instance. Of course you'd have to have ~/.octoprint2 (with standard settings for the second printer). So you can use one base directory of your OctoPrint installation and when you start the daemon, point the second one to a new port and another directory with octoprint settings (~/.octoprint2).

Hey Robert what's your affiliation with Ultimaker? Do you work for them? @drayson: Countermeasures would be to get a good grasp on the european market. Also a smaller and safer Ultimaker for schools would be clever. Oh and adding Ultimaker drivers to Mac OS X would be even better

I don't think it is possible to have multiple printers with one OctoPrint instance yet. There is this issue from eight months ago: (https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/113). Gina (the dev) suggests run multiple OctoPrint instances...

@ChrispCreator: How did you adjust your extruder? Do you have a photo? @gr5: Yes I normally do save .gcode files but I was hacking at Cura to implement some kind of autoupload to my wiki after slicing and this disturbed my normal workflow @illuminarti: Combing was enabled but even then - why at the top, why not earlier? @braddock: Look what I found at IKEA, Lazy Ingrid

Well it is not that you don't compete if you dont want to. If there are others who are seemingly better than you, competition already started. Look at the Makerbot models. They are all (except for the mini) prosumer devices - already competing with the Ultimaker. If I'd never heard of Ultimaker and Makerbot before and would want to buy a printer in this price range - I'd would have bought the new Replicator in a heartbeat. Not only because of the soft features but also because of the overall impression with their product range. Again, this is if I would have never heard of them before. Knowing how things stand, I'd buy an Ultimaker over and over again. But all in all I wonder if Makerbot strategy is the way to go. As to not focus so much on finer print quality but those soft features that make life daily printing life easier. From my limited experience with the Ultimaker(s), printing resolution becomes less of an issue over time when you get used to it. 0.2mm layer height is my default setting for comon household items. And I print at 0.1 only for gifts and stuff I want to display somewhere in my apartment. Finer prints have all their drawbacks like a much longer print time. What good does a fine print do if there is a big chance that the last few layers will be messed up and will ruin the entire model (visually)? With this still young technology "fiddling with things" is much better and easier done at 0.2

Nick, you can configure most of this things via the interface. Click on the settings wrench a the top right. Alternatively you can place it in the home directory where you installed OctoPrint. If you use Linux and went with the stanrdard pi user, then it is ~/.octoprint/config.yaml (or more verbosely: /home/pi/.octoprint/config.yaml).

So CES, totally the best time of the year to expand your product range and not fix old issues with existing products Makerbot released three new models. Didn't change the printing resolution but did add really cool "soft features" to their printers. Webcam, App for remote management, enclosed filament spool(1.75), swapable printing head with filament detection... (link). The way I see it, now that Makerbot is backed by its much bigger brother (and with enough venture capital before that), they will sadly become the standard for desktop 3D printing. Their printers are inferior to others regarding printing quality (especially Ultimaker) but this won't hinder normal people to buy them. With enough "soft features", ultra precise clean prints will be less of an issue. Look at other technologies, that's the way it works. I am not too optimistic for Ultimaker now that I see how fast Makerbot moves. But ok, this is only an transitional period. The "real" game starts when traditional printer manufacturers enter the desktop printer market. HP already stated that the work on it. I hope Ultimaker finds a spot where they can use their printing quality advantage. Kick it up a few notches folks!

Hm, ok. This was my longest print yet (5 hours). I don't want to repeat it just for the heck of wasting filament, but since the first model didn't come out right, I might do it anyway. I did print another one before, only flatter hence a much shorter print. The underextrusion was there only at the top and only on the center area (and very much less pronounced). Sadly I don't have the gcode file anymore :/ But I think I can reconstruct the print settings. I will also make sure to load the new gcode file in Repetier Host. Their print preview ist pretty accurate. If the problem is mechanical I'll will try to reproduce the underextrusion at the same height. If that's the problem, then it is definitely the z-screw. Another question - how do you guys clean the nozzle on the UM2? I had the luck to not ever experience a plug on the UM1 (but then again, I didn't have it for a long time).

@gr5: Funny name for a rotary table Oh, I have a spare ball bearing from the UM1, maybe I could print one. @braddock: I'd rather not cut the filament. What if the print fails? My prints aren't too long right now so I'd have relatively short pieces of filament lying around. @gadgetfreak: I am already using OctoPrint just for the webcam streaming feature. But the resolution isn't good enough to spot underextrusion. But maybe I can spare my iPhone for some hours and use it in combination with the webam to watch both pieces. However something tells me it isn't this problem. If you look at the first and second picture, the underextrusion (or whatever it is) was very pronounced on the both arms. Why not the center area? Is there a weird relation to extrusion and x/y movement close to the outer edges?

Daid responded to a question of mine where a similar patter emerged when I activated "spiralize contour". It could be a software problem (link).

Ok, thanks for the info. I'll test this corner case scenario with the next version.