3dguy

I totally agree. When the ABS Bed choice is made it should completely turn off the hot-end. It makes sense that the ABS 1 choice does not turn off the bed since you want the bed hot before the hot-end.

Ok, I was thinking it was the other way around. That makes total sense though.So it is working perfectly then, boy do I feel stupid. Thanks for the information.

Hello, I just finished building my heated bed and putting my new build platform on my UM 1 and upgraded my firmware and the bed heats up fine. I noticed an issue though when I go to the option to Preheat ABS, "ABS Bed", the Fan comes on at full (255) right from the start and the bed starts to heat steadily, however the Hot-End stalls at 25 C. If I choose ABS 1 under the preheat option both the Hot-End and the Bed heat together. Is it a known issue or just an issue with the firmware the builder made for me. Should I rebuild the firmware? I have a print going now and is seems to be printing fine. Thanks

Just turning the UM on to upgrade the firmware was bad enough, when it came time to plug in the power for the heated bed, I was ready to run for the extinguisher . I wanted to get micro adjusters since I first got my UM in 2012. These were actually not overly expensive. My setup is going to be a little different. My aluminum plate is actually going to be the baseplate and then a thermal barrier of 1/16" Ceramic Fiber Board which can withstand temperatures well above 1300 degrees F sustained, then the PCB Heater, then Clear Ceramic Glass is the print surface. I am drawing up an aluminum Z Stage that I would like to get made if it will not be overly expensive. The problem is that where I live the humidity changes constantly and I have to re-level my bed after every print often times. Adjusting the leveling screws on the fly as it is printing. Thanks for the links and extra information for the PID control. I will definitely have to take advantage of that.

Success! :-P Thanks for all the help. So far everything is working like a charm. The bed heats up and the LED works to signal the bed is on, and shuts off when the bed is off. I can't test it out yet as far as printing, I have to wait until next week when my new aluminum bed is finished being milled. I also need to remove the screws and springs for the bed level system and drill new holes for my new system with microadjusters where the bed rests on the head of the adjuster in a small recess in the bottom of the aluminum.

Okay, I have the electronics hooked up per the wiring diagram, the SSR is in place with a heat-sink. I just have to muster up the courage to plug in the power and turn the printer on. I must say I am just a little nervous.

The PCB has a spot for 2 LEDs, one for either polarity, I soldered both on so 1 of the two should work either way, at least according to the manufacturer, but I know they won't work without the resistor so I really hope it arrives today. The new fans I ordered are from the same manufacturer as the original fan and they have nearly the same ratings so I hope the new ones work. The stock fan is 12v .10A and the new fans are 12v .14A.

I didn't even see those, diodes they are really tucked away under those Darlington transistors. Thanks for the further explanation about low side and high side. I will go with your original setup. I almost had it put together last night accept I ran out of 14 gauge wire. I appreciate the tip on the silicone wire, that stuff is a lot easier to work with then 14 gauge auto wire. Can the diode be insulated or have heat shrink applied to it or PTFE tubing without effecting its operation? I have like 24' 8" of PTFE 1/32" ID left. The diode seems like it could be a shock hazard or worse with it's exposed leads. I soldered the tiny surface mount LEDs to the PCB now just waiting for the surface mount thick film 1k resistor to arrive so that the LEDs do not get fried. It is the last piece I need to finish the PCB, hoping it arrives today. I ordered two new fans the same day I ordered the resistor, the fans came from China and got here snail-mail before the resistor which is only coming from Texas, also snail-mail.

Does this look like a proper connection for an SSR for the heated bed? So would the diode in this one protect the UM1 electronics? I based this connection off of a combination of one that anon4321 helped me with and the one from the UM1 wiki with the regular relay.

I will have to check those out. Thanks

Does anyone here have experience using Deans Ultra Connectors? I was thinking about using them to make a quick disconnect point for my Heated Bed build I am doing so that I could remove the PCB without having to de-solder all the connections if I ever needed to. They seem hefty enough.

Thanks for the suggestion, luckily there is an RC store a mere 8 miles from me. I'm headed there now. That will be a lot better than the 14 AWG auto wire I was thinking about picking up, that would have been very stiff.

That chart looks a lot more detailed than the one I was referencing. Yes I am using the 12v 16A power supply. I was confusing the ampacity capability of the relay with what the actual ampacity of the circuit will be.

What gauge wire should I use 10, it is rated for 30 amps or 12 which is rated for 20 amps?

Thanks for the information. I take all responsibility. I have put together small electronics kits before but never anything with a power supply over a 9 volt battery, and never anything with relays and a diode like the one that came with the relay. I just want to try my best not to fry my electronics and get the heated bed going.

anon4321, Which poles on the 3950 SSR correspond to the poles on an automotive relay? Does the (-) from the Power supply connect to 4, the (-) from the PCB connect to 3, and the two from the Ultimaker board to 1 and 2? Did you use the diode with your relay connection?

anon4321, Thanks for the link to Phidgets for the 3950 SSR. I went ahead and ordered one with the optional heat-sink, shipping was almost as much as the relay, I am impatient and want it in the next 2 days so I can try to build the heated bed while I'm off. I couldn't resist buying the HELLA 965400031 Black 24V 30 Amp Mini ISO SPST Relay with Bracket from Amazon either, I got it for free and only had to pay for overnight shipping, $3.99, I figured it couldn't hurt to have a backup.

Do you think that this relay will work? http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/relays/mini-iso-relays/work-lamp-category-1/electrics-product-1/

Thanks, I'll take a look at the wiki again. So I should solder a Jumper Wire connecting the two + and another Jumper Wire to the two - and then solder a wire to one of the + and one of the -, that should not be to bad. Actually the 4.7K resistor was the easy part I did that several days ago. The hardest part about it was de-soldering the through holes for the resistor, it took several attempts as the solder wick did not work, I had to use a solder sucker. It is this relay, it will not come up with a normal search. Radio Shack's search is horrible. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762

Ok, so now the diagram is starting to make sense. Let me see if I have this right. 1) Solder one of the leads from the MK1 to one of the power supply's 4 PIN Female Connectors (+) pins. 2) Solder the other lead from the MK1 to the #87 pole of the 12V DC 40A Relay. 3) Solder a connection to the corresponding (-) lead of the power supply's 4 PIN Female Connector. 4) Solder that negative lead to the #30 pole of the relay. 5) Solder a lead to the #85 pole of the relay. 6) Solder a lead to the #86 pole of the relay. 7) Connect the free ends of the leads from the #85 and #86 poles to the Hot Bed Connector on the UM-Board. (Does it matter which lead goes to which screw on the Hot Bed Connector?) 8) Solder or use a 3 PIN connector to connect the two leads from the thermistor to the Outer two connectors on the "Temp-3" connector on the UM-Board. 9) Make sure the bottom of the MK1 PCB is insulated from the aluminum base plate. I think I will do this with both Kapton Tape and Ceramic Fiberboard. Does that sound correct?

My power supply came with a 4 PIN Female din like jack and I was wondering if only two of the four poles are used? They are P1(+), P2(+), P3(-) and, P4(-). I uploaded a diagram of the connector, here: Would I use P1(+) and P3(-), or P2(+) and P4(-), or does it matter, or are all 4 used?

Thanks, that part was confusing. The description on Amazon wasn't clear to me. I found the correct relay for sale at Radio Shack and will pick it up hopefully Sunday. Now I know what poles gr5 and others were referring to in some of their posts, 30, 87, 85, 86. When my relay was labeled 1, 2, 3, 4 I was lost.

I am finally getting back to building my heated bed upgrade since I first enquired about it in September of 2013, I got a bit derailed for awhile. I believe I have all the parts I need: a MK1 PCB with 16" leads a 9.5" x 9.5" x 1/4" Aluminum Plate (may be a bit thick) a 9.5" x 9.5" x 3/16" Ceramic Glass Plate Ceramic Fiber Board for thermal insulation between PCB and aluminum a 4.7k resistor (on Ultimaker Board already) a 100K Axial Thermistor a Fotek SSR-40 DA Relay a 12V 16A Brick power supply a 4 pin female power receptical Surface Mount LEDs for the PCB Surface Mount Resistor for PCB (still en route) Clips to hold glass in place. Is this everything I need? If you don't mind, I have a few questions about the wiring connection for a heated bed. What gauge wire to use for the thermistor, is 20 or 22 gauge good? How do I wire the PCB to the Relay, Power Supply, Ultimaker Board and the 4 Pin female power connector? I have not done any wiring since 1982, I am just a tad rusty. Is there a recommended max weight limit for the z stage? I am not sure if my parts will be to heavy and I am thinking about getting a new stage made, if it is not cost prohibitive. I have uploaded a few pictures of the parts and the relay diagram:

I just finished a print from the SD card and the status cleared after the print completed.

It is the original with the v2 hot-end.