3dguy

I just upgraded to Cura 14.03 a few days ago and upgraded my firmware also and now the Printing Status on the Ultimaker and the Pronterface in Cura hang even after the print job is complete. The status in the pronterface never reached the end even after the job was done and the program locked up causing me to force close the application via the Task Manager. I have to shut down the Ultimaker to clear the printing status on the printer. I am currently printing via USB connection, I will try printing from the SD card on the Ulticontroller to see if it still hangs.

Thanks for the wiki link, it is informative. I have a thermistor, would you recommend using it or a thermocouple? If a thermocouple, what type?

Thanks for the replies. Could you suggest a specific relay to use to connect the PCB to the Ultimaker? The Wiki states that a protection diode is recommended, do you know what kind of diode? I just started to get into electronics last year so this stuff is still very new to me.

Daid, I am definitely interested in this upgrade, even though I am currently in the process of putting my own heated bed together. How about the upgraded print head hot-end of the Ultimaker 2 for the Ultimaker 1?

I am about to put together a heated bed plate for my Ultimaker and I am unsure how to control the temperature of the PCB for the bed Plate. 1. Should I connect to the Ultimaker with a relay? 2. Should I connect to an external controller? If so which type? I have a 8.5" x 8.5" PCB Heatbed MK1, a 9.5" x 9.5" x 1/4" Aluminum Plate, a 9.5" x 9.5" x 3/16" piece of High temp Ceramic Glass, a Thermistor, a12v external Power Supply, and Ceramic Mill Board to insulate between the heated components and a acrylic plate to mount it to the z-stage, and Kapton Tape. I am open to either way. I am just trying to figure out which way provides the best and safest connection for me and the Ultimaker.

I would love to test it. I am a very inexperienced user who is finally getting a nice quality print after many issues, kind of getting bored now, need to introduce some new potential bugs, ha! (I could never actually get bored with this thing). Question: Should the g-code end have a retraction command to aid in avoiding nozzle plugs or is that a bad idea?

Fixed it! It was actually a plug in the nozzle. The plug was a little over 1/4" of White ABS that I used to stop the leaking of plastic from the heater block. I must say it worked really well, blocked the whole dang head, :eek: . I took off the nozzle after heating it to 250 and then while holding the nozzle in needle nose pliers proceeded to heat the nozzle over a candle and used a sewing needle (pin) to work the softened plug out. Trying a .06 detail print of one of the calibration blocks as a test print. It is looking really good so far, but now getting what sounds to be bearing noise from the print -head. Fix one issue and find another, good thing I like to trouble shoot and test things, yum, brain candy!

The ABS just arrived yesterday afternoon and I opened it just before putting it into the printer.

That did not work either. I guess I will have to try and take it apart.

I will give it a try. It figures that the first and only time I try ABS to stop the black sludge from coming out the hot-end and messing up my prints it clogs the print-head. How do people print with ABS? Is this just a fluke?

The print is coming loose from the tape. The alcohol is 91% solution. Scotch 9020, or 2090? I have an even bigger issue now. The hot-end was leaking a viscous black fluid onto my prints so I followed the instructions in the wiki to remove the PLA and run some ABS through the hot-end. So the black fluid has stopped but now nothing will extrude through the hot-end. I have tried to heat the hot-end to 245-250 and push some PLA through but it has not worked.

These prints are looking very nice! I am still having issues with my prints coming loose from the bed and curling when I try to just use the blue tape wiped down with isopropyl alcohol. I might have to try using photo mount spray adhesive lightly again.

So far it is looking good 10 minutes in and still going. Thanks for the help!

Trying that now thanks for the suggestion.

For the last two days when I try to print I am getting a Max Temp Error on the Ulticontroller Display and the Printer stops and the Print-head cools down, Confusing! I am trying to print PLA at temps between 210 and 225. This problem just started on Monday 08/05/2013. Any ideas?

I found the problem, some of the filament melted in the Bowden tube, it must have got to close to my light fixture. So the machine is actually working fine it was just some bad, stupid luck of having a infrared light to close to the machine. I will try to heat it up and pull it out. Boy do I feel stupid right about now. :oops:

Yes thanks to your tip I got the extruder closed properly, and after the initial closing it works a lot easier. There was resistance and it started to push the Bowden tube out of the extruder assembly. I tried to turn the extruder by hand but nothing pushed through. I will give it another try though.

I tried using alcohol but it did not work for me, it would print about 2mm and then break free and I would have to cancel the print. I think my bed was staying to cold. I will try the tape and alcohol again, I bought an infrared heat lamp and shine it on the bed to warm up the tape. Unfortunately my printer is out of commission after one test print. The PLA will not extrude any more. The temperature is fine but nothing comes out. It is like the PLA expanded and is now stuck in the nozzle and/or brass pipe or Bowden tube and I have no idea as to how I can fix this without completely taking apart the print head and heating up in a pot of water. I'm not even sure If I can get it apart. I tried to heat the unit up to 250 per tech support but it just bubbled a little bit and nothing came out. There is what looks like melted PLA on top of the aluminum block.

Finally got the printer doing a test print. It is looking pretty good; printing the Robot that comes with Cura. It is printing on normal. On my last several attempts the print would break loose from the bed and I would have to cancel, I finally figured out how to keep the print in place; I sprayed the Blue Tape covered bed with a light coat of Scotch 3M Photo Mount, photo-safe adhesive. It is working like a charm. :-P I just need to make some more adjustments to the axes before I try a fine detail print. Thanks for all the help!

Is this the Darlington Transistor in this image?

Thanks for the information on the transistor I am going to run to radio shack to get some new ones if they have them. I just started to get into electronics last year so I am still mediocre with them but learning more everyday. I have built a few 3 digit counter electronic kits and my soldering is fair. Is the Darlington Transistor just a de-solder and re-solder operation? I am talking with tech support now discussing the issue but wouldn't mind learning how to replace the transistor. I did level the printing bed similar to the way in your tutorial before I tried to print but I think my extruder tension arm is not locked into place like it should be, I am having trouble getting the piece with the tension screw close enough to the body to let the arm go to the bottom of the slot and push down into position. Thanks for posting that tutorial, I will redo it again following it step by step. I never thought about the bed settling but it makes perfect sense, it sits on springs.

Yes. I do have an Ulticontroller. I was trying to actually start a print of the carry handle that comes with the Cura software as a rough test on low quality to see if the extruder and heater were working. I think I still need to adjust my extruder feed mechanism properly. The stick up part is not in place properly. I can't get the two prongs to go back far enough to let the stick slide down. I am going to have to readjust it.

Thanks for the reply and information. I edited my original post because I accidentally stated left limit switch when it is actually the right limit switch that does not work. The machine homes just fine, I am glad that works as it should. I preheated the print-head to 210º and the fan still does not come on. I tried selecting cool down from the ulticontroller and the fan still does not come on. When the limit switches are hooked up as they should be, the Cura first run wizard ask me to press the right limit switch to continue, but it does nothing. If I swap the cables with another limit switch it tells me to check my limit switches. The extruder motor started working after I reinstalled the cura drivers but the fan still does not work and nothing is being extruded but little globs here and there. So I am making a little progress.

I just got my kit last Sunday and assembled it by Wednesday only to find that it is not totally functioning. When I power on the printer the X, Y, and Z axis motors all function as does the heater, the cooling fan under the printer and the Ulti-Controller, however, the extruder motor does not turn, the fan on the print-head does not work, and the right front limit switch (end stop) does not function. I tested the extruder motor connected to another controller head and it functions normally. I also connected the print-head fan to external power supply and the fan tested good as well. I also tested the wire continuity for the fan and motor connectors and they tested fine as well. Am I missing something else or does it appear to be a PC board or Arduino issue? Waiting to hear from support on my support tickets but I am Jones-ing to test this printer out.