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mtbr

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Posts posted by mtbr

    Bad Z-Quality after heated bed upgrade on UM1

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    It's surprising where Cura sometimes decides to stop a line, travel somewhere else, print there and then travel back and continue the line... especially with infill... it can be in the middle of a wall.

     

    I've had another look at the toolpath in the layer view of cura. The walls (or at least the outer shells of them) are printed as straight lines as I've expected, but the walls are crossed by the printhead several times when it moves between other walls. I guess that material is wiped off at the wall when the nozzle crosses the wall. So this might be the explanation for the blobs/knobs.

    The other issues must wait some days until I can start testing. Thanks for your help up till now :) !

     

    Bad Z-Quality after heated bed upgrade on UM1

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Imagine you put the weight on top of the wooden z stage, it would have gone down even more. If you put weight on the z stage, you should do it in between the z bars:

     

    Hi, the reason why I've put the weihgt on the stage, was not to tweak my results, but to measure an elastic vertical deformation of the platform due to bending of the platform. Thus, when I would have put the weight between the rods, there wouldn't have been any vertical deformation, as the platform is rock solid in that area.

     

    The blobs are artefacts from the strong stringing you have.

     

    I've added a new picture, where I've marked the blobs/knobs:

    http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_1414/gallery_17653_1414_211132.jpg

    in the middle of the wall there should be no reason for stringing, just a straight line of filament?!

     

    Bad Z-Quality after heated bed upgrade on UM1

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I have the banding problem on my UM2 which is the origin of the HBK. I don't know exactly what you mean with the first post being written in 2013. If you mean the link in the first post of my banding thread, it's a thread on the general nature of horizontal banding which was also a problem sometimes on the UMOs.

     

    Sorry, I messed the links up, instead of your thread I read the previous thread started by Nick Foley here:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3755-horizontal-banding-elimination-thread/

    Now I've also read you thread, your issue looks a bit similar to mine.

    My theorie is, that with the (maybe worst case) settings that I've used the bed was induced to an elastic z-movement, thus resulting in the artefacts of the riffled structure (post #6). I've checked the stiffness of the bed by putting a mass of about 1 kg on the front of the platform, which effected the platform to elastically lower about 1mm. Thus, 50 g would force the platform to lower about 0,05 mm (half the layer size I used) - if applied on the front of the platform. I can imagine, that when wiping the melted filament off while printing, a changing z-forze (due to a changing upper surface of the previous layer) is applied on the platform, thus resulting in a z-movement of the platform. This may be an explanation for the riffled structure, but I don't know if it explains the other z-artifacts.

    Unfortunately I'm quite busy the next days, so I can't test it right away.

    Any ideas where the knobs (post #5) could come from?? Maybe this is the key?

     

    Bad Z-Quality after heated bed upgrade on UM1

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Is the new platform rigid? Is the glass secure? Something is appears to be shifting during your print.

     

    as rigid as it was designed to be - in my opinion it is a bit too flexible, yes and yes

    @Dim3nsioneer:

    The problem is not completely unknown with this heated bed: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6907-horizontal-banding-on-um2/

    Very interesting link. Was this a beta version of the heated bed kit? The first post was from 2013. My banding looks quite similar. My feeder works perfectly as far as I can judge it (the imprint in the filament looks perfect). I've noticed that the new stage on the one hand has no play and runs absolutely smoothly, but on the other hand it is not very rigid in z-direction. The aluminium table seems to be quite flexible in z-direction (my taste). But I'm sure that it has been tested and should work well as it is. Anyway, i will try to reinforce it and see if it helps.

    Things you may check:

    - Does the z stage run up and down smoothly?

    yes, absolutely

    - Does the z nut have some significant play?

    not at all

    - Does the fan blow directly onto the nozzle?

    no, and I have not changed the fan or the fan duct.

    - What do the walls look like when printed without fan?

    I have to check, but I would be surprised if it would help as my cooling setup worked well before the upgrade.

    - How stable is the nozzle temperature (some colors, including white, are more sensitive to the temperature).

    If the displayed temperature on the ulti controller is correct, it is absolutely stable

    - Compare the layers: do some show effects of under- or over-extrusion?

    I can't see under-extrusion but some parts look (to me) like over-extrusion and there is much stringing although retraction was on (original retraction settings of cura). Really strange are also the knobs that come out of the walls - I've added pics 4 and 5 to my gallery. I haven't experienced that before.

    http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_1414/gallery_17653_1414_3461474.jpg

    http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_1414/gallery_17653_1414_3401690.jpg

     

    Other possibility:

    Z motor driver overheating?

     

    mhm interesting idea. I would wonder why, as my Z-stages runs really smooth. For the sake of completeness, my board version is 1.5.6.

    Daid, do you have an Idea about my bed-temp issue?:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3755-horizontal-banding-elimination-thread/

     

    Bad Z-Quality after heated bed upgrade on UM1

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hey guys,

    I've installed the UM heated bed upgrade to my UM original which works, except this problem:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2995-heated-bed-for-the-ultimaker-1/?p=73471

    At the moment I'm experiencing a really bad quality in z-direction:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/1414-z-quality/

    The walls are running straight into x- or y-direction.

    Some of the x-walls are ok, some are really bad.

    Also some of the y-walls are ok and some are really bad.

    My settings were:

    faberdashery filament (which worked really well before)

    200 °C nozzle temp

    0.1 mm layer hight

    40 mm/s print speed

    2.85 mm filament diameter

    100 % flow

    also the nozzle size is ok

    Any ideas where I should start to search?

    Edit:

    the hight of the walls is 20 mm

     

    Heated bed for the Ultimaker 1

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I believe on of the problems with older boards was the connector not being up to spec. If that is the only problem, I think that could be fixed by soldering another to the PCB. I am not too scared of that.

     

    this would realy be no big deal.

    I guess/hope that there will be an official answer soon :)

     

    Filament Empfehlungen

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Eigentlich nicht, ich entscheide je nach Druck und mechanischen Anforderungen, aber meist zwischen 180 und 200° und 30 bis 50 mm/s auf meinem UM1.

    Wirst es nicht bereuen. Besonders die Farben sehen extrem geil aus.

     

    Filament Empfehlungen

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Kurzfassung: Das Faberdashery Filament (bisher nur in weiß gedruckt) hat mich in allen Belangen derart begeistert, dass ich dem Hersteller schon eine Email mit Lob schicken wollte - war bisher aber leider zu faul :). Sowohl das Oberflächenfinish als auch die mechanische Beanspruchbarkeit ist allererste Sahne!

     

    PLA in bunt gedruckt

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Schöne Farbkombination! Hast du die Enden mit dem Feuerzeug erwärmt und zusammengeschmolzen?

    Ich hab diese Woche auch zum ersten Mal das Faberdashery Filament (weiß) ausprobiert und ich bin begeistert. Die Oberfläche sieht echt genial aus, konnte kein Problem bezüglich Delaminierung bemerken und das Weiß ist absolut rein. Auch die Deckfläche und die Bodenfläche auf Blue Tape haben ein sehr sehr schönes Finish. Bin jetzt richtig froh, dass ich ordentlich Material bestellt habe :).

     

    3D Modelle automatisch vereinfachen?

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Hallo, ich meine davon mal gehört zu haben, mir fällt aber spontan jetzt auch nur netfabb ein. Ich glaube dort muss man die Fehlstellen aber auch manuell dicht machen? Hab es selbst noch nie ausprobieren müssen, da die von mir gedruckten Maschinenbausachen bereits perfekt aus dem CAD kommen.

    Edit: am Besten mal auf englisch nach den Begriffen "automatic stl repair" suchen. Zumindest Google spuckt da schon mal ein bisschen was aus. Keine Ahnung ob da auch was kostenloses dabei ist.

     

    Faberdashery in Deutschland bestellen, evtl. Sammelbestellung für Berlin?!

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Kurzer Zwischenstand: Bestellt wird am Sonntag.

    Im Moment teilen sich meine Wenigkeit und teddy04 die Versandkosten, welche somit schonmal bei erträglichen 7,50 Pfund liegen :).

    Wenn sich noch jemand findet, der das Material bei mir abholen möchte, wäre das natürlich super, dann wird der Versand pro Kopf noch günstiger.

    Ich kann auch noch 2 oder 3 weitere Sendungen mit der Post verschicken, nachdem ich mich für teddy04 sowieso in die Schlange stelle.

    Also, noch ist Zeit, wer was haben möchte schickt mir eine PM.

    Lg

     

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