mark-hale
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Posts posted by mark-hale
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well that's my plans ended for this evening. Looks like I have a problem with the build plate now. Checked the connections but constant reading of 20c :(
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Hi,
Think my build plate has failed, constant reading of 20c all connections solid.
Just had a look in the Shop pages but nothing listed for the UM2.
Any ideas?
Just had an update from Ultimaker - heated bed is available in the shop just not currently showing up.
Thumbs up to the Support and Sales team, as usual very prompt
Cheers
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Hi Mark, long time no see! How are you doing?
Great thanks, hope all is well with you.
Had some interesting results last night on the retraction issue I'm getting. Interested to hear any comments on this.
After totally cleaning the nozzle again, I started to experiment with the feed unit on the rear since I noticed it was doing some serious chewing on removal and presumably whilst printing. The white indicator was at the very top, which as I understand is correct for the version of UM2 I have, it was one of the very early ones. I decided to move this down and ended up running a print whilst this was set to the middle, I also ran the print with no retraction.
The first few layers went really well, however as per usual in these cases when my back was turned and I went to bed, the print failed so when I checked it this morning the print head had just stopped and no filament was flowing. I then reset the tension to its original setting and started the print again but this time with retraction on. This time I noticed that the filament was feeding perfectly and I managed to get a successful print.
I then decided to kick of another print, sadly having just called in over lunch, I found the print had failed although it seems this is as a result of the bed which was no longer hot. Hopefully the bed will just be a loose connection and I can then try the print again.
So all being well I am wondering if the following may have been the cause for my under extrusion issues.
1. I used XT filament and found that despite trying a variety of heat settings I couldn't get a reliable print, plus it seems to clog more than standard PLA
2. Although I cleaned the nozzle out using the Atomic Method, I think its called - so heat to 220, insert and cool to 90, perhaps there was still some residue in the nozzle as very soon after, despite an initial perfect print with PLA, I then started to experience severe under extrusion.
3. Did this blockage somehow alter the tension on the feed unit and by increasing and decreasing the tension "un set" this?
4. Interestingly to throw a spanner in the works, the under extrusion did not occur on all types of PLA, I managed to get two good results with some year old PLA sections. This could be just luck but find it odd given that the PLA was the same colour and manufacture as some new stuff (Faberdashery)
Now off to find info on the heating bed and how to take that apart to check.
Watch this space
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Hi Mark, I use Faberdashery's Mercury Red and Arctic white a lot and never have problems with them. I do find that Arctic white seems to flow thicker, if that makes any sense, and run that a lower temperature to avoid any blobs appearing when turning corners.
thanks for that - out of interest what temp are you running for the Artic White
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This looks like grinding where the feeder at the back of the machine pushes too hard and eventually the filament gives in and the knurled bolt on the stepper motor eats away the filament. This will certainly lead to underextrusion (less filament than expected) and also the teflon piece will have a hard(er) time when buldges like that pass through it.
have stripped the feeder apart and cleaned things out, although there was very minimal material. Is there a way to check the correct tension?
I have once again taken apart the nozzle and given it a good clean, all looks good but still having problems. So far have tried with White Faberdashery, and Red and Clear Color Fab all with similar results. Have ordered some filament from UM today but this is perhaps a long shot as have used Fabs White before with fantastic results so unless the material has changed im stumped
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@mark hale - regarding your post #740 (5 posts ago) that lower picture looks like underextrusion. It's the pattern one sees (broken strands all around) when you print very thin layer heights (< .08) and/or underextrusion.
Have just removed the filament, ready to do a complete strip down of the heating unit. Not sure if this is the main issue but in quite a few places it looks like the filament has got stuck see below. I'm wondering if this means something in the feed unit is failing. Has anyone else with underextrusion problems experienced this? Would imagine that if any of this tries to enter the nozzle, it might cause poor flow of material.
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fantastic thread everyone. Currently trying to diagnose a possible under extrusion myself.
Seems to vary when this happens but always after approx 8mm. Have stripped down the head but having read the various points I am wondering if the white teflon plug needs a check. as that was the one thing I only took a very cursory glance at, as was focusing on the nozzle and cleaning that out.
Also noticed this at the start of the print - is that a heat / cooling issue
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Another oddity to watch out for... if you're printing mostly by the light of the built-in LEDS (and especially when the LEDS are not at full power), then you can get a stop-motion strobe effect where the fans appear to be turning slowly, but are actually running at full speed, and are just being lit by the (very fast) flashes of the LEDS in positions where the blades almost line up between flashes. Freaked me out the first time it happened... at night in the middle of a long print... go to check printer, and the side fan looks like its sort of wobbling back and forth... went to poke it with my finger, and it about took my finger tip off, lol!!
LOL - I spotted that the other night and thought the right fan was stopping. Good job I spotted this post as was toying with the idea of checking all the connections later today.
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Similar problems here. Really frustrating as managed to get a sample at a 3D print show earlier in the year of the XT stuff. Was very impressed, however I recently bought a couple of reels of the XT and two standard PLA
The XT just clogs and will not give a reliable print, last night I ended up having to strip down the nozzle completely to get things working.
The standard Red gives varying results like the image below, yes it is red afraid the light in the workshop makes it look orange on the photo, at first I thought it was the filament sticking on the spool but then took a section off and let it run free. I have also tried varying the temp but can't get consistent results.
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Just came across this site, looks quite interesting
http://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com/
No mention of costs though but thought it was a good out of the box idea
Mark
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That's a really interesting idea. Guess the rear fan would influence this change
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I tend to use this one on the default settings as per when the UM2 arrived just to give me an indication on any changes if I tweak anything. This is the only reason I'm printing it. It's my base print test.
Actually Sander you are correct the filament is the only thing that is different as I have now run out of the blue. This is from Faberdashery so yes that could be a factor I didn't actually consider. Again I kept the blue for testing.
Certainly over what is almost a year of using the UM2 gosh that's gone fast, I have noticed the difference on some filaments. Tend to stick to either Ultimaker branded or the Faberdashery stuff, but even then there is some wide variation in the print output
Anyway other prints I do seem to be fine so probably not worth more messing around, it was just having stripped the unit or at least the head apart I was curious why my standard test failed this way.
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all present and correct, im also tempted to put one of the older fans back on just in case there is an issue with the new ones, although all three seem to be functioning correctly.
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LOL yes correct, left ear.
Appreciate it is not easy but I noticed that its not as good as it used to be. So im basing the print on earlier models before the PLA overload disaster.
Its not a major problem tbh as prints of other things I do are fine, I was just concerened that I had perhaps missed something else when putting the print head back together
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Hi, wonder if anyone can shed some light on this problem.
I recently had a filament "blowout" around the print head where when printing overnight the print failed and the PLA got well and truly wrapped around the head and rear fan.
Never happens when im in the room of course
On removal I managed to bend the metal fan housing as well as damage one of the fans on the side as well.
When I cleared the head and replaced the fans (I ordered a complete set from Ultimaker - so decided to replace all three), I then attempted a test print but found that the right ear on the robot was not forming well and seemed to miss the bottom section.
Speaking to the guys at Ultimaker at a show in London, they suggested it might be the metal houisig and the fact that the fans were not directing the air. They send me a replacement housing and this is now in place. Whilst the ear has improved on the print as shown in the image, it is still not forming correctly. I am going to print the robot later tonight orientated the other way around as I guess in theory if it is the fans, then the problem should be reversed.
In the meantime I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this
thanks
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ok thanks will take a look at that area
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Is it possible to alter the default settings on the UM2 so I do not have to keep reducing the bed temperature from 75 each time.
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Just spotted this on an UM2. Has anyone got an stl file of this. Assume this is now being shipped with the latest versions as didn't have one of these with mine.
Seems like a good idea to support the feed
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Thanks. Cura has this feature built in - you just load a jpeg file instead of a STL file.
well i didn't know that.
Saves me messing with the lithopane software
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I replaced mine with an ebmpapst 255N. It's a bit pricy but very silent!
Excellent - did this come with the connectors or just straight wire, just did a quick search and came across http://uk.mouser.com/ @£14 so yes expensive but tempted to cut down on the noise if replacing. .
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Hi
Does anyone know the full specifications for the Hot-end Cooling Fan 5VDC 0.08A on the Ultimaker 2.
After a filament block (why does this happen when im not around) the rear fan got well and truly covered in PLA and despite managing to clean the plastic I think it suffered an overheat and is now failing.
Have had a look on the store but this doesn't seem to be available, had a look at the BOM but need to know the exact specs so I can look to get a replacement.
I have also emailed support to see if its available direct from Ultimaker.
Cheers
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Ah excellent, many thanks
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yes I mean having this in the menu system on the printer. Last night I had a major clog of the print head so needed to run a print job at high temp for quite a while, just thought it would be good to have the head static and be able to run a purge direct from the printer menu
Hot end fan connector
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Whilst trying to diagnose a faulty build plate I noticed that according to the manual from https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf
the hot end fan connector should be located in the middle of the board. I noticed that mine is connected to an end connector on the right hand side of the PCB (bottom of the image below). Since this was fully assembled and has been working for quite some time now, i am assuming that this location is correct. Can any one comment on this. Should I move it or leave it where it is?