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  1. UDPATE: In case anyone arrives here, I found the solution: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18342-successful-result-octopi-start-and-end-gcode-for-um2
  2. Hi Folks. I have been using UM2 for nearly 2 years and for most of that time I used Octopi to control the UM2 remotely. After a recent Cura / Firmware update the Octopi seemed to be failing to print properly and today I got around to fixing that. I got the latest Octopi image and then I started messing around with the Start and End GCode in Cura. Since I sometimes use Octopi and sometimes print with SD card from the front of the UM2, I wanted to make sure that using these 2 modes were compatible. In particular, the 'extrude after print' and 'prime before print' needs to match up reasonably w
  3. I have got the same problem. I have had to give up printing via OctoPrint for now. I presume this must be the updated firmware in the UM2 ? I was very happy with Octoprint until I recently updated the UM2 and Cura
  4. Hi Folks. I have just tried using ColorFabb XT White. Total Fail. I have had a reel here since March, waiting to upgrade my UM2 with Stainless Steel nozzle. Finally today I installed my Olsson Block, with 0.4mm Stainless Steel nozzle, for the XT. Tried the 10mm3 cylinder test with XT. First test taught me that I can't print XT onto clean hot glass - it left the bed within a few cycles. So I used glue stick. This time it stuck OK, but even at 3mm/s I got a feeder skip and immediately the print was over. Unlike PLA where under extrusion will droop or wrap but still basically stick - I
  5. Confirmed - UM2 GCode from new Cura is no good for Octopi. First test failed because the bed didn't even raise. Anyone have any info on getting REPRAP format GCode out of new Cura, for use with Octoprint and a UM2 ? I am also trying to update with the latest Cura - I use Octopi to deliver the prints to the UM2 which is operated remotely. Previously we had to use the REPRAP export GCode format - but I don't see an equivalent in the Cura Prefs for the machines. With respect to heat-up, I always manually heat the bed to 75c, then manually heat the head to 230c, and whilst watching the
  6. I am also trying to update with the latest Cura - I use Octopi to deliver the prints to the UM2 which is operated remotely. Previously we had to use the REPRAP export GCode format - but I don't see an equivalent in the Cura Prefs for the machines. With respect to heat-up, I always manually heat the bed to 75c, then manually heat the head to 230c, and whilst watching the camera feed on the Octopi, I push extrude 2 or 3 times and watch the filament come out into a ball. I also hit the home head a few times and this eventually makes the ball of filament fall to the ground. Just as it does tha
  7. BEFORE AND AFTER MAINTENANCE, 30 Minutes from zero to hero. Read about it here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8467-serious-underextrusion/?p=80124
  8. Hi There. So - here is a great example of what some careful maintenance can achieve. Witness the photo below which shows a 'before' and 'after' maintenance on the SAME printer, about 30 minutes apart. Here is the story: - I have had this Ultimaker 2 since November 2013. It was not until May 2014 that I started evaluating its performance - since until then I was quite happy with 0.1mm layers at 50mm/sec speed - and most Ultimakers can do that *fairly* well - even sick ones. Anyway - as soon as I first did the 10mm3 test - I could see I had a problem. To cut a long story short (long st
  9. So.... I have now completed 70 prints (140 half parts).... So far so good. The Faberdashery PLA is working out very nice at 0.2mm/75mm/sec. This is about 120 solid hours of printing. However. I have started to hear the UM2 groaning a bit when the head moves across. I have a feeling it wants oil. So far I have done no lubrication. Grease on the Z screw, I am happy with - and I have the UM supplied stuff. I am still trying to get hold of some sewing machine oil, but I was not really sure what to lubricate - I read somewhere that the X/Y is 'self lubricating' - is that true ? Do I a
  10. A bit more information for the mix. As you may have read a dozen pages or so ago, I went through a long testing process to find out why I had under-extrusion problems and alot was learned. In my case the biggest problem was a melt-distorted teflon coupler, but it also became clear there were alot of other smaller things which contributed. Anyway - after replacing the teflon coupler, I was finally able to start printing at 0.2mm and increasing speed a little. Having printed for 6 months at 0.1/50mm/s I was actually very pleased with the results at 0.2mm/50mmsec - particularly for engineeri
  11. Thanks for the tips. Incidentally I think I may have a loose rod - its clunking alot more than it did when it was new and I have a feeling there is some forward to backward play in one of the side rods. How do I fix that? Also, I noticed what may be a design-flaw, and lead to failures long term - the LED lighting cable is fouling one of the pulleys, and I am sure its going to eventually wear through it. I have posted a video here: http://www.gallery.co.uk/private/UM2-LED-Fouling.mov I will try to reglue the strip once this print is done, but I have noticed all along that the LED strip
  12. Hi Folks. I am about to start a long run of prints (of the same thing) which will go on for several weeks. Maybe 100-200 2-hour prints. My UM2 is already 6 months old, and I have not done any maintenance on it (except replacing the Teflon coupler and the Bowden tube). I wonder if anyone can tell me the procedure for general maintenance on the UM2. What should I be servicing before I start the run ? Thanks Mark
  13. So... The new Teflon Piece arrived, and it made a big difference as you will have seen from my previous posts. Today I changed the material and took the time to perform a test of the 'hot push, cold pull' with the new teflon. You can see below the difference between the results from the old melted teflon and the new shiny teflon. The bulge at the neck on the melted teflon sample is where the filament was getting stuck and causing extrusion restrictions. Before Replacing Teflon - note the neck bulge : After replacing teflon - much cleaner
  14. Hey Folks. So an update from me. UM sent me some replacement parts, and I just fitted the new Teflon Piece, new Bowden Tube and new bowden tube clip on the print head end. I also printed a little pulley to help position the filament before it hits the feeder. First print, all defaults: Thats a result... no babysitting, no extra hot, no flow rate mods. 220 degrees right from the file, no tweaks. So... I think we can conclude that the issues I was having were related to 'snags' in the Teflon and perhaps the bowden. Also, I noticed that the old bowden tube was decidedly floppy
  15. Just a quick Update from me. I am still waiting on the replacement Teflon Piece etc from Ultimaker. I don't have any indication of when it will arrive. Meanwhile, I carry on printing with great care. Most of the problems caused by the distorted Teflon (apart from limiting speed) are problems loading filament (at least 50% of attempts the end gets stuck in the teflon and never hits the nozzle. Also I am having lots of problems now at the start of prints. There seems to be some issue related to earlier retraction and not getting enough filament to the head early on in the print. I will of
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