chrisp
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Posts posted by chrisp
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Happy New Year Folks!
I made this Glowfill Frisbee to toss around last night.
2mm thickness and with a diameter very close to the limitations of the build plate.
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I'm gonna try the original feeder and I'm changing the braided line to a belt drive system. I don't like using braided line because it keeps getting loose and my fingers are to big to get in there and tie them up constantly. It might be another 2 weeks until these mods are done.
I will contact E3D if these changes don't make a difference.
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Strange to see how people either report "everything perfect - good hotend" or "complete garbage, doesn't work at all" for the E3D. I'm pretty close to finally trying my E3D hotend out. Not on the delta-printer (bought a Merlin hotend for this one as it will be a PLA only printer), but my all-metal UM black edition went into it's next prototyping stage yesterday
/edit:
Back to the E3D: Did you set retraction length to 2.5mm ? I heard Cura's 4.5mm standard are too much for the E3D. But to be honest - I'm not up to date with the E3D anymore. Will need to read through all the stuff again before I start using it.
Yes, I have tried just about everything, except the original extruder Richrap designed. That's my next step.
Sounds familiar. I managed to get a single clog with the E3D but it was my fault. I forgot to have fan0 run all the time. Other than that I don't know why it would could clog so often. Maybe the temperature sensor readings are wrong and the feeder tries to move filament although it is not hot enough.
I saw a video where you use a sharpener to take out the edge of the bowden tube so it can travel a bit further down in the metal socket. Maybe try that too.
I tried using a grinding wheel and also a sharpener. It's very difficult to get the right chamfer on the tip. BTW, where did you get your parts for the original extruder? Was it the Makershed kit?
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Moment of Inspiration
It's cheap, extremely easy to use and I have never had an issue creating water tight models. It took about 2 days to learn with a few helpful videos.
Cura always slices the models perfect and ready for printing. I would love to use Solidworks, but the price is way over my price range.
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I finally got everything going and started to level the x, y, and z axis. I keep having clogging issues with this darn E3d hot end. I installed everything by the book and took every precaution necessary to get the tubing inserted and secured properly. I also heated up the hot end to 285 C to tighten up the nozzle. I have dealt with 5 clogs now and it is getting old really quick. I'm getting ready to install my cheaper hot end just to get the printer going. In my opinion, the way the tubing is connected is complete garbage. It's definitely not what I would expect a $90 hot end to be like.
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Has anyone seen the latest post of Colorfabb on twitter??
https://twitter.com/ColorFabb/status/544513469413093376/photo/1
What do you think? Gold filaments?? :mrgreen: :geek: :shock:
If it is Gold, I called it back when bronzefill was introduced. :cool: Can't wait to see what 2015 holds!
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These are the current travel limits that were set in Marlin from the file you gave me Nicolinux:
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 70
#define X_MIN_POS -70
#define Y_MAX_POS 70
#define Y_MIN_POS -70
#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
How exactly do I measure the limits? I thought it was from the nozzle in the homing position to the top of the build plate. In that case it was around 200mm in distance, which doesn't work. How did you come up with 70?
I'm so close I can smell the plastic melting!
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Yeah changing the board to 33 is the first change that I made. I did have my motors wired up wrong because they have 6 connectors going to 4. That's done and now they work, but I know the travel distance is wrong from homing position to the build plate. The hot-end slams into the build plate.
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I started over and am now using the newest version of Marlin, (Not the beta).
I got the printer to home, extrude, and all of the endstops are working perfectly. The only problem I'm having now is the hot-end slamming into the base. I'm not sure where to find the code to change the travel distance from homing position to the build plate. Any suggestions? I'll post a pic.
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Onkel,
What electronics are you using in your build? I'm having a very difficult time getting mine to work with the Ramps 1.4.
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Thanks for the info fellas.....I guess I have some research to do.
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This seems to be a quite old Marlin version (process_commands is at line 1331 at the moment!). Make sure you have the current version.
It is an older one (0023) because I'm setting up a 3DR Delta and according to the creater, Richrap, this version is where to start.
I don't see BLEN_C in that image, so I'd guess that it's part of the LCD_CLICKED macro, which I'd expect to see defined in a header file, and I guess that header includes another which is supposed to define BLEN_C, but currently doesn't because of a header version mismatch.
(In C conventions, anything all CAPS is usually a constant. In traditional C it might be a preprocessor define).
p.s. It would be better if you posted code using BBcode code blocks.
I'm not really sure what your asking for? If I post all of the code it will be a huge post so which block should I post? The LCD section?
I'm using the Smart _Controller, not with Rumba. I have the Ramps with Mega.
//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================
// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT
//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse
// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER //RichRap = enabled for RUMBA
//automatic expansion
#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#endif
// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 205 // was 180 for 3DR V1
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 0
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 245
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 0 // This is now for NYLON printing no heated bed / was 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#ifdef ULTIPANEL
// #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4
#else //no panel but just lcd
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2
#endif
#endif
// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN
// M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/rc-1_hacked/
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23
// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX
#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"
#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H
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I am trying to compile my configurations in Marlin with this error showing up. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to setting new printers up. Can someone tell me what is causing this error? (Blen_C)
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I love that buildplate!
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Which build plate is that?
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That print came out beautiful! I am still waiting on 3 t-slot nuts to finish my build, lol. I had to order them from Misumi and they took a week just to ship em out. I think they come in today.
How many prints did it take to get that great resolution?
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Chrisp, You mean that no filament came out at all anymore? when you heated and move the filament?
because if this is the case its still working fine on my side most of the time. when I move filament I still get a nice string of filament (until it grinds)
Yes, that is exactly what I meant. If you still have filament coming out then this is not your problem.
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Nothing super exciting, just created some ninja feet for my 3DR Delta Printer in Grass color. I received my first shipment of Colorfabb filaments. Just love the glow fill and ninja flex is top notch. Now i know what I've been missing.
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I have a great idea which allows up to 3 fans mounted around the effector. Not quite sure about the fan sizes yet, but they can mount to the existing screws that hold the rods to the effector. I'll add a pic here when I get a chance.
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When I had that same issue, I took apart the hot end and found plastic stuck to the Teflon fitting around the rim and it was also deformed. This caused the entrance to the nozzle to shrink and the filament could not get past the fitting.
Heating up the nozzle did not work.
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Well, I'm still waiting on some t-slot nuts to complete this build.
The hotend mount I worked so hard on will not work because of the rods hitting the fan, so I had to design another one, which works the same as the one found on thingiverse, except mine is secured different.
Oh, and I used 3mm locking nuts instead so it never loosens up.
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Wow, this is a nice corner. When I grow up, I'd like to have one like that too
It took 7 years for me to convert the garage into "Man Town"!
Love it Chrisp..proper man cave lol... cant believe you have your UM2 on the side... dont ya just wanna look in all the time
?I'm 6'3" tall so looking into the UM2 is easy. I like to have full access to the filament and extruder. Soon there will be a whole rack system of printers!
Aww. adorable! I try to sneak my beagle in to all of my images/video projects
That's why it's on a rolly shelf right? right?? so it can follow you around the workshop.
Not a bad idea. Didn't really think about that yet, but it is certainly possible.
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Very tempting to let loose a good design from the files.
BTW, lRobertl I am currently using 3 of your designs. :-P Love the spool holder!
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Best way to clean old nozzle?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I occasionally use a heat gun for removing the leftover plastics stuck inside. haven't dealt with the black burnt inside yet.