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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. I have been using the slurry method for a while now and it works fine for me. I'm not afraid of the Acetone. As with most chemicals it's all about exposure time. I only print ABS now an then. On an average I might apply a slurry wash once or twice per week. With a usage like that i would not worry at all. On the other hand if I had a print farm and spend most of the day applying acetone slurry and I expect to do that for years to come. Then I would with no doubt build some kind of ventilation around the printers, use a mask or use another method to get the print to stick. I also print wi
  2. I have some pictures of WIPs posted in some thread I think. Don't really have much on the web as so far I have mostly been experimenting. Fixed a picture of a Vampirella (in front of her cave of birth ) WIP for you. Base, cloth (the little there is), hair are sculpted on top of printed body. As I have to sculpt much anyway I have also made some experiments where I only print a shrinked version of the body as more of a skeleton on witch I put 1-2mm of sculpting clay. As I have to work on the surface finish and add details manually anyway this way of working don't take more time an
  3. 25-30 cm figurines / action figures sort of things. Nude figures is less work but say clothes with folds, buttons etc and hair is hard to fix without losing details. So as it is I more or less only print nude figures and then sculpt cloth and hair in traditional ways on top of it. Would be nice to be able to print cloth with folds and all but it means lots of undercuts and supports witch makes a mess of the surface. So it's booth a matter of surface finish in large (no visible lines after spray painting) and how the surface looks after cutting away any support.
  4. Was a while ago but in case someone finds the thread looking for a solution to same problem. Suggested solution worked fine.
  5. Form 2 is on it's way I have been thinking about maybe getting one. It cost almost twice as much as a Ultimaker 2, material cost is probably at least 3 times higher and handling it is more messy. As I see it the only reason for getting one is if it prints with such surface quality that I don't have to fill and sand for a perfect surface. If I look at my Ultimaker2 prints (25cm figurines), I probably have to put some 20-30 hours into fixing the suface. If I think like, how much would I be prepared to pay someone to do it for me (it's boring as well) I would happily pay $100-$150 for someon
  6. Ok, I undestand. What if I disable fan in Cura. Would I then be able to take full controll by using TweakAtZ. As far as I can see from the gcode no M106 commands except the one from TweakAtZ exists.
  7. Ok. I googled that that M106 is fanspeed and the S value after the speed in percent. But I rather guess that the value on S is 0-255 as that's what it seems like from the gcode. If I look at the gcode it goes something like this. Layer 1 S5 Layer 2 S10 Layer 3 S15 Layer 3 S0 TweekAtZ (0 with the option to keep the value for rest of print selected) Layer 4 S20 Layer 5 S25 .... Layer 20 S107 Layer 20 S0 TweekAtZ (0 with the option to keep the value for rest of print selected) Layer 21 S112 ...... Layer 47 S255 (this is the last Fan change, probably because it has reached max speed
  8. Losend the pulley on the rod and thightend it back again and noize is gone.
  9. I haven't changed anything in code. I used the Tweak At Z plugin. I think this is the place where the tweek is suppose to happen. But I dont expect any problem with that really. It's more like there is some code somewhere that turns the fan on later in the print. What is the code for setting fan speed, can take a look myself i I know what to look for. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- .701 G1 F1800 X118.955 Y114.147 E913.69491 G0 F9000 X119.500 Y114.126 G1 F1800 X137.726 Y132.352 E914.72593 G0 F9000 X137.942 Y132.002 G1 F1800 X120.044
  10. I have placed a tweek at layer 3 that turns of the fan. But it did start anyway. Also tried a second tweek at layer 20 but still I found it spinning later on. Is there any perticular layer I must reach before i can turn of fan for rest of print?
  11. If the source is what you think it might be then what is the solution. Could I just put some oil on the belt to reduce friction against the sides?
  12. Printer has started to sound bad for some 20 hours print time ago. The it was just a sound now and then now it's there almost all the time. I have tried to put a finger on the different axis as well as the print head and the box, close to ant ball bearings but the ticking sound does not seem to make enough vibrations for me to feel where it comes from. Nothing is visible in the print though. Any Ideas? Link to video
  13. I have experimented a little with different ways of getting a nice surface. So far I have worked mostly with filling, sanding and painting. Made some experiments on products I had at home last week and had great success with painting an a layer of Urethane casting resin as well as with an Epoxy Resin / Baby powder mix. Booth products had a very self leveling and glossy result and booth where easy to sand. I did however prefer the Urethane that was a bit softer to sand an leveled out a bit better and cured faster. After that I got some tip for some another products. A Urethane Clear coat f
  14. Sorry about the bad picture. Done with the finish of the figure. Now it's on to sculpting hair and base on top of the 3D printed base.
  15. Just want to add that the epoxy baby powder mix worked just as fine. The urethane creted a little smoother surface by itself, was a little more easy to sand. Probably just to put some more baby powder in the epoxy to get the same result with that. I think main differences are that you get more work time with the epoxy but that also mean longer cure time and maybe a little larger risk of runs. The urethane can be hold and rotated to minimize risk of running the short time it takes before it gets hard. I also think the urethane layer was a bit thinner as it was more fluid. will try the metho
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