sigi
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Posts posted by sigi
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Kontrolliere doch mal, was in Cura unter Expert - Open Expert Settings... (oder CTRL + E) im Bereich 'Fix horrible' eingestellt ist.
Ich würde hier mal alle Hacken raus nehmen und dann nochmal überprüfen ob das Loch nun offen ist.
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Ich denke damit du feststellen kannst wo es klemmt, ist es notwendig das Filament im Extruder zu lösen und den Bowdenzug vom Druckkopf zu entfernen.
Ersteres hat mnis oben schon erklärt.
Wenn am Extruder das Filament dann frei liegt, kannst Du den Bowdenzug vom Druckkopf entfernen. Dafür den Clip (roter Ring) von der Halterung schieben, diese Halterung dann nach unten in den Druckkopf drücken und nun vorsichtig probieren den Bowdenzug raus zu bekommen. Nicht mit Gewalt!
Danach dürfte dann der Bowdenzug soweit zurück zu schieben sein, dass du an das Filament direkt über dem Druckkopf ran kommst.
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Hast Du schon probiert dem Extruder beim "Change Material" unter die Arme zu greifen? Sprich: sobald der Extruder das Filament zurück zieht, einfach am Filament anziehen. Damit solltest Du den Teil des Filaments, der schon rund geschliffen ist zurück zu bringen. Den Rest dürfte der Extruder dann selbst zurück transportieren.
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I didn't read through the complete thread, therefore it might have been already discussed:
Have you measured the diameter of the filament and checked if this fits to the material-setting in UM2.
A gap between these two might also cause underextrusion problems ...
Just thinking...
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I think a cable with banana jacks will fit into this 'Erde' connector. If you have an alligator clamp for the other side it should be possible to connect this to the earthing of an electric socket. The earthing are the two visible connectors of a electric socket (not the two connectors behind the two holes !!!!! - be careful, never plug anything other than a standard power plug in there).
That setup will cause the earth leakage circuit breaker to switch the power off in case of a fault.
However, if you're not 100% sure about what you're doing: Keep the fingers off this! I don't want to hear that you got a new hairstyle because of some power through your body!!!
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In case you have a digital video camera and an old 8mm Super films projector on hands, this can be done by your own.
Just project the films to a good screen and in parallel record it with the digital video camera.
I've seen films archived in that way and they look very good.
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..... bingo... KINO .... that is an amazing cable... allowing for the power to flow one way and the other...
Ian :smile:
The trick is that this is a four wire cable where no earthing is in use. Therefore two cables for one direction and two for the opposite direction.
And for sure you have noticed this 'Erde' label on the power adapter: For secure usage you should connect this to the earthing of your electrical installation. Otherwise it might be possible to end up with 230V on the housing of the power adapter.... :shock: (this means not only heating but also hairdressing in case you touch it .....)
Please be careful!
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The projector is running 50V only.
The external unit is the power adapter. The power supply gets connected to the projector, from there two wires are used to get into the power adapter. There you can select if you're on 100 or 210 V (using the locked switch). The two additional wires are used to bring the transformed power (now 50V) back to the projector. This is done by resistors in the power adapter.
This is basically because of the lamp in the projector (which is running on 50V only). I'm not sure about the motors....
I know: Power units on modern notebooks for example are much smaller .... :cool: :cool:
The good thing is: You can use the power adapter also as a heater.
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Is the Filament transported in the middle of the knurled bolt mantle?
The 'teeth marks rotating around the filament' issue could be caused by a too outer placement of the mantle on the shaft.
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Ich würde mal folgende Einstellungen probieren:
- Layer height: 0,1 mm
- Fill Density: 0 (also komplett hohl)
- Print speed: 25 mm/s (dauert zwar länger, sollte aber bei den Überhängen positiv zum tragen kommen)
- Nozzle temp: 210°C
Ich hab' mit diesen Einstellungen mal die http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50212 gedruckt - das Ergebnis war da top.
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And another peculiar thing I noticed. Don't know how it could be related though. The teeth marks on the filament inside the bowden tube do not form a straight line but somehow rotate around the filament. I haven't noticed it before, maybe it is normal (and due to the filament curvature).
Hm, for me this seems to be something mechanical rather than too less power of the extruder.
In another thread someone noticed that the riffled wheel in the extruder got loose and therefore couldn't move the filament in the desired way.
I think a misplaced riffled wheel can cause the teeth marks rotating around the filament.
This is a picture I posted in the other thread to show how the riffled wheel should be adjusted:
Maybe worth to check.
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Just came back to my UM2 and found this little guys dancing around and having party ....
... what the heck ... ? :shock:
:-P :-P :-P
Ian, thanks for this wonderful UltiRobot re-design!
Sigi
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Hallo!
Was muss ich anders einstellen, um den Druck bei Verbreiterung des Objekts in der Höhe verbessern zu können?
Viele Grüße
Karsten
Mit welchen Einstellungen hast du denn gedruckt?
Und: Wie groß ist das Teil?
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Hey guys, I finally built my Ultimaker last week and decided to check what this puppy can do.
For my second print, I decided to give Yoda a chance and printed him at .06mm layer height.
This is what he looks like after some sanding and a paintjob:
Let me know what you guys think! I would be happy to know if you have some tips for squeezing more juice from the original Ultimaker.
It's every time amazing to see what's possible to get out of an Ultimaker.
The painting makes a part each time complete. The Yoda is appearing very nice!
I'm not a painter, therefore I'm always impressed when seeing such a sculpture.
Welcome to this forum!
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Last week a friend asked me if it's possible to print a replacement hook for a workshop lamp that got broken. I told him, this is absolutely no problem... :shock:
Drawing this hook was very quickly done, however printing was a challenge.
My first attempt was to print it lying flat with support, this ended up with a loose sphere (the one at the end of the hook). Next try was to printing it standing upright with Raft and support, however this was also not successful (not enough contact area to keep the print on the build platform).
Therefore I decided to print it in two half hooks and glue them together:
The workshop lamp is now complete again. Mission accomplished! :cool: :cool:
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I spent a little time looking for a previous post on how to adjust the tension of the short belts on an Ultimaker 2. I couldn't find anything.
The short belt located on the back-right side of my UM2 is loose. I decided to check it after noticing that my circular holes in my prints are a little oval and not so round.
Can anyone point me in the right direction or explain to me the best way to go about tightening up this short belt? Or is there another option to adjusting settings in Cura or through the control panel?
That might have happened because the screws of the stepper motor got loose. On the back side of the UM2 you see the four screws going to the stepper motor. Open them slight, push the stepper motor down and tighten the screws again.
I had an issue with the pulley of the left stepper motor and realized that the screws were not tightened too strong.
This issue was described in this post:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4171-ultimaker2-axis-squeeknoise-solved/
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Du musst in dem von Dir gezeigtem 'Advanced' Menü-Punkt 'Enable cooling fan' anhacken.
Dann gibt es aber noch ein Expert config. Das kann entweder über CTRL+E bzw. über die im Bild unten gezeigte Vorgehensweise aufgerufen werden.
Auf dieses 'Expert config' bin ich im Post von gestern eingegangen.
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Komisch, egal was ich mache (habe auch mal einen anderen Drucker eingestellt) sehe ich in Cura 14.01 die Einstellmöglichkeiten für 'Cool' - 'Fan' unter 'Expert config'.
Kannst du das nochmal überprüfen?
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Hallo Martin,
unter Expert -> Open expert settings... findest du Einstellungen zum Lüfter unter 'Cool' dort ist 'Fan full on at heigth' auf 5 mm gestellt. Ich denke wenn du hier '0 mm' angibst und dann noch die beiden 'Fan speed' - Werte auf 100 % stellst sollte der Lüfter eigentlich laufen.
Support type "touching buildplate" fügt Stützmaterial nur in Richtung Plattform ein sofern diese direkt im Lot erreichbar ist. "Everywhere" fügt Stützmaterial auch zwischen Modell-Teilen ein. Den Unterschied kannst Du sehr schön in der 'Layers'-Ansicht sehen.
Bzgl. "Layers Ansicht hängt sich auf": hast du schon mal ein anderes STL-File probiert? Bei mir funktioniert das ohne Probleme.
Sigi
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The above image is from your video near the end. The red arrow points to the gap between the pulley and the motor. That is huge on your machine compared to mine. That gap should be as small as possible without touching the motor. It's about 1/2 mm on mine. I suggest you remove the left back metal cover (just one screw to remove that screws directly into a threaded nut like piece welded to the cover), remove the motor, loosen the pulley on the motor and slide it closer to the motor without touching it, tighten it back up (very very tight) and then put it all back together.
I had the same issue today. During the last few days I recognized a noise in the left back of the UM2. The information of gr5 helped a lot.
I just followed the instruction above and am now back printing very silent again.
Thanks!
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Lennart, impressible quality.What is the source of this print?
Sigi
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This weekend I printed the https://www.youmagine.com/designs/labyrinth-gift-box designed by IRobertI.
This box is causing a lot of fun and amazement at every person who gets it in their hands.
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Is the nozzle in an UM2 the same as the one in UM Original?
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Last night I printed two guitar wall mounts.
The design is from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:178634.
Both are for a good friend.
The black one for a standard sized guitar, the white one for an ukulele.
For that it was necessary to resize the distance of the two arms. This was done by using Blender to directly adjust the STL file.
Cura verschliesst Öffnungen
in Deutsch
Posted
Ich hab' das Ganze gerade mal in Blender probiert:
- original STL File importieren
- Modifier 'Solidify' darauf anwenden (hier gewünschte Wandstärke definieren)
Somit wird aus dem Vollkörper ein hohler Körper mit definierter Wandstärke.
Danach noch einen Zylinder vom Boden per Modifier 'Boolean' abziehen um somit das Loch rein zu modellieren.
Export als STL.
Das Ergebnis in Cura zeigt das gewünschte Loch.
Evtl. kann Blender hier mehr (oder arbeitet sauberer) als Sketchup.