meduza
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Posts posted by meduza
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One thing you could do is making almost a Ultimaker 2 nozzle but with the heater block as a separate threaded on the nozzle/tube, that way you could keep it reliable (no extra sealing surfaces) but easier to switch out the nozzle since you do not have to remove the heater cartridge and temperature sensor from the head.
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I hope you realize that you cannot make exact copies of the UM2 nozzle assembly to sell since that would be a direct violation of the CC-BY-NC licence ( http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/%20)
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*waves back at IRobertI* Well it was propably time for me to post some stuff here, been a long time reader tough
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Have you checked with your local Makerspaces / Hackerspaces / Fab-Labs if they have the equipment?
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I did it with a stationary drill and a rotating nozzle assembly, but that was with both the block and the drill clamped securely in a lathe
I really recommend to use a lathe or a mill (or a really good precision drill press if you are lucky to have one of those) to do this operation (could be accomplished with either one, just different way of mounting the nozzle assembly and what part that is stationary)
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Is it a UM1 or a UM2 nozzle?
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It is a good way of doing a one-off nozzle without tools, sure thing, and the technique has been used in the reprap community for years, there is some problems tough.
Firstly you do not want to clamp the sensitive brass thread on a UM2 nozzle in a drill chuck, and since there is about 20mm sticking out in front of the chuck you can not be sure that it actually rotates around the nozzle center (drill chucks are not precision tools), it will probably wobble a little which leads to a risk of either not finding the center or finding the hole but getting drill wobble = either a too large hole drilled or a broken carbide drill.
This is quite a problem when doing UM2 nozzles since they are quite expensive.
There is also a second problem due to the fact that the UM2 nozzle assembly is hugely unbalanced and will introduce vibrations in itself if your drill setup is not very sturdy.
It would actually be better to do the above technique in reverse, and mounting the round part of the nozzle in the chuck, then it would run closer to true to the drills rotational axis, the problem then is that you do not see what you are doing, but since the internal hole is such a tight fit between a 1/8" drill and the 3.2mm barrel (about 0.025mm slop) you have a better chance at doing it with a good result if you do it carefully, but you would still have the problem with vibrations.
I Stand by that the method i decribe at YouMagine is the better way of doing it if you have access to a lathe or a mill.
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I am really happy with how these turned out, the 1/8" (3.175mm) shank tools is perfect for reaching down into the 3.2mm barrel and drilling the hole from the inside to minimize the risk of damage to the nozzle and in combination with a nice precision lathe (courtesy of Stockholm Makerspace, www.makerspace.se) it was fairly easy to get a perfectly centered hole.
The enlarged shoulder only shortens the end barrel by approx 0.3mm,so there is still more than enough material thickness left.
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I saw
got me quite intrested in the possibility to have a printer with dual extrusion and use it with one fine and one coarse nozzle (they use 0,3 and 0,8mm nozzles), and use the fine one to print the perimeters and the coarse one to print the infill, for a much faster printing while still retaining a great surface quality.Would this be a possibility to include in a future Cura release?
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
My first print in Bronzefill, tried various polishing techniques but settled for fine grain sand paper (240 grit), rotating brass wire brush with a dremel on low speed and finally Autosol polishing paste with a rag.
The aged look is accomplished with applying a layer of black spraypaint and instantly afterwards try to wipe as much paint as possible off with a rag, this is done right before the final polishing.