meduza
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3D Prints
Posts posted by meduza
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The new ones from 3Dsolex does have the laser engraved numbers, i have some of those here in my hand :-)
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@swordriff: i am afraid that in my latest design the screw heads will be annoying since they have to stick up a bit above the surface to retain the key and will interfere with the fan shroud when turning the key.
I am leaning more towards my first design but not using any screws at all and instead using a drop of super glue to fix the key to the printed part.
The dent method does sound nice if it works, even if i think you should use at least two dents on opposing sides to keep the nozzle straight, also i would think that too tight tolerances on the hex part is not a good idea since the nozzles tend to accumulate plastic residue after a while.
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I did also make one version with countersunk screws, could easily be coupled to Anders wrench with the same method @ultiarjan used :-)
I do like @IRobertI's torque arm design, @swordriff, your latest design sounds neat, i like that it would hold the nozzle by it self, but at the same time it looks kind of fragile...
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I also started with a design, but soon realized that my idea of using a screw and a nut trap to screw the key to my plastic holder will not work due to that nothing can be sticking up over the top of the key to not interfere with the fan shroud...
I am also not that excited by this design, i think that the best thing would be a shorter socket where the nozzle cannot fall down into and a evolution of Anders torque wrench.
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I would guess that my printer is doing about 25h/week
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@tinkergnome: Just installed the 15.09 version, fantastic work, the new menu is way more to my liking than the original!
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I have done the same when not having any spare and wanting to keep on printing, but i used a lathe instead of a knife, it works for some time, but it is not 100% more time but more like 30-40% more time.
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@nigel: heated chamber is surrounded by a lot of Stratasys patents tough... so dont expect that one... there is a reason for why virtually no printer manufacturers other than stratasys make that.
Same thing with the soluble supports since the materials that is known to work well is patented and heavily protected by Stratasys, PVA is not that promising since it has a huge amount of problems. You have to hope for some filament manufacturer investing a lot of money in R&D to make some kind of new plastic here...
I do not think the size will be much bigger, since it would not fit the "desktop" segment anymore if you grew it that large.
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You can upload to the SD card like @tinkergnome describes (i belive that octoprint has the function built-in) but it takes forever because of the slow transfer speed over the usb-serial...
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Nice idea with the coupler, but those shafts seem to have a flat on the end, should be quite easy to design a nice knob with a stop screw to prime the feeder instead of using a coupler
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@neotko, of course you can suggest changes, feedback is one of the reasons for open sourcing it from the start, i want to make this as good as possible :-)
I have uploaded a new version to Thingiverse with 0.15mm larger nut traps and 4.2mm wide holes over the motor screws (i had to shorten them a bit compared to your version to not make the hole too much into the nut trap, but you should be able to angle the screwdriver slightly with no problem)
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-geared-um2-feeder-upgrade
The file is "geared-feeder-plate-V2.stl"
The shafts also look great, and if you add a knob to the outside you should as you say be able to use it to manually purge the feeder
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The pins i used (had them at home, dont know the source) did work right out of the box with no sanding, it surely was tight but i did not need too much pressure to fit the bearings to the shaft.
@neotko, it sounds like you have got hardened pins, those are as hard as the file so thats why almost nothing happens. You can soften it by using a small gas burner to heat it to red hot and let it cool in air.
A M5 screw is not that good of an option, i would look for a piece of silver steel rod (a good hardware store) or just a 5mm stainless steel shaft (hobby/rc stores can be a local source), both can also be bought on ebay.
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The I2K is made from a very temperature resistant engineering plastic.
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Very intrested if you can get it to print well @nicolinux, i had similar problems and did not put down much time in researching why since i did not have any particular use for the CF20 at the time.
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Nice, i have not had the time to actually mount my prototype to my UM2 yet, so you are actually the first person trying it @MrByte, huge thumbs up for that!
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A Printhead without disposable parts (or at the very least) cheap and easily replaced disposable parts)
A better and stronger feeder, preferably geared with dual-wheel drive
A fast 32bit ARM processor instead of the horribly low-powered 8-bit atmega, preferably with built-in ethernet, maybe Atmel SAMV7x?
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A quick-release mount for mounting my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 on a Joby Gorillapod Magnetic
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/note-4-gorillapod-mount
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@neotko and everyone else interested, the files are now available on YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-geared-um2-feeder-upgrade
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I will probably post the STL's to YouMagine tomorrow, just need to do some small adjustments first.
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The backlash of the curvilinear GT2 tooth profile is very low by design, and since there are quite many teeths in engagement (actually about 50% of the teeths are in engagement at any given time) on a very short belt, i do not expect backlash to be a very significant factor at all, especially since the gearing reduces the impact of backlash even further.
Belt tension is very easy to adjust for, if it ever would become a problem.
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I have been thinking a lot about making a bolt-on upgrade for the UM2 with a belt-drive, that would increase the pushing power, and also remove the thermal coupling between the feeder motor and the knurled bolt, since it has been shown that excessive temperatures at the bolt can decrease the performance of the feeder.
I did a few sketches during the last year, even did a printed mock-up that i posted on the old forum, but never got around to completing it. Yesterday i sat down and did a redesign in CAD, printed the pieces and now decided to post it here on the forums for your feedback
It is a very simple construction with a minimal BOM, only two GT2 pulleys (one 20T and one 36T), a 110mm long GT2 belt loop (55T), a 5x40mm cylindrical pin, two MF695 flanged bearings, some M3 screws & nuts and a few printed parts. Total cost should only be about 15€ says a quick look at eBay prices.
It functions as a gearbox that moves the knurled bolt a few centimeters outwards and upwards, and provides a new nema17 hole pattern which means that it will work with any feeder that is designed for the standard feeder position at the UM2, including the @IRobertI feeder and the original UM2 feeder, it gives you a gearing of 1.8:1 and removes almost all thermal coupling between the motor and the knurled bolt.
The only change needed to use this geared feeder upgrade is to change steps per mm in Marlin to the original value times 1.8, thats it!
All STL's and BOM: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/belt-geared-um2-feeder-upgrade
CAD Pictures:
Photos:
So, what do you guys think about it?
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Nice, so i actually guessed that close @swordriff, some more nozzles would be amazing, thanks!
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Where did you get it? Does it fit the Ultimaker2 spoolholder on the back?
I got it off the re:3D store: http://shop.re3d.org/collections/3mm-filament/products/15lb-spool-of-3mm-high-quality-filament
I have not actually used the roll on a Ultimaker at all, but on a re:3D Gigabot XL: http://shop.re3d.org/collections/gigabot-3d/products/gigabot-bigger-volume
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Sharing some exciting news: the Ultimaker 2+
in Official news
Posted
It uses the same powersupply as the UM2, so it will be no problem, it is a Mean Well GS220A20-R7B: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/gs220-spec-767464.pdf and have a input voltage of 90-264VAC