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twistx

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  1. titanoid, this is what i'm using.... http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-98003-Silicone-White/dp/B0044NI2M2 The manufacturer says it will not dry out or harden. Long term I cant say yet but first impression it appears to be helping. My heater/sensor are a loose fit in the block which might be why I was getting this error and others are not.
  2. Ok. I might have resolved my heater error problems. My first test print with fans on 100% completed successfully. I'm going to try printing some other stuff to make sure. No amount of PID tuning helped so I gave up on that. And I really didn't like the idea of modifying marlin. Plus I think extending the timer it would still occasionally error out. Instead I used some silicon heat sink compound, rated up to 500F, to improve the thermal interface between the heater/sensor and the block. When the fans come on and bed is close the temp drops by 4C but its recovering faster than before.
  3. I've noticed a few things that cause this for me. 1. When printing from SD card with USB connected to my linux machine, if I reboot and start linux again, the printer resets when the kernel starts loading modules. I haven't tried this with windows but I imagine it too could have this affect. Same thing happens if I try to connect to the printer with ponterface during a print. 2. Turning on a CFL desk lamp that is plugged into the same power strip/surge protector triggers the printer to reset.
  4. Thanks gr5, I'll mess around with this some more. The temp drops from 210C sometimes by 5-10C almost immediately. I'll try some new PID values, or just modify marlin to extend that timer.
  5. I tried that and there doesn't seem to be anything visually wrong with the heater or the sensor itself. With the printer idle at 210C I issued these commands twice with one and four minute intervals to slowly ramp up the speed. It bails out after about a minute M106 S200 is issued. >>> M107 SENDING:M107 >>> M106 S50 SENDING:M106 S50 >>> M106 S100 SENDING:M106 S100 >>> M106 S150 SENDING:M106 S150 >>> M106 S200 SENDING:M106 S200 Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) I do have firmware 15.02.1 installed.
  6. My block is installed. No problems with the sensor removal at all, although I had to mess with the locking ring and turn the sensor/heater a bit to retain both of them in the new block. So I started testing with the .4 nozzle and the printer is failing with "heater error". It seems when the fans kick on the temp drops by 5-10C and I'm guessing that is triggering this error. I've re-run the pid auto-tune, entered the values and saved them to memory. I'm also using the stock fan shroud. If I shut the fans off no error occurs and the temp stays around 1-2C of the target.
  7. I'm interested. I tried printing t-glase recently and I had only poor results. The manufacturer recommends a .7mm for best results and at least .5mm so being able to swap the nozzle out would be ideal.
  8. Thank you very much for this mod! I was thinking it would be nice to see the Z height or layer number and of course you guys thought of it already. Very cool interface.
  9. Stock feeder. I get clicking before the first layer even finishes. Every time it clicks there is a reduction of nozzle flow and it creates gaps. I assume this means there is no clog. Around the 4mm level i upped the temp to 240C then 250C and it had no affect on the feeding. Adjusted the feed rate down to 80%, and up to 110%, and still no change. UM Original feeder has less torque so I didn't try swapping it. I think I just need to buy a new stepper to test that out.
  10. Here's the new set of cylinders after replacing the ptfe spacer, nozzle, and temp sensor with the new ones I was sent, as well as my new 3CFM fan. I tried with the fan blowing and sucking through the cooling fins. I pid tuned again on the third attempt and saved the settings to be sure temps are on target. Extruder clicking starts in the 4mm3/s zone until it chews a notch in the filament. I can't seem to get this any better. In fact I think these are worse than the first ones so I'm thinking of returning to the stock feeder to establish a new baseline. I definitely had an old ptfe spacer, it was a bit translucent compared to the new one which is a completely opaque. Then maybe temporarily attaching a fan on the front like 3Poro's twin tornado setup. Some extra cooling can't hurt right? Are the extruder motors between the original and the um2 the same? Maybe I can swap those to verify the UM2 motor isn't the issue. So frustrating! What else can I do?
  11. Its only a 10mm fan and the stock is 8mm so it will sit about flush with the corners of the aluminum hotend part. The socket cap screws will stick out a tad but that should be well above the shielding. The only problem I imagine is the wiring from the hotend will not fit into that gap by the fan anymore. I don't know for sure yet though. I just got my new ptfe and temp sensor this week so I need to put it all back together, I'll report back with pictures and a video.
  12. Update: the new 3CFM fans are very quiet! You do need to get some 12mm M2.5 Socket Cap screws to attach them though since they're a bit thicker than the stock. edit: correction the screws are m2.5
  13. Thanks, Gr5. I'll give your test a try this weekend. I am in the US-East. I do have a ticket open for a new ptfe piece and a new sensor, maybe glass too if its available, but they seem to be overwhelmed spinning up the new location so response has been a little slow. Since I'm having no luck as is, I'm thinking of expanding the inner diameter of the ptfe isolator just a hair. I read through Kris' thread and then 3Poro's and there is a lot of good info there. It gave me some things to try (like reversing the hotend fan flow) so I'm not giving up! Other than that, I have a flex3drive and a UM1 heated bed kit on the way... not sure when they will arrive. I haven't received any shipping notifications yet.
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