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Anders Olsson

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Anders Olsson last won the day on October 27 2015

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  1. It depends how many printing hours you have on the machine? If it has been operating more or less 24/7 (some of them actually do), you could consider replacing the timing belts, there is a kit for that. If the printer only has a few thousand operating hours though I think it will be fine with what you suggested. Pay extra attention to carefully cleaning and re-lubricating the Z-screw with the right type of lubricant as that probably is the most critical component for maintaining good printing quality. The feeder should´t need any attention unless you have been printing abrasive materials?
  2. I hate to admit it but I still use Cura 15.04 (with the same print speed setting for walls and infill) for the majority of my UM2 prints. Cura 15.04 is rather primitive but very consistent and predictable. Cura 2.x and 3.x have unfortunately had numerous bugs, the most annoying ones in my opinion related to excessive travel moves. The 3.5.1 version should have addressed the majority of the bugs, but if you are still not happy with it and can live with a primitive slicer 15.04 might be worth a try.
  3. The only reason for us to use boron carbide is that we want to absorb neutrons and boron (the 10 isotope) has very good properties for this. Boron Carbide is a chemically stable reasonably priced ceramic powder with high boron content (four boron atoms and one carbon atom). While a softer material with high boron content would have been preferable, there are no such options in a reasonable price range. Other uses is for example as a grinding powder, which explains why it eats 3D printer nozzles ? That is the basic reason behind the Olsson block and the Olsson Ruby nozzle, summed up in a few sentences ? If you are interested in further reading, we have published much of our work in an open access article: http://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1402-4896/aa694e (Check out the Supplementary Data too for information about the Olsson block and other stuff) There is currently no commercial production of boron carbide filament but there might be in the future. Be ware though, if you even come across it, that boron carbide is one of few materials which is harder than ruby, so it will slowly wear the ruby.
  4. It is a bit difficult to determine what went wrong. - Burnt ABS generally means that you could/should lower the printing temperature a bit, what brand material did you use? - ABS generally don't like cooling fans, on a model like that you should definitely leave the fans completely off (or issues with brittleness and warping will increase) - What slicing software did you use? My experience is that the sudden speed changes and excessive travel moves of some of the more recent versions of Cura made things much worse, compared to the good old 15.04.06 version.
  5. The current prefix that new Cura adds has never been of any use for me, I simply don't move gcodes between machines. What I normally do though is adding the nozzle size (if not 0.4) and adding the plastic type if not PLA. I would write "600um_ABS_Ultimakerrobot" for a 0.6 mm ABS print.
  6. That question was probably not ment for me, but just the past few days I had two persons basically asking me what is wrong with the Cura development lately, because of various bugs that leads to odd behavior and stability issues in recent Cura versions. Personally I have had to roll back to using Ultimaker 2 machines and Cura 15.04 several times lately because all those excessive travels in later versions of Cura ruins the surface quality of objects that I want a nice surface on. When it comes to Cura features, even experienced users who I talk to are unaware of what are suitable settings for printing a vase or what ironing is for example. Just a simple function where the user identifies the object from a list and Cura then applies a few suitable settings (like 0% infill, solid bottom and spiralize for a vase, or slow outer shell speed and a minimum of infill for a sculpture) would be nice in my opinion because: - It would make it much easier to explain for others how to get good printing quality for certain objects. - The Cura-team could stop trying to find "one size fits all" settings for the printing variables. Just have a general setting with works decent and then tweak the parameters for certain types of objects instead.
  7. In my opinion there are two main issues with Cura currently: - There are way too many releases and while there are bug fixes in each of them, there also seems to pop up new bugs in every release. I would prefer much fewer releases with a minimum of new bugs, more testing before releasing and more focus on removing bugs so that we get to a reasonably bug free version. - While many of the new features in these frequent releases are very nice and useful the interface of Cura is currently too complex. So the majority of the users will never take advantage of things like Ironing or Spiralize, even though it would improve their prints, simply because they are not aware of the functions or how/when to use them. Until someone invents a simple way of finding these functions, like a menu where people select the type of object being printed and Cura applies suitable functions for that type of printing (like a one click "Vase mode" for example), it makes little sense to continue adding new features like these. Time would be better spent in fixing essential bugs then, since it will improve the experience for all users.
  8. If you want to design your own syringe extruder you can make one which consists of very few parts if you base it on linear stepper motor. We made the one for out delta printer in the picture using this motor: https://www.elfa.se/en/linear-stepper-motor-moons-16hy7001-11/p/15446018?queryFromSuggest=true You could probably attach such extruder to the existing print head using the print head screws.
  9. Well, the properties of ABS filaments vary quite a lot and the Ultimaker "ABS" is even a blend of ABS, PC and PET, supposedly to make it easier to print. For a pure ABS on the UM2+ I would use the following settings/tricks: - Print temperature 255-260 C - Bed temperature 95-100 C - Fans off (unless the model is really tiny). - Properly cleaned glass plate with two tin layers of Tesa Easy Stick glue. - Some sort of front cover for the printer if the model takes more than a few hours to print. That said, I have found some really cheap Chinese ABS to be almost unprintable while other more expensive ABS can print fine already at 235 C, so it can vary quite a bit..
  10. As long as the surface of the build plate is at the right level, the automatic leveling should in theory work with any material. Here is a printable tool to set the correct distance: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool That said, the automatic leveling measures the (changes in) capacitance between the print head sensor and the build plate and a metal build plate is likely to generate a much larger capacitance than the original glass plate. Even though it should theoretically still detect when capacitance no longer changes because the nozzle hit the build plate it is possible that a metal surface simply creates out of range capacitance readings.
  11. Carbon fiber filaments certainly do damage the knurled wheel on the Ultimaker machines, I have photos somewhere but I can not locate them right now. Anyway you will see wear already after a kilo and after 2 kilos you are likely to start getting feeding problems if the spring is on the default 50% setting, 4 kilos and it will be really worn. A hardened bondtech type feeder wheel lasts more like 20 kg or so before it needs to be replaced.
  12. I don't know where they get it from, but most toothed washers should do the job in your case. Just check that the sensor/heater are properly fixed after tightening the screw. Things are a bit different when you mass produce machines, extra safety margins are always helpful there.
  13. Ultimaker-blocks also has the toothed washer but they use another type with improved design compared to the ones used on the initial (and 3DSolex) blocks. It looks roughly like this: You need some sort of toothed washer there for the sensor/heater to stay safely in place! The screw is a stainless countersunk M3x16 mm. Ultimaker/3DSolex uses a Philips drive, but I actually prefer to use a hex head screw I used on the initial batch.
  14. Strange, this forum has always had like 5-10 times the loading time for me compared to other forum softwares. It does not matter what platform or Internet connection I use or which continent I am using it from, still way much slower than I demand for comfortable browsing. The speed has not changed lately for me, so appearance of the new (fast) forum should not be related
  15. Wow, that is a bit scary. I doubt there are any serious issues with the design of the Olsson block, but it is certainly a strange coincidence.
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