DidierKlein
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Posts posted by DidierKlein
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You should be able to select the brim/raft extruder. If you don't see the setting it may be hidden you can add settings by clicking on the gear (advanced settings)
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And did it happen suddenly or did you for example take the feeder motor away? (could be a pinched cable).
You can check connections on the mainboard also.
If everything seems good then you should probably replace the endswitch (contact your reseller)
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if you move the head in the front right,
Prepare to click the y switch with your finger (or a screw driver)
Then home the head (using the controller).
Before it reaches the home position click the switch it should stop going to the y direction.
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Hi Steve, thanks for the detailed explanation!
These are things you learn when you 3d print your own designs, at first you will not think about it, but then you will have some issues like strength or overhangs. Then after a while you will automatically think about how it will be 3d printed and this will affect how you design something.
Really usefull to have your tips and tricks, for example i had no idea that filets where not as strong as an angled face, i will try to keep that in mind
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D'ailleurs j'ai loupé ton sujet je voulais savoir si ça allait on dirait bien que oui ?
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Oui je l'ai sur mon site ici:
En théorie vous pouvez demander ces pièces à tout les revendeurs
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Bonjour Kylian,
Pas grand chose à voir sur ta vidéo... le mieux c'est d'aller sur un groupe pour la cr10, ici c'est plutôt pour Ultimaker.
Première chose à faire c'est de vérifier les connections à mon avis (plateau et carte). C'est probablement un problème de sonde
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thread should be M6 if im not wrong?
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One more thing, regarding quality control.
I know that all printers are very well controlled, and that all of them have one test print or two (the actual sample that is shipped with all printers).
So is there some kind of more in depth tests done on random printers? I mean would it happen that some printers get more print hours than others before being sent to distributors?
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Look here:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus
PART 2313 should be the standard 0.4mm nozzle (can't check the file right now).
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Ultimaker original?
2+?
3 ?
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Hi and welcome,
What nozzle?
I didn't check but it might be in step files on the Ultimaker github?
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if it's the y switch, it should be activated by the axle. You can pop it out of the sliders and move it a bit so it touches.
Don't move it to far or it might touch the z rods
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I have a question regarding transport boxes.
As we all know, transporters are not known to be really gentle with what they transport. So i'm wondering how is the transport case for the printers designed? Is it tested (punched, kicked, thrown etc...).
I guess it's kind of expensive but the foam box for the 2go is really great, would it be adaptable to the S5 for example?
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Hi and welcome,
Looks like the endstops are not triggered when homing.
Check if they are activated (you can do this by sliding the head with your hand in both directions (x and y) and reaching the home position.
You should hear a clicking sound, if not then check why it's not touched
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Maybe you should ask on user groups or facebook pages for the tronxy printers, i'm pretty sure you can find more experienced users there
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Hard to say like that because i don't know the TronXY printer
Check anything that could be blocking extrusion or the Z part, if possible make your z go up and down a few times and check if anything seems to block or skip
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Hi and welcome,
What printer is it (you can add that to your profile).
As it's always on the same height it's most probably hardware related and not software (i mean not slicing issue).
Check the Z-Screw or maybe print a simple model (like a cube) to check if the problem occurs at the same height, analyse what is happening.
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On peut éteindre le buché du coup ?
Et oui c'est une super communauté ici, la plupart des gens sont très sympa et prêt à aider... ça arrive de temps en temps qu'un membre défonce son imprimante à coup de masse mais c'est très rare heureusement ?
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Ca pourrait venir d'une inconsistance dans le diamètre du filament bleu peut être?
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Pour information les volumes d'impressions réels sont bien indiqués sur le site (en fonction de la ou des buses utilisées)
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Bonjour,
La buse de 0.8mm te permet de faire des murs qui demandent deux passages d'une buse de 0.4mm donc tu gagne en temps d'impression, en général c'est plutot utile pour du prototypage rapide, ou la qualité de finition n'est pas forcément importante.
A noter que tu peux imprimer en 0.1mm avec une buse de 0.8mm, donc tu peux garder de la qualité quand même avec. Perso je préfères les buses de 0.6 (sur um2) ça n'existe pas sur la 3 malheureusement...
En gros tu utiliseras probablement plus de matière avec la 0.8mm vu que le mieux c'est quand même de faire deux parois donc plus de matière
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I don't think it's possible
How to choose the Raft Base Extruder.
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
I'm not really familiar with rafts, can you show the settings for the extruders ? Raft brim etc...