codeczombie

You totally got the point, gr5, those videos show what's happening and what I tried to explain with my limited english. I'll run some tests tomorrow with your settings. When I ordered my UM2 some months ago, I also bought 4 spools of filament but, guess what, at the time they delivered the printer, both PLA and ABS where unavailable, so now it's more than 1 month that I'm waiting for new filament and I'm using a spool they sent me for testing with the printer. So, after they changed the backorder for the filament from "beginning of april" to "end of april", I went on Colorfabb and bought 2 spools of white PLA, I just got a mail from Colorfabb where they say that they just shipped the order, if I only knew before, I wouldn't have lost all this time waiting for the filament from Ultimaker. BTW, as soon as I get the new filament, I'll try some new prints. Thanks for the link and infos.

OK, this is the print at 0.1mm Layer thickness. As you can see, no improvements and an overall quality drop due to the lower resolution at 0.1mm. I cooled the nozzle at 190°C, bed was back at 70°C as usual. Top of the rock is OK, 190°C + cool head lift worked properly. But for the overhangs it didn't help that much. Fact is that, while printing the lower part of the rock, you can clearly see that the piece will come out messy because it's like rubber or "chewing gum" being "moved" by the nozzle, it doesn't stand flat but it raises a bit so when the nozzle makes its turn and come back to the beginning of the layer, it pushes it down, this for the whole round. At this point I really don't know what to do.

Well, updates. These is the latest print according to IRobertI and Didier suggestions. The biggest improvement is on the rock (yep, it's a rock, Gr5) due to the Cool Head Lift but it messed with the filament that was keeping to extrude a little while waiting the cooling and each time the nozzle was going back to the piece, it left a small amount of filament on the side of the rock (I had to remove it manually, but no big deal, compared to the previous). I still have the overhangs issues, as suspected from Gr5. BTW: - Increasing the thickness and avoiding the infill was OK. - Cooling the temperature to 200°C was OK, since I notice a smoother surface (see nose) than the other print at 215°C. - 60°C bed temperature didn't look to help. At the moment I'm printing at the same settings as the latest one but at 0.1mm layer thickness as suggested by Gr5. Will post the results in an hour or so, but if this is the problem, I'm doomed, since I need the highest resolution possible in order to give me less work for the post-production treatments (see days of sanding). Thanks!

Thanks for the hints. I'm now printing a test with settings as you both suggested. - bed 60°C - nozzle 200°C (except for the bottom layer, which I usually print at 230°C for a better adhesion, as suggested by Gr5). - 0 infill (very curious to know how it will end up) - 0.8 Top/bottom thickness (before was 0.6) - cool head lift enabled "Unfortunately" I have to print at these (small) sizes so 0.04 makes a difference (compared to 0.06) since the finished piece must be really smooth and the last one I did I had to sand it for 3 days to get a smooth finish. I'll let you know in a couple of hours.

Hello, I'm pretty ok with everything when printing stuff, I can deal with huge printing time (part of the game) but when it comes to overhangs, there come the nightmares. So I did a "pre-print test" to check if the slight overhang that even Cura didn't bother to mark (see image) was a problem (as usual) or not. I did the first print at 50mm/s speed and came out pretty awful on the stone's ovehangs and then I tried at the same settings but at 30mm/s speed. It obviously improved on the "bump" side, but the overhangs came out almost the same, or even worst, not to mention the "melted" top of the stone. At the moment I don't know what to do to manage this stuff, any hints or help would be very appreciated. These were the settings, for 215°C nozzle temp and 70°C bed temp.

Yep, Burki, from the screenshot that's what I thought it was a bit strange, plus the timing. I knew about the multiple of the nozzle but, Support material or not, if set at 0.06, compare to all the other thicknesses, printing time becomes less than half. I'm guessing (I'm printing now at that thickness) that it just put the thickness at 0.4, since I'm noticing that on the shell the nozzle makes just one pass. But I'm just guessing. Thanks Daid, I just got into 3D printing and I find Cura a great piece of software, I didn't find this issue in other threads so I was just asking. One feature that would be pretty useful would be to set the internal grid, with a 5% fill density, sometimes the grid doesn't intersect with the object so it's just empty. Keep up the great work. Cheers.

Hello, when I set the shell thickness at 0.6, the printing time becomes less than half compared to 0.5 or 0.7, also, in the "layers" view mode, the support disappears. Is that a bug or a feature? I also find cura's support system pretty time consuming and, in some cases (raft mostly) kind of impossible to remove from the base of a print. As a newbie, am I missing something?

Hi Paul! great to see you too! I followed your advice and came here just to find the precious help of Gr5 and Illuminarti, in fact you were the reason why I decided to buy an UM2. I thing I messed with the permission settings on my gallery, now you should be able to see the pics. OK, I'll manage to print that holder, problem is that at the moment I just got 1 blu filament, I added 4 plain white when I placed the order but at the time of the shipment it wasn't available, so I'm a bit afraid to finish the filament and that holder looks pretty filament consuming. (No prob for the bearings, I do skateboarding since 1985 ) One question, is there a reason why you disconnected the black tube from the bowden tube??

Thanks Illuminarti, I lowered the bed, then it was too low, then I raised it a bit, then it was too much, then lowered again and this bed levelling is making me crazy, also, same bed leveling, 2 different settings for the print, both with the same bottom layer > one doesn't even extrude because the nozzle **almost** scratch the glue, another one looks like the bed is too low and the filament doesn't even reach the surface so it doesn't stick on it, damn, sometimes I think I should've been a farmer. This is the latest re-print I did after the previous I posted, I tried to change some parameters in order to have gain some time, so now I'm reprinting it using a thicker wall and stuff.. I'll post the infos later. cheers, Alessandro

Hello, so the latest print went (regarding the final result) perfect. I'm a bit concerned about an eventual "overextrusion" for the bottom layer, should I lower a bit the plate? These were the settings: Here are stages and the result: I had to unload and reload the filament due to a previous underextrusion on the very first layer, found out that the filament was stuck and didn't came out properly, so the loader "eroded" the filament blocking the regular flow. ps.:"sorry for my poor english".

Once again, thank you very much, that topic explains a lot of issues I had. At the moment I'm using this procedure: • Print only 1 model (realistic face) name the test with a code, 00404a then 00404b and so on (LayerShell thickness) • Screenshot all the settings then take photos of the various stages during the printing. • Take notes if needed (at the moment I don't need since I'm using 235°>210°C for the nozzle and 70°C for the plate). At the moment I'm printing a 0.04mm just to check, it looks like it's coming out pretty well, I've seen some little bumps on the side that, now that I check that thread, I think are due to a speed issue, maybe I should slower it a bit more (I'm printing at 25, after this, if it's close to the sample I posted previously, I'll print it again changing just the speed to 20). I'll keep posting results.

Hi, thank you both for your effort in helping me out. I tried to upload pics directly from the "image button" here but it didn't work so I thought it was a "new user limitation" since I'm still achieving the "4 approved posts" to avoid approval procedure. Now it's clear so I did as you told me, gr5. I'm searching in previous posts but sometimes it's hard (for me) to know which keyword I should use since I don't know the exact technical terminology, if you already posted infos, it will be perfect for me if you can just tell me "search *this topic* on the forum" as you did now, don't worry, for me it's already a big help and I don't want to steal too much time. In the first day I did some basic test and I tried the 0.04 print which came out with a resolution that it would be just perfect for me. Bad thing is that I didn't take note (as I'm doing now with screenshots and photos) so I don't remember what I just did to achieve this level of resolution: Is there a way to know how the "High Quality Print" settings of Cura when using in "Quickprint" mode? (I didn't find anywhere).

Hello Sander, thanks for your answer, I'll try to answer point by point: > In regard of warping I think you should also clean your glass plate after several prints I'm cleaning the plate every 2 to 3 prints to be sure it's not a glue/grease/dirt problem, I'll be more careful then. >When have you received your Ultimaker 2? 3 days ago. > Could you send me your serial number in a DM? Thanks Of course. > Is your Ultimaker extruding / oozing before your print starts? Yes. At the moment it looks like there are no loading issues, but I keep helping the feeding by hand, just to be sure. I'll post some photos next, after I run the next print test at 0.04. The latest one, at 0.06 went pretty correct, as you can see here, I'm just a bit concerned about the spots pointed by the red arrow, since I don't know if it's normal or not. These were the settings of this print, I also did as suggested by Gr5 putting the nozzle temperature for the bottom layer at 230°C and 70°C for the plate during the whole print, then 210°C for the nozzle. > Or are you perhaps starting your print without any pressure > in the nozzle and this is being build up through the beginning of your print? > Is it always just the bottom that is underextruding > or only the beginning you have to help feeding the filament manually? When I see that it's underextruding the bottom layer, I usually abort the print. I didn't use the BRIM in this latest print, but the previous I did came out always like this one, is it normal or should it be less "spaghetti-like" and more like a plat uniform thin layer? Thank you very much, Alessandro

Sorry George, I got somehow carried away by the situation. ;D I did the levelling 3 or 4 times today, problem is that I don't know how much is "barely tight" or "a bit resistance" so I never know if I'm doing it right. For the 1mm is OK, but then, when it comes to "the paper" what kind of paper should I use? There are many different kinds, I'm using a regular photocopier paper, is it ok? After that, I went running some tests, I had very bad underextrusion issues (some were so "under" that it didn't even extrude) but in the end it looks like I've found a decent "balance" starting from the default advanced settings, with custom settings and your advices about the first layer temperature/speed settings. The model I'm printing now, I used your temperature hints without the brim and it looks like there are no warping issues, pretty happy about it, thanks. I'm using Cura so I changed the temperature between the first layer and the rest of the print manually in the settings on the printer, since I didn't find how to manage it from Cura (looks like I'm n00bing strong). So, here is a photo of the back of the printer after you told me I moved the filament onto the floor. I'm now printing something at 0.06 but my goal is to print at 0.04 at a decent print-time, am I asking too much? If I don't bother, I'll post some results along with settings screenshots and infos. Thank you so much for your precious infos. cheers, Alessandro

Hello Gr5, thanks for your prompt answer. I'm using regular blu PLA from Ultimaker. I usuallu set the printer this way: Layer Height from 0.04 to 0.06 (I need resolution) Print speed from 35 to 50 (never more than 50) Print temperature 210°C (as default) At the moment, since I help the loader manually, I don't have this issue anymore, but http://cl.ly/image/140o0w2r2y3x, the first line is always not very clear and I think I'm having a little underextrusion on the bottom layer. Meanwhile (it's printing now) I can see some warping on the base. I did some tests with the brim and I still had warping issues. I really can't find out why I'm having this problems, I tend to avoid the rafting because it's very difficult to clean up in the end. Thank in advice. cheers, Alessandro

Hi, I just got my brand new UM2 and it's doing way better than expected in terms of resolution. I'm very happy about the results of my first tests but there's a little issue with the material loader, sometimes. When I start a new print, sometimes I see that it doesn't "feed" properly the filament so each time I have to be sure that it works good by helping it pushing the filament up the feeder, then it's ok for the rest of the print but on some prints I did in the beginning, before I realized it was this kind of issue, the loader eroded the filament (like a small bite on the side of it) stopping the flow. Is there something I can check/do in order to avoid/solve this issue?? BTW, I was astonished by the results of a 0.04 print, I couldn't believe the quality of the print, way better than some prints I did at shapeways using the SLS system. Great job, Ultimaker. cheers, Alessandro