printedman
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Posts posted by printedman
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Mainly the travel speed in the advanced section. Set it to 150mm/s.
So what is the different between travel speed and print speed ? Thanks.
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Cool head lift will *only* improve the 2 antennas. You can get even better antenna improvement by printing 2 robots side by side. The problem is they are so small they don't have time to cool as the nozzle is making physical constant contact and keeps them above melting temp. With "cool head lift" or by printing 2 robots the nozzle moves away long enough for it to cool. These are tiny improvements as they only affect the antenna.
You didn't answer the question about travel speed. What was your print speed and what was your travel speed?
I got the speed from Cura. At the Basic setting tab," Print Speed (mm/s) 30" . Advanced Tab, Travel speed (mm/s). So which is the one am I suppose to ensure correct? Please advice, thanks.
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You will have to activate "full settings" (Expert -> Switch to full settings...). Then go into the expert settings (Expert -> Open expert settings... CTRL+E).
There you will find the "cool head lift" feature in the "Cool" settings.
I have change to Expert setting and in Expert config tick the Cool head lift. default setting is:
Fan full on at height (mm) 1
Fan speed min (%) 100
Fan speed max (%) 100
Minimum speed (mm/s) 10
So do I need to change any setting? Please advice, thanks.
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I assume you mean 30mm/s print speed, not travel speed. Travel speed is the speed your UM2 uses when moving between printing. Travel speed should be 150mm/s or even higher.
Actually 210°C is ok for PLA, however you might even lower it a bit, maybe to 200°C if you're really printing @ 30mm/s. Or you could increase the print speed while staying @ 210°C to something like 50mm/s.
Lowering the temperature is also what you should do for improving the antennae. I suggest you use the TweakAtZ plugin which is part of Cura 14.03 and change the temperature to 190°C at the height where the antennae begin.
I got the speed from Cura. At the Basic setting tab," Print Speed (mm/s) 30" . Advanced Tab, Travel speed (mm/s). So which is the one am I suppose to ensure correct? Please advice, thanks.
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Upgraded to Cura - 14.03-MacOS.dmg. Thank you.
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Good progress so far!
Have you tried the "cool head lift" feature yet? This should help with the antennae.
Nope. How can I do that? Please advice? Thank you.
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After all the great advice, my second print.
Extruder Temp 210
Bed Temp 60
Travel Speed 30
Flow 100%
Fill 20%
Layer height 0.1
Shell thickness 0.8
2nd printing
Side by Side
Big improvment. Please advice how to make it better. Whats my next step. Thank you so much. :mrgreen:
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Is it normal for the Ultimaker2 rear fan to come on once we on the UM2?
And I can't find any detail in the UM2 manual on detail of of setting the UM2. Any Idea where can I find it? thanks
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Stick the filament in a plastic container with a lid.. and inside place an open bag of rice
Cheap option 
Can I cook the rice after use? :mrgreen:
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Does condition in different country make a different? Is there a way to test if the ABS or PLA is bad ?
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I am new to Ultimaker 2. Just starting to learn how to use it. The firmware on the UM2 is Version 14.01.2.
So, should I upgrade it to 14.02?
Will it complicate my learning?
I am now use Cura 14.02. If I don't upgrade the firmware, will it create issue in printing?
Please advice, thank you.
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The default settings are, so I seem to remember: 210 / 75 & 50mm/S.
Actually, it should not look so scary with it. Not even with original UM filament.
Adjust the nozzle distance to the bed again.
Try it successively with:
* 205-210 / 65 / 30mm/S
210-220 / 65 / 40mm/S
220-230 / 65 / 50mm/S
* The first attempt should already show a good result. And for the quality improvement of Robot right ear You still have slower print, 18-25mm/S.
Markus
Where to set the temperature?
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Can we tell if ABS or PLA is bad without actually printing it? I have a roll of ABS which break easily when i bend it. Is it bad?
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OK. got you now. Thanks. :mrgreen:
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You can use either or both. Personally I use the knob on the front first, if I can't get it to where I want it I fine tune with the back screw.
Hi, thanks for replying. My confuse part is this:
1st round
When leveling the build plate you must follow
the step 4/21 until 10/21 on the display where the
first step 4/21 control the height by
rotating this button. to get 1mm.
In the step 5/21 you rotate this left build
plate screw under the build plate to control the
height between the nozzle and the build plate.
In 6/21 you adjust a similar build plate screw on
the right hand side.
2nd round "Fine Tune"
With a piece of paper.
There is 3 screw below the build plate. 2 in front and 1 behind.
So my question is:
For this part, do I still turn the rear with the rotating button or the screw below the build plate?
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Frankly, my filament lies around somewhere in the vicinity of my printer. So far i have never had any problems.
My is hanging around too. :mrgreen:
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1st round of the process for the rear we use the rotating button to adjust. For front left and right we use the build plate screw below it. Now for the next round "Fine Tune" front left and right same screw below the build plate. But for the rear do we use the screw below the build plate or the rotating button? Please assist, thank you.
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Electric dry cabinet, like those for camera eqm. Good place for keeping our filament PLA and ABS dry n good?
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TO TEST SIDE FANS:
1) Select PRINT (even though you won't be printing anything).
2) Before anything heats up go to TUNE menu. Printing will not start until you exit TUNE menu.
3) In the tune menu set fan speed to 100%, they should start spinning immediately.
4) When done you can either hit the power switch, or exit tune menu and quickly abort the print before it starts.
Got it. Fan running. Thanks
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That's how the robot looks if you use no fan. Did the side fans come on by the 5th layer?
Important settings related to perfect overhangs (like the robot's ear and belly overhang).
1) Fan at 100% by 5mm for sure - this is probably default but test that the fans work. You can test them without printing by telling it to print and then before it starts printing go to TUNE menu and turn them on there.
2) Bed at 65C max. For this part I would use bed temp of 60C. 75C is only useful on very large parts (>100mm across) that have warping issues.
3) Keep nozzle cool also. 220C should be fine but if you still have issues, you could try 210C.
4) Layer time - did you have infill on? If you had 20% infill then that means each layer had plenty of time to cool which is good. But if you printed a hollow robot then you need to slow things down - maybe set minimum layer time to 10 seconds instead of the default of... 5? 7?
5) Print slower - quality always improves as you go slower. Usually you can get excellent quality at 30mm/sec and okay quality at 100mm/sec. But the slower you go the better the quality.
Where is this "TUNE Menu" ?
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Hi printed.man
If you look from the rear of the printer ( stand near the filament ), you will see a third fan on the back of the head.
Skint, thank you so much..
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In particular, make sure that the rear fan is on all the time, and the side fans come on by a few mm into the print. For best results on the antennae, print a couple of the robots at once, so each layer takes longer, and has time to cool.
Hi, thanks for your advice. Which is the Rear fan? Both fan are on the side of the print head from what i see. Please advice. Thank you.
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Hi, thanks for your advice. I guess I misunderstand the manual. It says "Rotate the button until the nozzle is a millimetre away from the buildplate" and I take it as the screw under the buildplate which was in fact referring to the UM2 Rotating button." So now problem solve, thank you.
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Subject : Ultimaker Robot by Aike
Printer Setting: PLA Default
Slice by Cura 14.03 Mac OS
Link to the file: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-robot
The print looks horrible, can anyone tell me why? Thank you.
My Print:
Cheap option 
Surface looks a lot worse in Cura 14.03
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Test 2 no MacOS version?