cgbobio

Sorry about that, I printed out about 5 copies of the part and my friend took them to his mechanic. It was a day or so before I got a phone call back that they worked on the 1st try. I did use the original broken part (the black one in the photo) to take measurements to model a replacement, but beyond the modeling and printing of the part, I was not involved in the install.

I modeled this replacement part for a friend's Land Rover door lock mechanism. When the original part broke, the alarm system disabled the ignition and the car would not start. Research found that the part was not available by itself, my friend would have had to buy the entire door lock mechanism for over $200 US! Thank goodness for my Ultimaker 2, about an hour of my time and he was back on the road!

UPDATE:: Tech support has contacted me about my problem and have already shipped a new part! Thanks so very much to member illuminarti for all the help! Looking forward to getting up and printing again!

Anyone have this problem? I disassembled my hotend after several failed attempts of cleaning it with the atomic method. PLA was stuck in the threads of the hotend and the coupler that attaches to it. Once I cleaned the plastic out, I tried to reassemble the head and it started cross threading... I stopped and submitted a support ticket, but also figured I would post here for suggestions. Should I retap the head and coupler or wait to see what tech support says to do?

Selmo, I had the same issue after my first few prints, the entire gear fell off! I used blue Loctite on the screw and have not had an issue since.

Some more shots of the prints in PLA for my friend at Crazybricks.com that he used to promote his Kickstarter campaign.

No worries Skint, it didn't bother me one bit! Those were some nice looking prints, were they PLA or ABS?

Some recent prints I've done in PLA for my friend's Kickstarter campaign. He creates custom Lego accessories for minifigs and sells them at Lego conventions and online. These prints are for showing at the Lego convention in Chicago next month. The Snare drum is something I am doing for myself. I am attempting to re-create my entire DW drumset in miniature so I can create myself as a Bobblehead playing them! Will post pics as I do more.

I use an epoxy putty called Propoxy20. It comes in a grey tube and you slice off small pieces then knead them together to activate the epoxy. You have to work fast and press the putty into the seams with a putty knife... fill the seams, but try and get as much off as you can, otherwise you'll be sanding it forever when it dries. The primer helps to show where you missed and gives a nice base coat for the paint. I feather it out onto the statue about 3-5mm to either side of the seam so I can blend it better.

Been busy printing the Venus De Milo at 19" in PLA! Took me around 3 days of printing, but I didn't print while I was sleeping. Also scanned my face with a Next Engine 3D scanner and printed a small head. Eventually planning on making myself into a bobblehead.

Thanks illuminarti! Thats what I thought. Had to clear the nozzle after switching to a thicker PLA and found that increasing the temps while printing help to keep the nozzle clear. Printing a Venus De Milo statue from Thingaverse right now...

Had to clear my nozzle last night with this method after switching from the Ultimaker PLA to a 3mm PLA I purchased from Makershed. After clearing the nozzle I noticed that the part below the spring/teflon piece doesn't seem to be touching the bottom metal plate... Should it be making comtact with this plate? It would seem that the thermal paste (if thats what it is) on the ring with the screw holes was meant to be in contact with the lower plate...

Thanks! Here are some shot from today's print of a 100mm head with no infill... call me crazy, I just wanted to see if it would hold up or not!

Just a few images from my album of stuff I have printed with my new Ultimaker 2! These were all printed with the roll of PLA that shipped with my printer from the factory. I use a temp of 210C for the head and 60C for the bed. Glue stick works great for me at holding the models to the build platform, but I have stated using brimm on the smaller footprint models for better adhesion. Have been trying different print resolutions and speeds to see what effects I can get as well. I modeled the Cylon head in 3Dstudio max and used Zbrush to perfect the mesh. The piano and robot were downloaded, the rest were modeled by a friend and printed by me.

Very kind of you somewhereinla! I have built a Rostock max printer from a kit so I know what is involved, I am just upset that a kit that came pre-assembled at a higher cost could have overlooked these things. At some point I think I just might go through the entire printer and locktite all the important set screws. I am currently printing a little 3" figure on the low quality setting in PLA and am really pleased with the output. I will post images when I can.