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tmrevlje

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Posts posted by tmrevlje

  1. Yep, that's how I did it. Excess blobs of plastic get stuck to the mouth of the nozzle or the outsides many times as they solidify with cooling. More then not they're not easily removed just by "scraping" or fingers or anything. So you do have to heat up the nozzle and just gently wipe it off with a paper towel or a piece of paper. Be aware though, the nozzle heats up pretty high and the heat gets through the paper towel or paper pretty fast. Watch your fingers ;)

     

    • Like 1
  2. Hi Andrea,

    with the pyramid it looks like overhang issues, with the vase I would say stringing is an issue. The first thing you can do is check this http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide made by Robert. You can find all or most of the common issues when getting to know the 3D printing world.

    Other then that, I am sure you will get a more detailed answer from some of the more experienced guys ;) soon enough.

     

  3. What software are you using to convert DICOM CT files to STL? I have tried invesalius and 3DSlicer, but I'm still having to do a lot of cleanup to get manifold models.

     

    Hi jhertzberg,

    we are using 3MENSIO programme - http://www.3mensio.com/ that has a module for exporting DICOM files to STL. It is sadly not free software and the export isn't that easy either.

    I have spoken to a guy on thingieverse who did an DICOM - STL conversion fairly good and he said he uses Invesalius that you also mentioned. I personally have not gotten to explore that particular piece of software yet, but I plan to. OsiriX (Mac only) is suppose to do a good job too, but is not that easy to use (so I've heard).

    The STL database (japanese) that Jemma is mentioning you can find here:

    http://lifesciencedb.jp/bp3d/

    It's a good site, with many body parts made into STL files. Not all of them though ;)

    Enjoy

     

  4. ...

    If I´m alowed to give a suggestion:

    I would suggest to start with some kind of requirement collection/list first to get the whishes of everybody involved, then select the basic type (e.g. quad, hexa, octo, v-tail, ..), calculate the requied trust, select the suitable components and then go into the final (real) design...

     

    What drayson said.

     

  5. Thanks for this extensive testing of the model with Colorfabb's XT material, just as you said the number 6 and 8 do seem best, I would go for number 6. Will use your settings and try it with the "Transparent Red" I received from Colorfabb.

    Will also most certainly invest in a spool or two of the XT, it seems a material to be played with, capable of achieving some really cool results.

    Looking forward to your results with the translucent green and blue.

     

  6. Hmmm thanks KreativGeek, did not see that link. Was only looking at the one I posted in my post. Sorry then, my bad :???:

    Thanks for pointing it out ;)

    Has to be an awesome material to print then... on the To-Buy-Next list.

    P.S. Mind you, they could have added a similar description in the "pre-Add-to-Cart" stage though, wouldn't that kinda make sense?

     

  7. http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester

    Excuse me Robert, not trying to get into an argument with you, but on the link above (which is the product page for XT-COPOLYESTER) for the product that we are discussing currently there is not one word about Transparent, yet alone mentioning it 7 times... There's isn't anything to miss as the property of transparency just isn't mentioned on that page ;)

    Even after your post I went to use the Ctrl+F function and typed in Transparent, not one hit, just because you made me second guess my vision.

    Simple misunderstanding, as you thought we are discussing Faberdashery's Crystal Clear, while in fact we were discussing Colorfabb's XT :p

    Peace

     

  8. Yea that's what I also thought at first looking at the picture at their website, but I am almost certain if this material had properties like transparency, they would have at least mention it in the description or even name it as such. Would make sense to me...

    Looks transparent though.

     

  9. What's the best see-through material in the PLA range guys? Is it even possible to achieve the best possible transparency, considering you have layers, which make it very difficult to "see through" a printed object. I don't see anything apart from the Transparent Red at Colorfabb, Faberdashery has this "Crystal Clear" one @ http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/print-materials/crystal-clear/ but does any one have any experiences with it? Is it really crystal clear?

     

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