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tmrevlje

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Everything posted by tmrevlje

  1. Yep, that's how I did it. Excess blobs of plastic get stuck to the mouth of the nozzle or the outsides many times as they solidify with cooling. More then not they're not easily removed just by "scraping" or fingers or anything. So you do have to heat up the nozzle and just gently wipe it off with a paper towel or a piece of paper. Be aware though, the nozzle heats up pretty high and the heat gets through the paper towel or paper pretty fast. Watch your fingers
  2. Great stuff guys, am missing working with "my" 3D printer. :(
  3. Hi laserb, well the first layer touches the glass buildplate, which is basically the only reason the bottom surface is so smooth and shiny well at least to my knowledge.
  4. Hi Andrea, with the pyramid it looks like overhang issues, with the vase I would say stringing is an issue. The first thing you can do is check this http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide made by Robert. You can find all or most of the common issues when getting to know the 3D printing world. Other then that, I am sure you will get a more detailed answer from some of the more experienced guys soon enough.
  5. Hi jhertzberg, we are using 3MENSIO programme - http://www.3mensio.com/ that has a module for exporting DICOM files to STL. It is sadly not free software and the export isn't that easy either. I have spoken to a guy on thingieverse who did an DICOM - STL conversion fairly good and he said he uses Invesalius that you also mentioned. I personally have not gotten to explore that particular piece of software yet, but I plan to. OsiriX (Mac only) is suppose to do a good job too, but is not that easy to use (so I've heard). The STL database (japanese) that Jemma is mentioning you can find here: http://lifesciencedb.jp/bp3d/ It's a good site, with many body parts made into STL files. Not all of them though Enjoy
  6. damn that's a nice bracelet pm_dude
  7. Yea this is a very cool topic, kudos to you Jemma. I am currently on a short project where we're using MRI, CT and OCT scan 3D data to print out various structures of the human body, we have plans for the future to go into a more human body friendly printing. I see you're already on it looking very much forward to your future updates and posts.
  8. Just found a solution on the forum for Meshmixer users. Either you delete the meshmixer.ini file every now and then or you should check your settings in the under "Supports" the ratios between scale and support upper and lower diameters, if they're really screwed Meshmixer kinda doesn't know what to do with it and just gives up The whole read @ http://meshmixer.com/forum/index.php?topic=1772.msg3960#msg3960
  9. Thinking like 0.1 or even up to 0.2 and higher?
  10. Well that's encouraging since I have 3 spools of Natural's on the shelf and I won't have to wait for the XT, but this is translucent vs. transparent I'm thinking off to testing, will post results when I'm done.
  11. Thanks for this extensive testing of the model with Colorfabb's XT material, just as you said the number 6 and 8 do seem best, I would go for number 6. Will use your settings and try it with the "Transparent Red" I received from Colorfabb. Will also most certainly invest in a spool or two of the XT, it seems a material to be played with, capable of achieving some really cool results. Looking forward to your results with the translucent green and blue.
  12. Yep you're right, again my mistake - sorry, will dig deeper next time before coming here with questions thanks
  13. thanks pm_dude if you would be so kind, could you test print this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:175065 and post the results for me, mind you it would be super cool if you could chop off the upper and lower layer with an infill of 0% obviously and stick something inside after it's printed, like a piece of filament of a different colour, so I can see how transparent XT really is.. Cheers!
  14. Hmmm thanks KreativGeek, did not see that link. Was only looking at the one I posted in my post. Sorry then, my bad :???: Thanks for pointing it out Has to be an awesome material to print then... on the To-Buy-Next list. P.S. Mind you, they could have added a similar description in the "pre-Add-to-Cart" stage though, wouldn't that kinda make sense?
  15. http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester Excuse me Robert, not trying to get into an argument with you, but on the link above (which is the product page for XT-COPOLYESTER) for the product that we are discussing currently there is not one word about Transparent, yet alone mentioning it 7 times... There's isn't anything to miss as the property of transparency just isn't mentioned on that page Even after your post I went to use the Ctrl+F function and typed in Transparent, not one hit, just because you made me second guess my vision. Simple misunderstanding, as you thought we are discussing Faberdashery's Crystal Clear, while in fact we were discussing Colorfabb's XT Peace
  16. Yea that's what I also thought at first looking at the picture at their website, but I am almost certain if this material had properties like transparency, they would have at least mention it in the description or even name it as such. Would make sense to me... Looks transparent though.
  17. What's the best see-through material in the PLA range guys? Is it even possible to achieve the best possible transparency, considering you have layers, which make it very difficult to "see through" a printed object. I don't see anything apart from the Transparent Red at Colorfabb, Faberdashery has this "Crystal Clear" one @ http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/print-materials/crystal-clear/ but does any one have any experiences with it? Is it really crystal clear?
  18. Which make take some time :mrgreen:
  19. I confirm that C4D is very usefull for these types of things, also using a shader (with the image of the pattern you want, black/white, depending on what you want extruded) in Displacement settings of the Material can be used for this. Or projection, but that's a bit tricky... - projecting actual vectors on to the surface and adding extrusion.
  20. anon, dude thanks for sharing - awesome project
  21. @ pm_dude That would be an interesting concept... Nice bracelets, love the colours of the material you used. Will shoot for Faberdashery after I go through the Colorfabb materials I bought.
  22. Johny sounds like a challenge - we like challenges
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