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korneel

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Posts posted by korneel

    Ulti-evening 17 November

    in Nederlands

    Posted

    haha dank voor je antwoord op de mail!

    de bowden tube truc heb ik van jullie euspport engineer, dat maakt het plaatsen van de stukken filament makkelijker..

    en qua atomic pull, tja eigen methode..

    ik heb gemerkt dat de pla methode niet even goed werkt.. heb flink wat onderzoek gedaan en allerlei methodes getest, en het komt erop neer dat qua methode, de methode heel goed is, maar het materiaal veel beter kan. ik gebruik nu nylon, en dat werkt echt vele malen beter dan PLA of ABS. is flink fexibel en kan dus ook flink wat meer druk aan. ook lekker plakkerig, dus trekt superveel vuil eraan..

    heb jullie support engineer een voorraadje nylon meegegeven en hij zou het ook eens proberen na mijn demo, ben nog steeds benieuwd naar zijn feedback! (misschien kun jij eens informeren?)

    snap het van de voorraad, we gaan het zien :)

    K.

     

    Ulti-evening 17 November

    in Nederlands

    Posted

    ik kom wel weer eens loeren :)

    als bestelling graag wat onderhoudspakketjes? zijn er eventueel weer complete hot-ends leverbaar? staan in backorder op de website..

    ik zoek ook en klein stukje bowden tube voor de atomic pulls...

     

    Filament aan elkaar lassen

    in Nederlands

    Posted

    er heeft een of andere spanjaard een indiegogo campagne succesvol gelanceerd en heeft een filament fuser gemaakt.. ben zelf ook al flink met lassen aan de gang geweest, maar dit is stiekem wel erg interessant.. 61 euro voor een kant en klaar apparaat.. heb er eentje besteld..

     

    Using new ColorFabb XT Transparent PLA

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    i have now printed over 6 kilos of colored XT using an ultimaker 2...

    i find the material very strong and sturdy. I am using it to print vases. I've also tried printing smaller mechanical parts with it, with lesser succes. the vases come out perfect.

    my settings are printing at 245 degrees, 50mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, fans off and heated bed at 70 degrees. these prints are large prints, about 24 hours of printing, without any hiccups. great material!

     

    easy way to "weld" filaments together?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    So i have a lot of different filaments, and i want to "weld" them together to make sure i not only use as much as i can of the filaments and not let anything go to waste, but also to have some interesting color blends.

    right now, my method is holding both ends into a fire, then pressing them together, melting them, and using a file to get it all nice and smooth. i feel there should be an easier way...

    what methods do you use?

     

    Guidance wanted for replacement parts for UM2

    in Official news

    Posted

    i feel your pain :) hence the topic..

    most likely your teflon insulator needs replacement. when you do a hot pull, is there a bit of a "bubble" on the tip? if so, the teflon insulator needs replacement..

    open the hot end and you can see how it looks.. you can download the installation manaual and compare pictures to the insulator you have...

     

    Guidance wanted for replacement parts for UM2

    in Official news

    Posted

    Hi Nallath;

    fully understood;

    there are a couple of points i want to address though;

    while I understand 3d printing is not at a fully mature level, I also want to say that the UM2 is very much being marketed as "Fully assembled. Imagine it, Make it, Easy. The Ultimaker 2 is open source and designed for the best user experience in 3D printing".

    I think, and also listening to the feedback yesterday evening, it would be a very good idea to send out that guesstimate. I'm a very happy customer, I've always had great customer service and i've experienced Ultimaker to be a very open and addressable company.

    I think the questions that I'm raising, specifically around wear and tear guidance would greatly reduce calls towards your (i believe quite overwhelmed) support department.

    i understand the counter might be delayed because of checks you need to do before releasing it, i'm happy to test and i think it would make a great addition.

     

    Guidance wanted for replacement parts for UM2

    in Official news

    Posted

    so today i attended the ultievening, good evening, good attendance, fantastic explanation by Dirk and Marit, who knew those rods could come loose? very happy with both of them, great additions to the Ultimaker team!

    i asked my replacement guidance question and apparently there are many factors that influence the time between replacements.. there also seems to be a guidance but this was not given at that time..

    me and Dirk did discuss an option that I believe is very viable and should only require little change.

    in the current firmware for the UM2, there is a tracker that keeps track of the number of hours the machine is on, numbers of hours it's printing, and meters of filament it has processed.

    it should be relatively easy to add a tracker for amount of hours printer at temperature X.

    using those details, there should be an easy way to give a partial guidance to when to replace the Teflon piece.. apparently printing at 210 degrees would make it last "forever" but at 260 it would not last very long..

    so why not expand the tracker with the amount of hours printer at temperature X and a nice tracker that says when it might be a good idea to replace your teflon piece?

    after the damage i've had, i'd rather spend the 15 euros (please offer like a 5 pack of those things) replacing it too soon, then replacing the complete head because i replaced it too late...

     

    Guidance wanted for replacement parts for UM2

    in Official news

    Posted

    let me address these points one by one..

    also, I'm not trying to start a discussion between forum members, merely looking for answers to my questions regarding the wear and tear of the machine. so please don't feel i'm trying to disprove any points here :)

     

     

    Korneel, I agree with most of your mail, but the sparepart cost of a makerbot are a trilion times higher ....

    We should al be very happy that the UM2 is easy to maintain by ourself. I do think UM should indeed be more clear on the skills needed to keep the machine running over time...

    I have not tried it myself, and don't plan to but some stuff like the teflon parts are available for cheap on aliexpress.com/ ... I have no idea of the quality .....

     

    I agree with your point that different machines have way higher prices but we have to make a fair comparison. I'm quite lucky living in NL, close to Geldermalsen and Utrecht, and I can go to these ultievenings. I can probably give the Ultimaker team 15 euros and get a Teflon part.. people in different countries don't have this option and they pay 63 dollars.. see below... also, for the Makerbot (which is a PoS.. ) you buy a complete new printhead.. so you buy the complete hotend (70 euros UM2 price), you buy a complete auto-level kit with electronics (15 euros?) and you buy the complete enclosure and cooling assembly (30 euros?) so we are talking realistically 115 to 120 euros versus 175 USD.. now the price difference isn't that high anymore..

    I am very happy that the UM2 is so easy to maintain. i just don't know which parts to maintain when.. I had my Teflon part melt into the hot end.. so i needed to replace the complete hot-end.. if i had known to replace it sooner, that would have saved me a pretty penny. it would have also saved me a boatload of filament that i now wasted because the Teflon part was worn..

    a pessimistic person would say that not having guidance on a 15 euro piece has just cost me well over 150 euros..

     

    I'm still waiting for the prices to go down on the teflon insulators myself. I feel it should be considered a consumable item, meant to be replaced once it starts to become worn. I mean, the part is THE fastest wearing part on the machine from what I've seen first hand.

    If I buy 1 insulator right now, it would cost me $63.81 with shipping. .........yeah.......

    I'd be happy with a bag full of the old ones at $3.00 a piece so I can always have a fresh insulator in the machine.

    That's just my take on it though... Maybe it will be different when fbrc8 starts stocking parts (if they do)

     

    agreed. I'm just trying to find out which pieces are consumables, which ones are not. the ones that are consumables need to have prices alike. if the telfon parts need to replaced every 500 hours, i would expect packages of 5 pieces for a good price since 500 hours isn't that much in all honesty.. with the build volume the UM2 offers that can be reached in just a couple of prints..

     

    Cold pull is very simple. Heat head to 180C or warmer and push in the PLA until a little is coming out the nozzle. Then let it cool to 90C (130C for ABS). Then pull hard back at the feeder. Maybe 10kg of force. If you need more force it's too cold. If you need less than 1KG force it was too hot. Here are 4 successive cold pulls - the first one was slightly too warm but good enough:

    HotPushColdPull.JPG

     

    thank you! this is great guidance! i was using the Atomic method but it just isn't that clear unfortunately.. I think i should start a Wiki that houses all these user tips.

     

    I found a new method that seems to work very good.

    I heat the nozzle up to about 250, insert Nylon (I have 645 but I'm sure other nylon would work too). Push the nylon through until I'm sure the head is nice and full. Then I let cool down to 30~50 C or so. Then I heat BACK up pulling on the filament while it's heating. I think it has something to do with the filament cooling down almost completely and when heating back up, the surface of the filament inside the nozzle heats up before the core, so the core retains its shape and wedges gunk out really well. Combined with the slipperiness of the nylon, it makes for a nice 1-time clean pull.

     

    tried this, went perfect! i first did the PLA atomic method with a white piece of PLA, just to see if there was burned residue in the hot-end. when it kept coming out clean, i tried this method.. took all of the white PLA residu straight out!

     

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