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superflyguy1973

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  1. Ok after look into this when replacing the T1 and T2 transistors T3 looked identical so silly old me replaced that one too. It turns out that one is different Replacement order hopefully it fixes the problem
  2. My Ultimaker 2 has worked perfect ly for years with exception to the led which had blown the T1 or T2 transistor. so i replaced them both and also T3 as it was the same the light now work perfectly. however every time i tried to print or move the bed of print head i would get a ER06 or ER05 or ER07 i have tested the stop switch and my connection sereral time and all it fine. after reading a few posts it suggested reinstalling the firmware , unfortunately it now thinks its the first time i've used the machine and want to calibrate the bed but keep coming up with the errors messages i have tried to connect it the cura via a usb cable but it dose not detect the printer while it stuck in the calibration mode Help i understand you cannot install the firm ware via SD card. Jason
  3. Ok I'm going to play and do some routine maintenance and speed test to know my machine limits will report back with my findings
  4. Hi sorry yes I'm printing abs parts for my old prusa i3', time for a new home. Now I have the ultimaker. I've just run the print again with the same results About halway up the print as the nozzel moves from one part to the next a there's a little bit oosing out, I guess this is because I've increased the temp to 235-240 ans the abs is more fluid, should I be increasing the retract to stop th eos sing between printing parts , it's currently set to 40mm/s dist 4.5 don't know which setting to change' should I increase the speed or the retraction length ? I decided to test the last part I printed and it looks great but if twisted a little it starts to break up, I did the same to a part printed in pla and I couldn't even make a mark on it. So what would be a good test print to check the parts are fusingptogeter correctly. What tempreture do you set your bed to if you print abs at 260, and do you cover the side to make a chamber around the printer.
  5. Have had a Good days printing, I found my prints doing this. Printing at 0.3 @ 235, Bed 110, Speed 60, fan off, noticed on earlier print bonding was not as strong so increased it to 235
  6. UPDATE : Problem has been fixed, The main cause was, I didn't understand that at 100mm/s which is an average speed. if you choose to make your layer height just 0.2mm then the machine would be printing at the absolute max it can cope with. so I use the new settings of Layer height 0.1 Speed 100mm/s = 4mm3/m or Layer height 0.2 Speed 50mm/s = 4mm3/m Both take around 6.5hr to print the handle, There was a little piece of dirt in the Bowden tube, it's now printing great,
  7. UPDATE : Problem has been fixed, The main cause was, I didn't understand that at 100mm/s which is an average speed. if you choose to make your layer height just 0.2mm then the machine would be printing at the absolute max it can cope with. so I use the new settings of Layer height 0.1 Speed 100mm/s = 4mm3/m or Layer height 0.2 Speed 50mm/s = 4mm3/m Both take around 6.5hr to print the handle, There was a little piece of dirt in the Bowden tube, it's now printing great,
  8. I'm printing with abs. So if I understand. I should increase the resolution To 0.1 x 0.4 nozzle at 100mm/s = 4mm/s3 or keep at 0.25 and lower the speed to 40 Which gives the same so the ultimaker std setting of 0.1 layer height x 0.4 nozzle at default 50mm/s. Gives us a 2mm3/s well within a safe margin and keep the 230c for abs. But if I need to increase the speed I'll need to make the nozzle hotter, I dint relies I was right on the edge of the machines capabilities, it did reasonably well considering.
  9. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/1539-ultiprinter-original-problems/
  10. Having spent a day or tow trying to get my abs to stick to the bed, I have gone with details from guys who print lots of stuff, so 230c bed 110c print speed 100 .25 Layer height, and using very thin abs juice on kapton, holds great, I worked out very quickly To never use the fan when printing abs, as it distorts very quickly, my first small print had was a knob at 0.1 layer height speed 50 the infill was great measures about .5 thick But I tried to print a Handel for the ultimaker at the suggested 25% fill and 100mm/s speed But the infill is extremely thin they measure .26 thick and the whole layer failed at around layer 50 ish, any help please.
  11. Having spent a day or tow trying to get my abs to stick to the bed, I have gone with details from guys who print lots of stuff, so 230c bed 110c print speed 100 .25 Layer height, and using very thin abs juice on kapton, holds great, I worked out very quickly To never use the fan when printing abs, as it distorts very quickly, my first small print had was a knob at 0.1 layer height speed 50 the infill was great measures about .5 thick But I tried to print a Handel for the ultimaker at the suggested 25% fill and 100mm/s speed But the infill is extremely thin they measure .26 thick and the whole layer failed at around layer 50 ish, any help please.
  12. Ok I raised the bed to meet the nozzle. and im now printing like a beast. 8hr already. I would post some pictures but it won't let me upload pictures
  13. Ok thanks I didn't realise cura needed to set Z to 0. Pronterface requires you to leave a 0.1 gap between the bed an the nozzle when the Z is set to 0. I'll change it, and have a test run again. Thanks
  14. I'm running Cura 14.09 I can't see an option there for maintenance and build plate,there is a run bed levelling wizard, but it won't connect to the prusa i3' not sure if this function is only available for ultimaker's. But I will try your option: and create an STL line to go around the perimeter of the bed. I'll report back tomorrow
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