john-seaton

I didn't really see a way to orient it so that support was not needed. I figured the raft was needed since there is no flat spot to build up from. I can try it without though. Here is a screenshot. Thanks!

Anyone have any suggestions for printing really small and tiny objects? I had a guy ask me to print some really tiny objects at .02mm layer height and I didn't have much luck till I got up to .1mm. Here are some of my settings layer height: .1mm shell thickness: .8 retraction enabled bottom.top thickness .8 fill density: 20% print speed: 40mm/s raft and support everywhere Printed at 180c 5mm retraction distance & 25 on the speed. Here is a picture of the smallest of the 3 sizes lol yeah, that's a dime.

Here is my first attempt at the 10mm3/s test print Sorry for the lack of light as my LEDs are out at the moment and I haven't fixed them yet. Let's just say it has been a long road getting here. I only tried it since my printer has been performing stellar lately. Thanks to Simon at fbrc8 and Pat over at Solidprint3D.com. Still some kinks to work out but she is starting to perform well.

Yep this should be an easy fix. J15, when shorted sends uninhibited current to ground through the NPN transistor BC817. This transistor has a max collector current of 500ma. Chances are this was exceeded and burnt out the transistor. I believe it is the SOT323 package too. Can anyone confirm? Thanks John

Profile updated

My LEDs shorted out and blew the main board's PWM control circuitry. Simon sent me a replacement but I can't help wondering if it is repairable. If I had to guess its going to be a mosfet or transistor that has been blown and this should be fixable. Anyone here attempted this fix before? I have the tools to do SMD work so I'm not too concerned about that and I think I found the schematic on github, I just need to make sure it matches the version of the board I have now.

When I first took my hot end apart I noticed the loose steel collar and tightened it as well. I printed with it tightened for a little bit but I've since put it back. The PTFE spacer will sit flush on the nozzle regardless if the collar is tight or loose because of the sprint tension. There are a couple reasons why I set it back and one is because with the collar tight it raised the nozzle up to far for my liking and another reason is because this way there is room for the nozzle to move should there be irregularities in the glass or in your case a bent rod. I'm not sure but it would seem to me that if the nozzle was being forced into the glass for whatever reason it would be good to have some give there.

I think I recall someone mentioning having a tungsten carbide spacer made? Any thoughts on that before I have one made? My printer has the teflon one that came from the factory and the printer is about 2 moths old right now. I have almost 700 hours print time on it and from what I'm reading I'm way past due for a change. I don't want to have to buy one every 200 hours so paying to have a tungsten carbide one made would be worth it IMO if its slippery properties would hold true for PLA. Thanks John