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  1. I bought my printer used. Maybe that's the issue, but I've continued to have issues even after completely replacing the hotend with all official parts. I'm going to try the shims, soak the nozzle in acetone, and install a new PTFE bowden tube. If that doesn't work I'm just going to buy a Prusa i3 MK2.
  2. I will try this, but my coupler at least the top portion (I cant view bottom until I reassembly and clear out the PLA that has it stuck to the barrel) does not look deformed after disassembly. If the coupler is fine, what else could be causing my underextrusion and clogging?
  3. I cooled the UMO nozzle to 90 degrees before pulling. I can try it again at a lower temp once I set it up again. As for the groove, there is no groove for 2-3 mm on the way around once you get past the groove at the tip. However, after 2-3 mm there is a groove on both sides, but I'm not sure if that's an artifact from the stretching if the nozzle temp was 5C too high. As for the assembly, I never put much thought into it. I typically hand screwed the barrel and nozzle on until it got tight, then I would gently use a wrench to tighten it more. I never used shims in the print head, but I'
  4. I have not been using the full enclosure the past 2 months because I've been using PLA and have had to meticulously watch the start of the print to make sure the initial layers were fine because I was experiencing a lot of failed prints due to underextrusion. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by separation for the board? Are you asking if I raised the printer up to provide additional air to reach the electronics under the printer? If so yes, I have sound dampening feet attached to the printer that raises it by 1.5-2 inches. I already disassembled the hotend, but I stupidly did not
  5. An update: little over a year later after replacing both hotends with all official ultimaker parts. I did very little printing during the past year until the past couple months because both hotends clogged almost immediately with ABS after I installed them a year ago. I eventually was able to clear one of the nozzles out using a modified version of the Atomic Pull method and printed on and off for the past 2 months with PLA. I have had very mixed results: a lot of underextrusion and a lot of clogs (Atomic method had to be used after almost every print as the next print would not function).
  6. I replaced the entire hotend because I was desperate to get my printer working properly. I've had issues with my UMO since I bought it. Even now I'm having significant underextrusion and I can't figure out why. I tried loosening the screw on the extruder driver (bc I noticed filament grinding), it did not resolve the issue, so I tightened it and its still underextruding. I'm printing at 50m/s, so I'm not printing too fast. Maybe the coupler is deformed, but just seems like its too new to be deformed especially considering I have only been printing PLA with it. As for the bowden, I assu
  7. I've noticed that my nozzle temperature will occasionally jump around crazy during the start of a print. I am printing in PLA at 210C, but the nozzle will drop to 205 then shoot up to 212 and will flux. What would cause this, loose cables on the print head?
  8. Well, I've printed at LEAST 50 hours since I replaced the entire hotend including the coupler. I bought the printer used, so I do not know how many hours were on it before I bought it and I myself had put on prob 100 hours before replacing the hotend. As for the temperature, I don't think the control settings let me go above 250C nozzle temp. The bowden has been with me since I bought it and who knows how many hours the previous owner put on it. Debating on buying a new bowden, but the official tube is ridiculously overpriced. I've seen posts of others recommending different brand of bowden
  9. What length should the bowden tube be ideally? What are you using to cut the bowden tube?
  10. I've seen some recommend a filament duster. My 3d printing environment is quite dusty and I'm considering adding one. 1. Any reason to not use a filament duster? 2. What sponge/material to use as the dust wiper? 3. Should I oil the sponge or not oil it? If use oil, what type is ideal and do any of the oils interfere with any of the filament types (nylon, pla, abs, ninja flex, pva, ect)?
  11. I've noticed that the end of a spool has significantly more tension than the start of a spool. Furthermore, occasionally tangles/kinks form in the filament. 1. How to mitigate tension when nearing the end of a spool of filament? 2. How to prevent tangling/kinking in a spool of filament? 3. Is the UMO spool holder adequate or is an after-market or 3d printed spool holder better? If so, what recommendations do you have?
  12. Okay, so I think I have ruled some things out. I was able to watch a print and saw the layer shift occur early in the print. So I know its not from the power flickering or from the stepper motors overheating. This is someone else's video, but this is exactly what I saw: I assumed the belts needed tightened because to me they feel a little loose. I tried to tighten the screws, but they are already tightened to the max. I then moved the print head around while the printer was off and noticed it was quite stiff. Gave it some machine oil and now its moving much smoother. Not sure if th
  13. I'm trying to systematically work through all the issues that could be causing the underextrusion and the bowden tube is also on the list... However, I've definitely hit at least 50 hours of printing. When I disassemble the hotend, will the isolator coupler look burnt and deformed if its ready to be replaced? What is the difference between TFM coupler and PTFE? Which do you recommend I purchase? How can I visually tell if the bowden tube needs to be replaced?
  14. Is the hot end isolator coupler of the UMO a consumable? I've been having issues with underextrusion and noticed filament grinding, so I was wondering if the isolator coupler could have become deformed and is causing underextrusion and back pressure on the extruder motor. (though I only print PLA and only go above 210C to remove clogs using a modified atomic method).
  15. I found these gems: Custom printhead using Ultimaker 3 Printcore on a UM Go clone: Then Foehnsturm's Interchangable Magnetic tool Changer: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer?page=last
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