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printerfan

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Posts posted by printerfan

  1. I don't know much about crytocurrency, but the concept of Bitcoin intriguiged me when I first heard about it and I had wondered why the processing power that goes into the process of "mining" couldn't be harnessed for something more meaningful, such as data processing for research. However, I recently saw a campaign on Indigogo for a currency called Gridcoin that is able to both benefit research and generate currency.

    Is this legit? What do you guys think?

     

    http://wiki.gridcoin.us/Main_Page

  2. I know lazer scanners are not considered to provide the same fidelity of scan as a structured light scanner, but this one looks nice and now that its kickstarter is over its being sold at their respective online store.

    Any one have any experience with the Atlas 3d scanner?

     

  3. There are two things that are important for a scanner; Resolution (How many 'samples can you take per square cm of surface that you want to scan) and accuracy (How correct are the samples).

    For scanning small objects, you need both. The scanner has an accuracy of about 0.2 mm with the most simple scanning pattern. A single scan has a theoretical resolution of 1,3 million points. Depending on how close you put the item, your resolution per cm2 will change.

     

    Do you have any examples of scans you have done with the prototype? Would you be open to having beta-testers?

  4. Well, I have a prototype structured light scanner. Could well be that the source code of that is open sourced soon.

     

    Can you talk about the prototype structured light scanner you own nallath?

    How much did your projector cost? Software?

  5. I took a look at the block and could see filament in the brass tube... So looks like I will be completely disassembling the hotend. After doing a lot of reading about ABS clogs, I decided to soak the nozzle in acetone, and that looks like what I will be doing with the other parts as well. I will leave them in their for 2 days and see if the clot has dissolved.

    I will try to clean my bowden tube and install a filament sponge/duster, but I doubt that is the reason for all of the clogs. From what I have read, dirty filament (in this case I used brand new unopened ABS) and dirty bowden (my bowden probably could use a cleaning) can certainly make your clogging issues worse, but they only contribute to another primary issue causing the clogs.

    In terms of my retraction settings in Cura, minimum travel (mm) = 1.5.

    What do you think about my practice of manually extruding before a print?

    Maybe I could be turning the wheel too fast and it causing filament to over fill the nozzle?

    What about preheat settings, when I use the preheat ABS setting on the ulticontroller the nozzle heats up to 250C probably 10 minutes before the bed reachings 100C, maybe this is causing the filament to cook and harden?

  6. After a long series of issues with my UMO, I recently replaced the hotend with a new official hotend pack (new block, peek, ptfe, nozzle, brass barrel, and thermocouple) in hopes that my prints would improve and I would have a more reliable printer.  Well, after installing everything, the printer clogs first attempt with brand new unopened ABS with settings at 250C nozzle, 100C bed, 50 mm/s.  

    I attempted clearing the clog by inserting a 0.35 needle through the .4 nozzle opening, but it did not help much.  I removed the nozzle from the block and the nozzle was completely filled with ABS, now discolored from sitting in the hotend for too long.  

    I have two questions:

    1.  What am I doing wrong that is causing my printer to constantly clog?

        -I have a new official hotend, so that's unlikely the cause.

        -I manually extrude filament before attempting a print by turning the extruder wheel.  

         Could this be causing too much filament to flow into the nozzle and clog it?

    2. The nozzle is completely filled with ABS up to the neck (atomic pull NEVER works for me to clear the nozzle, the filament always snaps above the nozzle).  I have read about using a hand torch to burn out the ABS, anyone recommend a particular butane hand torch that gets hot enough to do this?

  7. So I'm a bit confused.  Are you saying that you have a bad hot end on heater0 and temp sensor0 and a brand new hot end on a second nozzle hooked up to heater1 and temp sensor1?

    I have very little experience with using 2 hot ends and the people who get it to work say it's very complicated.  Cura and Marlin are set up for dual printing but not printing *only* on the second hot end - that just doesn't work very well.

    Please clarify which hot end you are trying to heat, and where the nozzle heater and temp probe are connected on the PCB.  I strongly recommend you treat the UMO as a single hot end machine unless you are printing 2 different filaments in the same print.

     

  8. There is a service supposedly offering unlimited storage and access to a D-Wave quantum computer for outsourcing data processing. If this is legit, this would be a great service if it is affordable. They state the storage service only costs a one time fee of 5 pounds, but the cost of access to data processing was less clear.

    What do you all think about this service?

    http://www.aeros-os.org/styled-14/

  9. I preheated the nozzle using the "preheat ABS" setting via the ulticontroller before printing and also tried setting the temp to 250C under the "control" tab on ulticontroller and with both methods the hotend heated up to 250C, but the extruder motor still didn't turn on.

    I have UMO selected in cura.  I usually preheat before I start my prints via an SD card and havent had an issue with the motor until this week.

    How do I check and see if it commanded to 0C?

  10. I have an UMO with heated bed upgrade and dual extrusion.  Extruder 1 is out of commission (official thermocouple did not fit the official aluminum block, waiting on customer service from US distributor to assist).  So I'm currently trying to get extruder 2 up and going.  I recently replaced the entire hotend with all official parts (new peek, new block, new ptfe, new nozzle), but still using the old heating element and old thermocouple as they were fine on this particular extruder.

    My issue now is that the hotend is not heating when I send a print to it via SD card on the ulticontroller or direct cable connection via my computer.  The heated bed does respond and heats up via both of these methods.  Once the heated bed reaches its set temp, the print head engages in action as if its printing, but the extruder motor gear and thus extruder wheel do not turn.  My understanding is that when the hotend heat command is not read there is a safety mechanism built in to where the extruder motor does not turn because driving filament into a cold hotend could damage it.  So I decided to preheat the printer hotend and bed via the ulticontroller, then attempt a print.  Both the heated bed and the hotend heat up when preheat is selected from the ulticontroller; however, even though the desired temp is reach when I select print the printhead engages is motion as if printing, but the extruder wheel does not turn.  

    I thought maybe the nozzle was clogged, but filament comes out fairly easily when I manually drive the extruder wheel and the ABS comes out in a slow flow on its own when I have it set at 250C and above.  I then decided to upgrade the firmware (marlin gcode flavor, cura 15.04), this also did not change anything.  I pushed all the wires on top of the print head and they seem secure.  Tried SD card and direct cable to computer.  Not sure what else to try.  

    Any advice?

  11. As a side note, the old thermocouple that is still on my second extruder fits fine within the new offical aluminum blocks. It slides in and out with no resistance and seems like it risks sliding out during prints without the securing screw in place. So there is definitely a difference in diameter between the thermocouple I currently have on my second extruder and the new one I received.

  12. I tried pulling it out from the end I inserted it with my fingers and it caused the metal cover to pull off a little and now its frayed. I hope pulling on it didn't affect functionality, I used my hands because I figured pliers were too much of a risk to damaging it. I was able to get my allan wrench and push it out from the other end. So its out. Because my printer is used I have multiple aluminum blocks that were sent to me from the previous owner, not sure if they are aftermarket or official, but no matter as I bought 2 official aluminum blocks given I have dual extrusion and the thermocouple did not fit in any of the blocks. In the new official blocks I purchased the thermocouple at least made it about 1/3 of the way before it starts giving resistance, it will get lodged if I push it 40-50% in. The thermocouple is not able to be inserted at all in the other aluminum blocks that the previous owner included.

    I have contacted the official ultimaker distributor from who I bought the parts and am awaiting a reply. Hopefully they can help me figure out what is going on or let me exchange this thermocouple for one that fits.

  13. I decided to order the official ultimaker hotends because the Chimera was not offered in 3mm. Unfortunately, although I spent the extra money and ordered the official ultimaker hotend pack and official thermocouple, the official thermocouple does not fit the official aluminum block...

    I don't know if this is simply a 1/1000 chance of getting an aluminum block or thermocouple that slipped through the cracks of quality control, but my thermocouple will not insert fulling into the slot and it is now firmly lodged half-way in the block...

    I am rather disappointed to say the least because I ordered official parts, despite their high cost, to avoid issues such as this and yet I am again stuck without a fully functional printer. Will update as to how this gets handled.

  14. Its been a broad series of issies.  Difficulty bed leveling (official heated bed upgrade installed), clogging, poor print quality (though have got a few prints with good quality), bowden tube detaching from extruder after multi-hour print, prints prematurely stopping, ect.

    As far as other parts being replaced, I know some part of the hotend were replaced by the previous owner since I found multiple clogged and broken brass hotend barrels and nozzles in the "spare parts" bag he included. Whether he used official ultimaker or cheap chinese to replace the parts he broke is not known to me.

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