printerfan
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Posts posted by printerfan
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Thanks for the link Labern. I read through the list and it seems like most of the parts I need are okay to buy chinese (aluminum block, brass/copper hotend barrel and nozzle. One thing that I didn't see addressed was the PEEK.
Is chinese PEEK okay to use?
Anyone have experience ordering from aliexpress? Any other cheap alternative sites recommended?
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I have an UMO with dual extrusion. I need to replace my peek, brass pipe with flange, and my aluminum block. The prices on ebay are very cheap, but imported from china, has anyone ordered any of these spare parts from ebay and can attest to the quality?
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I'm a windows 7 user, have the windows 7 bugs been worked out yet?
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Can't seem to find the chatroom given the new site layout, how can I get to the chatroom?
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Print Without Fan Shroud
Print With Fan Shroud
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190C
30 mm/s
Printed multiple objects
All other features the same
Used a cube as a sacrifice print via the "print all at once" feature to allow the bot more time to cool down between layers.
The prints are excessively sticking to the bed, so I accidently broke off the "legs" of the bot when attempting to remove it from the print bed. I beleive the excessive adhesion is due to the bed being too close to the print nozzle, I will lower it for the next print.
Any recommendations to improve the print?
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Ok, so I realized I had the fan installed backwards, so air was flowing the wrong way. lol
This is the new print after I flipped the fan.
Same print settings as above, except I increased print speed to 45 mm/s.
Any recommendations to improve my print quality?
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I have tried leveling my bed repeatedly and even installed a fan with an ABS shroud (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:175621)
Ultimaker brand PLA
Nozzle temp: 195 C
Bed temp: 60 C
Printer Speed: 30 mm/s
What is the cause of this issue?
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I've been using the Dual Annular Head shroud (ABS) for printing PLA. I have found that it still has a tendency even when printed in ABS to slightly warp and make contact with the print. I'm going to have to try to find a way to keep the shroud elevated on the non-attached side or print a different shroud.
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I think I discovered the cause of the issue. I forgot I had added and activated plug-ins shortly before experiencing the heating error. After removing the plug-ins, I was able to print for 30 mins with no issues and the print quality was pretty good. I stopped the print because I had to go somewhere and did not want to leave the printer unattended.
I will tinker with the plug-ins and post which one it ends up being the cause.
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My heater block keeps shutting off once reaching the desired print temp or will shut off following an error after printing for a while "heating failed" displayed on my ulticontroller (screen appears faded when error appears).
Cura seemed to reset a week ago, deleting my saved printer configurations. Maybe this is playing a role?
What should I do to fix this issue? Is it hardware or firmware problem?
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Thanks for the advice Frederik. Using an M6 nuts is a good idea for not stripping the brass thread, I will try that.
I do not own a bench clamp. How did you secure the PEEK when you screwed in the brass thread?
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Okay, looks like I have the plug-in installed now. Thank you for your help, I will let you know how it works when I get a chance to test it.
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Okay, so I got my fan installed and printed the dual head shroud in ABS and got a really good print from it. Unfortunately, the nozzle and/or Peek Insulator clogged again, but I am too busy with school to mess with it for the next 2 weeks. I am considering installing a second fan onto the ultimaker, but am unsure how. I thought someone posted a link in another thread showing how, but I cant remember or find it when I searched.
How are others installing two fans onto the Ultimaker if there is only one 2 pin fan slot?
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I tried installing the plug-in, but when I opened the 14.09 folder, there was no additional folder for plug-ins. There where only 3 files in the 14.09 folder "current_profile", "mru_filelist", and "preferences". I saved the plug-in file in the 14.09 file as a .txt.
Did I install the plug-in correctly?
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One of my friends has a small butane torch, so I will try to use that to clear my nozzle and the brass part of the Peek Insulator out. Will update when I get a chance to try it.
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Thanks for the reply Izzy, I will check that thread out that you mentioned. I've been using both the Ultimaker Brand PLA and Protoparadigm PLA, both are generally regarded as at least decent. I've found that around 230 seems to work best for them on my printer, though some prints I get stringing at that temp (indicating its too hot), but if I go much cooler I get underextrusion. My room temperature is 54-56 F, so that may also be playing a role.
I may try to add a filament sponge, dust may be contributing to the issue as may be my some component of my extruder driver (my primary extruder doesn't seem to have the extruder drive upgrade installed). I'm am bombarded with school work at the moment and may not be able to disassemble things for another 2 weeks, but I will definitely be compiling info and making a plan of action in the mean time.
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So I finally got my printer up and running again after disassembling hotend and cleaning out everything. I was able to successfully print an ABS fan shroud. With the shroud installed a switched back to PLA and made sure to keep the head at 230C durning the switch and then manually extruded a lot of PLA from the nozzle to clear out any remaining ABS. I got a really good 1 hour print after some minor bed leveling adjustments, but then my nozzle clogged again.
My PEEK and nozzle keep getting regularly clogged.
This is occurring frequently, is this a design flaw in the UIltimaker hotend or is this user error?
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Thank you for sharing. However, I'm not a programmer, so I have no clue what to do with the information you linked. I assumed the plug-in was downloadable GUI.
Do I copy and paste a section of the code you listed on Github into Cura?
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My peek insulator is clogged. When attempting to remove it from the printer, the internal threaded metal portion began to attach from the Teflon portion (pic below).
How to do reinsert the metal porton back into the teflon portion without damaging the PEEK Insulator?
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Excellent, thank you so much!
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Dim3nsioneer
It would be awesome to have a plug in with a GUI that easily allowed us dual extruder people to use their second nozzle as the primary nozzle. I second drayson's request, would you be willing to share the plug-in?
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Look at the gcode in each of those, T1 and T0 are only listed in the gcode for start2.gcode and end2.gcode.
This is the gcode in start2code
;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
T0 ;Switch to the first extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
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I know with code you have to be very specific in regards to line placement and spacing.
Do you have a screen shot of how its supposed to look when I type it?
Also, in my gcode tab, there are several segments to select, which one do I choose?
start.gcode
end.gcode
preSwitchExtruder.gcode
postSwitchExtruder.gcode
start2.gcode
end2.gcode
Best UMO hotend + nozzle?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I have an UMO with dual extrusion and have decided to completely replace both of my hotends in their entirety (Peek, aluminum block, nozzle, ect.). Long story short, I bought my UMO used and its had issues since day 1, which I think may have been related to the previous owner using cheap aftermarket parts for the hotend and I just want to have a fresh start and see if I can improve my prints.
Given I have UMO with dual extrusion, what is the best hotend and nozzle setup for me to install?
Should I buy 2 new hotend packs from ultimaker or should I buy an "upgraded" hotend from a 3rd party?