tottenham12712
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Posts posted by tottenham12712
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Well that sucks... I went with the UM2 over the taz with the understanding that I could get the upgraded kits. If there is a beta kit I would purchase it immediately.
That being said, why was luzbot able to pull it off with fairly good results (as far as my searches have turned up) but not UM? Nozzle spacing? Heat issues?
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and @ tottenham12712 (damn what a user name
) , I understand the color shift over time... I'm talking about right out of the box!The newer UM2 (at least the newer one I have) has a completely differnt LED strip. The old LED strip had the diodes exposed, the new strips have the LED's encase in a resin shield.
Totally different issue if its right out of the box. Here is my guess, they were having stocking issues for awhile. Its possible they ran out of a particular brand or "white" color LED and had to just another to keep them shipping. That would be my guess.
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?? Leveling only affects the bottom layer and *sometimes* the second layer but that's it. Leveling the bed differently (turning the 3 screws in any combination of directions, amount) will not affect the 10th layer at all. Even if you are crooked by 1mm (printing in air on one side and on the glass on the other) within 5 or so layers things have recovered and leveling no longer maters for the remaining layers.
I think you're pushing it to the side a bit too much. Yes after many layers the percentage of error starts to disappear, but when building an overhang precision is even more important. If your bed level is off at layer 1 it will be slightly off all the way up and *can* effect the print.
If you dont believe me just try it yourself
only takes a few min and a bit of plastic with that test piece, set the bed too close and run fairly normal settings .15, 50mm/s, and then test again with the bed further away. Id bet you'll see different results. At least I do.The comment that told me that my nozzle is too close to the bed helped a LOT.
I leveled the bed again and set it away from nozzle with a little friction on the paper.
I'm getting decent prints now, still cant print at 60 deg perfect, but I think its not possible to do that anyway.
I will try it again with barely any friction to the paper when leveling to see if there is bigger difference.
gr5 maybe you need to rethink your opinion about bed level? Nozzle is allways closer, every layer, and is effecting the heat of the allready printed layers below.
When the head is making a turn in a corner, it drag and lift the material in that layer. You can see this effect it in my previous posts in the photos.
If you let this happening it keeps building even more than 6mm above the printed layer.
I stated that I was printing with normal quality settings gr5. (quickprint) Isn't those the parameters that must work with Ultimaker printers?
Im glad it helped, 60 degrees is a pretty hard overhang, you can definitely keep tweaking your settings but you will need to go into advanced mode to get it. The default settings are only good for so much. If you do activate the advanced settings view you will see what the settings currently are. My guess is .1mm height, and 50mm/s.
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LED have more than 10000 hrs work time ...
Work time is not what we are talking about. They might "Work" but they color shift over time and that time is much shorter than the life span of the LED. Its a very well known issue with LEDs.
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Its not a problem with the Wrench.. Its a problem with my printer and the way that CURA lays down the first layer..
You need to go back to the start to understand if you are interested.. Basically, after retraction, my Printrbot lays down a tiny bit of air when doing new perimeters leaving them open.. And they get snagged and ripped off.
I struggle with the first layer when there are very small parts... So in the case of the wrench.. That tiny little rectangle on the first layer, gets ripped up..
You guys have some serious attitude issues in this thread...Because its impossible for files to get corrupted or people to screw with things on the internet, right?
Trying using a brim, it will close it the gap on the rectangle. I had the same issue initially.
Craftware fully implemented vector slicer with its latest release. Try it. Far better then CURA and their developers fix things withing a week or two, even implement features that users request
Craftware's UI is a total disaster. It looks like someones high school project.
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Hi Tottenham (I guess you chose that name after Dafoe joined Toronto
) I certainly do not want to dissuade you from any testing, that is always a good thing! But I was wondering why you print the test pieces when you change the filament to retune the printer. Changing filament does not change the physical characteristics of the printer so I am wondering why it needs a retune. EG if your bed level was right before changing the filament it will be the same after changing the filament.To be clear I am not saying you are doing anything wrong, I am just curious
I actually visited England when I was a kid and I got to see a tottenham game, so thats where that came from
Been playing football since I can remember.I typically run the overhang test after changing filament types. Nylon -> XT or similar, and just run the bridge test 25% through when changing colors and types. Sometimes I will also do it between different colors, for instance XT Blue and Red like to be leveled slightly different on the two rolls that I have and even the temps are sometimes a little different. For most printing its not a huge deal, I print a lot of small parts that need high details and small tolerances so getting each type of filament dialed in helps me out.
Now however im going to contradict everything I just said above
I just recently starting using my own test piece though which is just a large .4mm walled circle that makes 10 layers, as it goes around I tweak my bed on the fly to get the best results for that filament. Most settings do translate over between filaments but it seems the bed leveling needs to be tweaked so this simple test uses less plastic and IMO is the best way to level the bed.
I think for a noob printing those test pieces is a good idea since it really shows what you need to work on, once you know what you're doing though its much easier to make small changes without those tests or even a simple test piece like the one i described above.
here are some pictures from the overhang test .stl that you asked.
This was printed with normal settings from cura 14.12.1
210c - 60c - 100% speed
I didnt let the print finish for obvious reasons.
what should I change so I could fix this?
Are you just using the cura default normal profile?
What is your flow rate at? It almost looks like its over extruding on the back side.
EDIT: After looking at the pictures again it looks like your nozzle is really close to the print, double check your bed leveling. A piece of paper should have a very small amount of friction between the nozzle and the glass.
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OctoPrint won't have stability issues. The issues are with USB on the "computer" side, and the Pi does not have this issue.
Ah ok, I though it was an issue with the interface within the UM itself. Thank you!
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Went back to UltiGcode flavour for now though. Can't get the starting code running correctly. Hahahahahaha! Will try again when I got the free time with testing out more RepRep.
I made a post about this here: http://zeleskitech.com/2015/01/03/using-octoprint-ultimaker2-gcode/
Here is the start code needed:
;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 ;Home all
G1 F12000 X5 Y10 ;move hotend to front left
M190 S70 ;add your own bed temperature line
M109 S245 ;add your own temperature line
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E5 ;extrude 5mm of feed stock FAST
G1 F50 E15 ;extrude 15mm of feed stock SLOW
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
The blog post explains how to set temps.
You're welcome. We know that the prefer way of doing things won't suit everyone, so there are options :smile:
(Also, if you change to RepRap flavor gcode, you can USB print. But stability of that is not guaranteed)
So far printing from OctoPrint on 14.12.1 has been very stable even on large long prints. Very happy with it
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Grab the over hang test from make: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472/#files
Run the test and post up the results, we should be able to tell you what to tune after seeing those results
After I change filaments I always run the overhang and bridge test to re tune the printer.
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This is really annoying me now.
I was trying to print the NASA Spanner:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608397/#files
And the very first layer has a tiny part of the ratchet mechanism.. Which simply won't stick.. Gets rolled up as a blob and then gets merged into the rest of the print.
I have tried everything I can "mechanically" to get this to stick, and its simply impossible.
Now I need to start looking at playing with CURA (perhaps using the raft as suggested above) to see if any of the settings will help.....
Jon
First off grab the file straight from nasa, never know if someone messed with it: http://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/detail/wrench-mis
I was able to print this 3 times with no issues in XT and Nylon (Bridge). What settings are you using, filament, and are you using glue or anything to keep the print down?
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I just found out about this thread, its not that pretty looking but its very small and flies great.
Motors: Turnigy Multistar 1704-1900Kv
ESCs: Turnigy Plush 12a (stock firmware, will be flashing to blheli)
FC: Acro Naze32
Servo: Turnigy XGD-11MB
Battery: 1000mah 25c
vTX: Immersion RC FPV gear
RX: frsky d4rii
Full album:
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Also, with the rotation tool, hold shift to rotate per degree instead of per 15 degree steps
No freaking way..... Had no idea you could do that, thank you
Okay, and what about the watch it self? If you go on thingiverse and go to thingiview and rotate down to the bottom, the watch has a sort of circular charger at the bottom and when i tried to print it, the printrbot would print the charger perfectly but then it wouldnt print the watch because it dosent have a support to go on. Any ideas?
You need support to print that. The file is not separated like its show in the images. I would flip the model upside down and try to bridge the whole top. There is a "screen" that covers it so its irrelevant how it looks inside.
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I would like to try this test but I'm not sure how to load the file as when I load profile from gcode using the file in the original post, it loads the settings but there is no model in Cura to print.
Its already compiled into gcode, just drop that file on your SD card and pop it in the printer.
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In cura, click the rotate option at the bottom left of the viewer. Than click the top icon "Lay Flat", I actually had to click it twice to get it to lay 100% flat but it did work. Hope that helps!
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Ok sounds good! Wont be able to take it apart until this weekend.
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Hi all,
Been printing a bunch of things over the past few weeks and everything has been good apart from a clog here or there. Today I hit massive under extrustion and knew something was up (Red XT at 245C, .1mm at 60mm/s). Had a bunch of skipping and the filament got torn up (Still running the stock extruder FYI).
I did two atmoic pulls, first one is the closest, second is the furthest. I always do my pulls with PLA because it seems to work better:
Based on those mushroom looking shapes do we think my spacer needs to be replaced? I pretty much only print at 240-245C.
Im doing a test print right now and so far so good after the pulls, I dont really feel any friction in the hot end when pressing in filament or removing it, but I know thats not any good measurement.
Any advice would be very helpful!
Thanks,
Dylan!
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My last word to CURA developers.
Dont be like Microsoft, listen to users, some of them have pretty good suggestions that you should implement.
Have a good day.
Attacking UM/Daid is not going to get you anywhere. And that sentence right there is where I lost all respect for your arguement/you. Dont be disrespectful, you get a lot more with sugar than you do salt. How many developers even talk with customers? Yeah not too many, im glad he is here, contsantly getting into discussions about the product because thats the only way its going to get better than it already is.
Daid,
Heres what I notice. I make many parts with small holes for screws or zipties. Initially I wanted my shell thickness to be .8mm(stronger hole), what Cura does is the first shell and than the second shell later on in the layer. The nozzle will eventaully cross over the shell or rub into it and if there are any areas that are a bit too high it will grab it and pop it off the bed.
Now if I only use a .4mm shell its compeltely fine. Changing any other settings has zero effect unless I go insanly slow which is just not practical.
I typically print at 20mm/s on my first layer now, and anywhere from 50-70 mm/s afterwards depending on layer height with colorfabb XT.
If you would like a couple of test files to run yourself please let me know and I can come up with something.
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This is entirely normal for LEDs that have been on for long periods of time, and is the number 1 reason airports dont use them for runway lights.
What you are most likely seeing is LED Color Shift. The only thing that is a bit odd is your printer is pretty new. How many hours does it have on it?
This should help explain if you would like to read a bit more into it: http://www.ies.org/lda/HotTopics/LED/20.cfm
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I pretty much use XT exclusively as I need the extra strength it has and Ive only had 2 jam/clogs due to getting a knot on the reel.
I print XT in multiple colors all around the same settings. 243-258 is about the sweet spot, I can print everything at 245 pretty reliably. I can print 70mm/s at those temps at .15 with zero issues, unfortunetly I have not tried pushing it any harder but im assuming it could go faster.
To clear a clog with XT is a pretty simple task (at least for me it was), just raise the temp up to 260, wait about 5 min once its there try to extrude. It should free up at this point, if not remove the filament and use the atomic method heating up to 260 and then cooling to 90, wait 2-3 min and pull it out fairly hard.
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Solution is simple but CURA developers dont want to implement it.
Problem with these kinds of prints (that i print allot) is that there are multiple perimeters.
Cura does not like to retract before goint from one perimeter to another, so when it does it ruins it.
I keep on bringing this issue but all i get is "retract while combing" or tweak retraction distance settings.
Problem is that if i do any of the two, problem gets solved but another problem emerges, it starts to retract too much to a point when filament is grinded and print is ruined.
It is impossible to tweak the settings so it would retract before perimeter change, because all those settings are distance based and not following the rule as to "where it needs to retract" but rather "how far before retract"
Who is to say "how far" from one perimeter to another ? No one knows so those settings are useless.
I dont think that cura will ever evolve to a point where it will start and finish each individual perimeter and retract before each one.
So in that regard i gave up on CURA.
There is free software that does work that way alowing complex objects like these to be printed without a hastle. Its called Craftware. Craftware prints each perimeter and retracts before switching to the next. It also has an option to prime, so you can give little extra prime after retraction to make it start even better.
Craftware does have a problem that i absolutely hate, but its not going to ruin your life, so give it a try.
This has been driving me nuts for weeks. I print small parts for multirotors and other RC gear, many of them have small holes for zip ties or small bolts 1-3mm in diameter. I get alot of first layer issues because of this and never really understood why until I read your posts here, so thank you
Ill give craftware a shot as well. -
Let me think about that for a while. No.
Apologies if I wasnt clear, that was 100% sarcasm
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I don't know what your tolerances are on the outside but I think it's sounding like it will print fine with .4 nozzle if you tell cura it is .19 nozzle. You just might need to play with "flow" setting.
As far as getting a smaller nozzle - no one sells these for UM2 yet. So it's tricky. You have to buy one from Ultimaker and they are expensive - something like $40 for the nozzle/heat chamber (it's an integrated part). Then you have to have a metal worker put some solder in the tip (tell him it needs to operate at 280C) and redrill it out to .25mm which is the hardest part of all because .25mm drill bits are very delicate. But with the right equipment (lathe or drill press) it's not too hard.
Personally I have the opposite - I have the normal .4mm nozzle plus a .7mm nozzle.
One more thought - can you design the part with 1mm walls instead of .4mm? If you can do that then you can print this just fine with .4mm nozzle.
Thats a bummer on the nozzle, If a dual extruder gets released it would be pretty cool to be able to use two different size nozzles depending on what needs to be done.
Unfortunately i cant, this is a cover for a barometer on board an arduino, there are transistors that surround the area.
The good news is I got the print to come out perfect. I use color fab xt, so I had to drop the temp from 245 to 240, and actually reduce flow to 90%. It under extruded ever so slightly but I dont need strength so its perfect. I ended up pulling the holes out of the model and just used a hot needle to poke them in after the print was done.
Thank you very much for your help
Because the whole design of the CuraEngine is based on enclosed 2D shapes which might need to be filled or not, and outline printed around them. Single walls simply don't fit in that structure&method.
Just redesign it!!
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I just downloaded your STL. Since the walls are .4 and since Cura insists on 2 passes it slices fine if you tell it you have a nozzle of .2mm wide and shell of .19.
I recommend overextruding (set flow to 150%) on this one to get strong walls. They won't be much wider than .4mm. I'm not sure how good the tolerance will be on the walls but better than you might think.
Alternatively consider truly getting a smaller nozzle. I recommend .25mm.
Or write the gcode yourself by hand?
Or give the STL a "top" and then slice it with "spiralize" such that it prints the outer edge .4mm thick with nozzle and shell set to .4mm. I'm not sure what it will do to the two holes though (cups and vases don't normally have holes in the bottom).
Well I guess you learn something new every day
I did not know that cura wants to do two passes.As far as strengh this is just a cover for a barometer for a multirotor (they are super sensitve to light and wind) the part really doesnt need any strength just decent tolerences so I can glue it over the chip.
I have considered a smaller nozzle as most of the things I print are smaller parts with holes and it appears the .4 nozzle is a bit big for that. Any place you would recommend getting one from, I see makergear sells them.
I write enough code at work
I actually didnt even think of that... not sure why, ill give that a shot as well.I assumed the holes would print pretty crappy but my hope was that there would be some type of hole there. I might just make it completely solid and poke it with a large heated pin.
Thank you for your help!
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Hi all,
Ive been designing and printing very successfully up until this point. I have a very small part (5.6mm x 5.6mm x 2.2mm) that Im trying to print. Attached is the STL and gcode files. When I run this stl through cura it does not print the walls (.4mm). Ive tried tweeking the shell thickness, layersize, etc with the same results. Even the layer view in cura shows an incorrect object.
Would anyone be able to help me out? I realize this print is pretty small and may not actually be possible on the ultimaker, but at a very slow speed the bottom half actually comes out pretty decent.
Thanks,
Dylan
) , I understand the color shift over time... I'm talking about right out of the box!
Just bought an Ultimaker 2 - struggling for any good resolution in Cura
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
This photo makes me think its a bed levling issue. The left side looks decent, and the right side looks terrible. I would re-level the bed with a piece of paper to the point where you feel just a small amount of friction when sliding it under the nozzle.
Stole this from google: