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  1. This photo makes me think its a bed levling issue. The left side looks decent, and the right side looks terrible. I would re-level the bed with a piece of paper to the point where you feel just a small amount of friction when sliding it under the nozzle. Stole this from google:
  2. Well that sucks... I went with the UM2 over the taz with the understanding that I could get the upgraded kits. If there is a beta kit I would purchase it immediately. That being said, why was luzbot able to pull it off with fairly good results (as far as my searches have turned up) but not UM? Nozzle spacing? Heat issues?
  3. Totally different issue if its right out of the box. Here is my guess, they were having stocking issues for awhile. Its possible they ran out of a particular brand or "white" color LED and had to just another to keep them shipping. That would be my guess.
  4. I think you're pushing it to the side a bit too much. Yes after many layers the percentage of error starts to disappear, but when building an overhang precision is even more important. If your bed level is off at layer 1 it will be slightly off all the way up and *can* effect the print. If you dont believe me just try it yourself only takes a few min and a bit of plastic with that test piece, set the bed too close and run fairly normal settings .15, 50mm/s, and then test again with the bed further away. Id bet you'll see different results. At least I do. Im glad it helped, 60 degrees is a pretty hard overhang, you can definitely keep tweaking your settings but you will need to go into advanced mode to get it. The default settings are only good for so much. If you do activate the advanced settings view you will see what the settings currently are. My guess is .1mm height, and 50mm/s.
  5. Work time is not what we are talking about. They might "Work" but they color shift over time and that time is much shorter than the life span of the LED. Its a very well known issue with LEDs.
  6. You guys have some serious attitude issues in this thread...Because its impossible for files to get corrupted or people to screw with things on the internet, right? Trying using a brim, it will close it the gap on the rectangle. I had the same issue initially. Craftware's UI is a total disaster. It looks like someones high school project.
  7. I actually visited England when I was a kid and I got to see a tottenham game, so thats where that came from Been playing football since I can remember. I typically run the overhang test after changing filament types. Nylon -> XT or similar, and just run the bridge test 25% through when changing colors and types. Sometimes I will also do it between different colors, for instance XT Blue and Red like to be leveled slightly different on the two rolls that I have and even the temps are sometimes a little different. For most printing its not a huge deal, I print a lot of small parts that need high details and small tolerances so getting each type of filament dialed in helps me out. Now however im going to contradict everything I just said above I just recently starting using my own test piece though which is just a large .4mm walled circle that makes 10 layers, as it goes around I tweak my bed on the fly to get the best results for that filament. Most settings do translate over between filaments but it seems the bed leveling needs to be tweaked so this simple test uses less plastic and IMO is the best way to level the bed. I think for a noob printing those test pieces is a good idea since it really shows what you need to work on, once you know what you're doing though its much easier to make small changes without those tests or even a simple test piece like the one i described above. Are you just using the cura default normal profile? What is your flow rate at? It almost looks like its over extruding on the back side. EDIT: After looking at the pictures again it looks like your nozzle is really close to the print, double check your bed leveling. A piece of paper should have a very small amount of friction between the nozzle and the glass.
  8. Ah ok, I though it was an issue with the interface within the UM itself. Thank you!
  9. I made a post about this here: http://zeleskitech.com/2015/01/03/using-octoprint-ultimaker2-gcode/ Here is the start code needed: ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 ;Home all G1 F12000 X5 Y10 ;move hotend to front left M190 S70 ;add your own bed temperature line M109 S245 ;add your own temperature line G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E5 ;extrude 5mm of feed stock FAST G1 F50 E15 ;extrude 15mm of feed stock SLOW G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... The blog post explains how to set temps. So far printing from OctoPrint on 14.12.1 has been very stable even on large long prints. Very happy with it
  10. Grab the over hang test from make: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472/#files Run the test and post up the results, we should be able to tell you what to tune after seeing those results After I change filaments I always run the overhang and bridge test to re tune the printer.
  11. First off grab the file straight from nasa, never know if someone messed with it: http://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/detail/wrench-mis I was able to print this 3 times with no issues in XT and Nylon (Bridge). What settings are you using, filament, and are you using glue or anything to keep the print down?
  12. I just found out about this thread, its not that pretty looking but its very small and flies great. Motors: Turnigy Multistar 1704-1900Kv ESCs: Turnigy Plush 12a (stock firmware, will be flashing to blheli) FC: Acro Naze32 Servo: Turnigy XGD-11MB Battery: 1000mah 25c vTX: Immersion RC FPV gear RX: frsky d4rii Full album: https://imgur.com/a/YN4AL
  13. No freaking way..... Had no idea you could do that, thank you You need support to print that. The file is not separated like its show in the images. I would flip the model upside down and try to bridge the whole top. There is a "screen" that covers it so its irrelevant how it looks inside.
  14. Its already compiled into gcode, just drop that file on your SD card and pop it in the printer.
  15. In cura, click the rotate option at the bottom left of the viewer. Than click the top icon "Lay Flat", I actually had to click it twice to get it to lay 100% flat but it did work. Hope that helps!
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