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kirash4

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  1. Ok. tried .10 and that too didn't work. And some things behaved slower, like clicking on some menu items and such would take a second or 5-10 to actually register. I wish the software wouldn't tell me that there's a new version available when the reality is that it's still in beta.
  2. I've been running Cura 15.04 and having no issues. I did previously install 15.06.01 but didn't actually try it. Today I launched it only to have it tell me there's an update, so I downloaded 15.06.03 and installed that instead. When I open it and load a model, I can not select the model. I can't rotate it, I can't move it, I can't do anything with it. Nothing appears to work. Back in 15.04 and it works as expected. So what changed, other than a fancy, completely unnecessary interface redesign, that's causing 15.06.x to not work? By the way, I also tried 15.06.01 and that too does not work, same problem, can't select the model, can't rotate, move, nothing. Can't right-click the model either. Platform is Windows 7 64-bit.
  3. Yeah, I kinda figured it has a 50/50 chance of working depending on the piece. What I'm making though is fairly symetrical which should be okay. We'll see when I actually get to print one.
  4. Huh. Never thought it would actually do that but I'm watching the printer do it in amazement. Awesome. Makes me wonder if it would also work on small odd-shapes objects that are flat (uniform height, just not ring shaped, or solid) ... Guess there's only one way to find out. Thanks all!
  5. Is there a way to print a circular object, like a ring, without the printer doing the diagonal infil but rather have it fill it in by going in circles instead? Basically I'm trying to print a large ring shape (200mm diameter) where the thickness of the ring is 5mm (and height is 10mm). I need the infill at 100% for strength, but doing that causes it to fill it in with diagonal lines. And because I'm going to be using translucent material, having the criss-cross layers just doesn't look good. I kinda want a spiral fill, from the inner circle to the outer and moving up in layers, just going round and round. I don't think that's possible, at least not with the 'Spiral' function, but you get the idea (I hope). Actually, it's very much like when it's laying down a brim, where it spirals it inward. Suggestions?
  6. That's the Z-axis motor. Rather than a quick burst to move the bed down, it now gradually moves it in tandem with the movement of the xy-head. As for the loud 3rd fan, you can replace it for a (much) quieter one. I did that with mine and I don't hear the printer anymore when it's idling. When it's printing all I hear is the movements, no fans.
  7. Sometimes I end up manually moving objects around in Cura for optimal placement of multiples. For example, printing a bunch of triangles would make more sense if some are rotated 180 degrees to the next. You can put them closer together and fit more on the bed. Or if I need just a little extra time between two objects, I will move them to opposite, diagonal corners. The object I'm printing right now is a good example. Cura can only place 15 copies on the bed, however if I do it manually, I can fit 21 and still have room left for more. However, moving multiple objects is a tedious process as you can only select one at a time. Is there a way to select multiple objects and move them together as a group?
  8. Yep, setting it to no brim and letting it build a skirt instead wors perfectly. It only does the outside and ignores the inner gaps.
  9. A skirt isn't enough to hold the part down, which is why I'm using a brim. Guess I'll do it in the modeling software. Correction: a skirt might work. I had forgotten that you can change the amount of lines that the skirt lays down. So if I set that to 0.05 for distance and tell it to lay down 10-15 lines, that ought to be enough. I'm off to try that right now.
  10. I'm printing some gears that have teeth on the inside. I need the outside brim to hold the piece down while printing and I'm using 15 lines), but I don't want/need the inside brim. It's a pain to clean it up between the teeth of the gear. Is there some way of controlling this? Using the latest Cura version.
  11. You misread what I'm getting at. The *walls* of the cup are fine, and it's doing what it's supposed to. It's the BOTTOM thickness that I want changed, not the wall. That has, as far as I know, nothing to do with the walls getting spiralized.
  12. So I just installed Cura 15.01 and I'm seeing an odd visual when I launch it. With the 14.12.1 version it displays the build area right in the center. But with 15.0a, it's offset to the left a bit. Is there something that needs adjusting or re-configured, if so, what? 14.12.1 And 15.01:
  13. Well, this is kinda of annoying. I purchased my UM2 from a good friend who only had it a few months and is now moving out of the country. Both of us has the same desire: dual extrusion. Knowing that it was promised, and now being told it's not going to happen, it's never going to happen for the UM2. Had I known this back in December, I would not have purchased the printer, I would've looked at something else. So that's something that I will now have to give up on and start looking for another solution. The UM2 isn't useless as I'm still using it and can continue to use it, but for the purpose that it was purchased for, it's no longer viable. And that money spent could've gone to a different printer. Then there's the issue of those spare parts. I just placed an order for new insulators and a nozzle and heating block. The printer is still using the original one and I've been having clogging issues, particularly with PLA, although I'm slowly refining the process and just dealing with the clogs, and the insulator is damaged as well. I don't know if this is something I should just say, hey, send me a replacement nozzle because something's wrong with this (we have never been able to print PLA, not since day one) or just swallow up the cost of the parts. It's great that spare parts are now more easily available, but at what point does a replacement qualify as a 'free replacement'? Having never been able to successfully use PLA, we had given up and printed with only ABS. Now, I'm actually spending the time, baby sitting it constantly, as I try to figure out why it won't work with PLA. And while I am able to get some prints to work, it's all been very small and thin stuff. I can't print anything that's more than a few mm tall because it will fail, it will clog, something. I have now disassembled the entire head and nozzle assembly for cleaning so many times I can probably do it in my sleep. It shouldn't be that way. Which is why I have replacements parts on order. But I now question whether I shuold've paid for some of those or whether they should've been free replacement parts. Considering it's been almost 10 days since the order went in (sitting on day 9 here) and I haven't heard anything other than 'thank you for your order, we took your money' ... I don't know what to expect, other than 'yay, I have a UM2 ... that won't ever see a dual extrusion upgrade, even though we were sold on a promise of it coming avaiable.' Or I could also say, 'yay I have a UM2 ... that won't print PLA to save it's own life.'
  14. Last night I did my first ever "cup" print and using the spiral option in Cura. The design file itself is a solid cylinder. In Cura I did the following: Layer height: 0.1 mm Shell thickness: 1 mm Bottom/Top thickness: 3 mm (I want a solid, heavier bottom) Fill Density: 0% Solid infill top: OFF Solid infill bottom: ON And in expert settings I turned on the Spiralize outer contour and set to print. It printed, spiralized the walls, great. Except for the bottom. The first two layers were fine, solid. But anything after that up to 3mm thickness, there are gaps between the extrusion lines, almost like the infil was set to something like 70 or 80%. As soon as it hit the 3mm it switched to the spiral and went on till it finished the full cup. So is there something I need to do to be able to get a thick solid bottom?
  15. Oh ok. I thought there was some magical process. Other than taking the heating element and thermister out, I have disassambled the whole entire head before, so that shouldn't be too hard. Thanks for the guidance!
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