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Everything posted by kirash4

  1. Ok. tried .10 and that too didn't work. And some things behaved slower, like clicking on some menu items and such would take a second or 5-10 to actually register. I wish the software wouldn't tell me that there's a new version available when the reality is that it's still in beta.
  2. I've been running Cura 15.04 and having no issues. I did previously install 15.06.01 but didn't actually try it. Today I launched it only to have it tell me there's an update, so I downloaded 15.06.03 and installed that instead. When I open it and load a model, I can not select the model. I can't rotate it, I can't move it, I can't do anything with it. Nothing appears to work. Back in 15.04 and it works as expected. So what changed, other than a fancy, completely unnecessary interface redesign, that's causing 15.06.x to not work? By the way, I also tried 15.06.01 and that too does not work, sa
  3. Yeah, I kinda figured it has a 50/50 chance of working depending on the piece. What I'm making though is fairly symetrical which should be okay. We'll see when I actually get to print one.
  4. Huh. Never thought it would actually do that but I'm watching the printer do it in amazement. Awesome. Makes me wonder if it would also work on small odd-shapes objects that are flat (uniform height, just not ring shaped, or solid) ... Guess there's only one way to find out. Thanks all!
  5. Is there a way to print a circular object, like a ring, without the printer doing the diagonal infil but rather have it fill it in by going in circles instead? Basically I'm trying to print a large ring shape (200mm diameter) where the thickness of the ring is 5mm (and height is 10mm). I need the infill at 100% for strength, but doing that causes it to fill it in with diagonal lines. And because I'm going to be using translucent material, having the criss-cross layers just doesn't look good. I kinda want a spiral fill, from the inner circle to the outer and moving up in layers, just going rou
  6. That's the Z-axis motor. Rather than a quick burst to move the bed down, it now gradually moves it in tandem with the movement of the xy-head. As for the loud 3rd fan, you can replace it for a (much) quieter one. I did that with mine and I don't hear the printer anymore when it's idling. When it's printing all I hear is the movements, no fans.
  7. Sometimes I end up manually moving objects around in Cura for optimal placement of multiples. For example, printing a bunch of triangles would make more sense if some are rotated 180 degrees to the next. You can put them closer together and fit more on the bed. Or if I need just a little extra time between two objects, I will move them to opposite, diagonal corners. The object I'm printing right now is a good example. Cura can only place 15 copies on the bed, however if I do it manually, I can fit 21 and still have room left for more. However, moving multiple objects is a tedious process as y
  8. Yep, setting it to no brim and letting it build a skirt instead wors perfectly. It only does the outside and ignores the inner gaps.
  9. A skirt isn't enough to hold the part down, which is why I'm using a brim. Guess I'll do it in the modeling software. Correction: a skirt might work. I had forgotten that you can change the amount of lines that the skirt lays down. So if I set that to 0.05 for distance and tell it to lay down 10-15 lines, that ought to be enough. I'm off to try that right now.
  10. I'm printing some gears that have teeth on the inside. I need the outside brim to hold the piece down while printing and I'm using 15 lines), but I don't want/need the inside brim. It's a pain to clean it up between the teeth of the gear. Is there some way of controlling this? Using the latest Cura version.
  11. You misread what I'm getting at. The *walls* of the cup are fine, and it's doing what it's supposed to. It's the BOTTOM thickness that I want changed, not the wall. That has, as far as I know, nothing to do with the walls getting spiralized.
  12. So I just installed Cura 15.01 and I'm seeing an odd visual when I launch it. With the 14.12.1 version it displays the build area right in the center. But with 15.0a, it's offset to the left a bit. Is there something that needs adjusting or re-configured, if so, what? 14.12.1 And 15.01:
  13. Well, this is kinda of annoying. I purchased my UM2 from a good friend who only had it a few months and is now moving out of the country. Both of us has the same desire: dual extrusion. Knowing that it was promised, and now being told it's not going to happen, it's never going to happen for the UM2. Had I known this back in December, I would not have purchased the printer, I would've looked at something else. So that's something that I will now have to give up on and start looking for another solution. The UM2 isn't useless as I'm still using it and can continue to use it, but for the purpose
  14. Last night I did my first ever "cup" print and using the spiral option in Cura. The design file itself is a solid cylinder. In Cura I did the following: Layer height: 0.1 mm Shell thickness: 1 mm Bottom/Top thickness: 3 mm (I want a solid, heavier bottom) Fill Density: 0% Solid infill top: OFF Solid infill bottom: ON And in expert settings I turned on the Spiralize outer contour and set to print. It printed, spiralized the walls, great. Except for the bottom. The first two layers were fine, solid. But anything after that up to 3mm thickness, there are gaps between the extrusion lines, a
  15. Oh ok. I thought there was some magical process. Other than taking the heating element and thermister out, I have disassambled the whole entire head before, so that shouldn't be too hard. Thanks for the guidance!
  16. Yeah, and I lack the latter. But you are correct, I am highly suspecting the insulator and nozzle at the moment. The main culprit right now is the insulator because I found it to be so badly burned. And while I was able to clean it, resand the bottom flat, and all of that, I did also notice that the inside of it has developed a "ridge" where material tends to solidify and over time will cause friction. So I have to tear it apart after so many hours of printing to clean that out before I can continue again. It's a bit of a hassle but I need to get through these prints right now. By month's end
  17. Will this require replacing a current UM2 board to the new one? Or are there exposed pins on the board that one can hack it? I suppose I can find this out myself, I'm just deep in printing jobs and don't feel like poking around at the moment.
  18. I have a design that is comprised of two pieces, a black ABS frame and an "insert" that's made with PLA. Basically the insert fits in the frame with edge clips that are printed on the frame. However, I'd like to just embed the piece in the frame while it's being printed, and with the PauseAtZ plugin, I can do just that. The PLA pieces are already printed, so I'm now doing the frames and when it reaches a pre-set height, the printer will pause for me to drop the PLA pieces in before continuing again. However, I've run into an issue with heat. When I drop in the PLA inserts, because they are ra
  19. Yep, I found that thread too. I haven't had to touch it in a few days because I'm back to printing ABS which works great, though I attribute that to the higher temperatures. I'm going to have to switch back to PLA shortly here (possibly as soon as tomorrow) and my nightmares will start up again. Technically I shouldn't go past 230C with PLA, but the last batch of PLA prints I did I was working at 240C with 94% extrusion (going any higher and the PLA starts to turn into something completely different.) It's simply not extruding as it should, or as well as the ABS is. So setting (or leaving) the
  20. Yeah, disassembly is easy, I got that part. Reassembly is what I'm looking for. Specifically the tolerances between the ring holding the heater block and the block itself. Mind you, it's working great right now ... but that doesn't necessarily mean it's done correctly.
  21. Hmm, yes, I suppose. I did clean up all the charred bits by gently scraping them off with an Xacto knife. The hole seems okay other than some scarring on the inside, but I can still slide a piece of filament through it without any resistance. I ended up sanding the outside because it flared out a little bit, making it a bit harder to put back inside of the insulator coupler. I didn't screw the coupler all the way back on, which basically pushes the nozzle out more, leaving a bit of a gap between the backside of the nozzle and the insulator. Once I did that and reassambled it, it's printing PLA
  22. @korneel: stock feeder So I finally had a moment to tear the head apart and pull the coupler out. It's not pretty. That's the bottom part that sits right ontop of the hot end. I suspect it was sitting low enough to be in physical contact with it and got burned to what you're seeing. Lots of burnt crud and what not came out. So I'm now stuck. I need another one, like yesterday. I don't think I can continue printing with this the way it is, well maybe ABS but I need to get some PLA prints done ASAP as well. Does anyone have suggestions on where I can get another one, quick, fast, and in a hu
  23. Alright, I'll check on it when I get back home later. Thanks for the suggestion.
  24. Switched back to ABS, and it's printing just fine. No issues what so ever. I've now tried different brands of PLA as well and they all do the same exact thing. I'm more likely to blame the printer than the material. If it was all from the same vendor or brand I can see a problem there, but with different brands and it still fails, something's up. For the record, I made sure it has the latest firmware on it, recently downloaded from Cura (the latest that's online.) I did a factory restore to see if I screwed up the settings somewhere. Nothing. It simply will not print PLA. Unfortunately, the t
  25. PLA is easier than ABS ... Yeah, that's what everyone has been telling me, except I have never been able to print with PLA. I can load up ABS and print just fine. But no such luck with PLA ... Must be me. It always seems to get two, maybe three layers out then it clogs. Blah. Anyway, I just cleaned the tube, reassembled everything, no more white bits in the tube. Tried a print and sure enough it clogs again. Usually I can tell when I start hearing the feeder gear start slipping and it gets worse and worse to where it's constantly slipping and nothing is being extruded anymore. But if I try pu
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