mohissa

I'm using glue. My problem is not so much adhesion as it is the initial layer thickness. I don't know why it's not doing what I'm asking it to do. With the 0.4mm nozzle it prints great with little to no issues. But when I switch to the 0.8mm nozzle I find the nozzle is somewhat too far from the bed. Although I have reduced the initial layer height to 0.2mm. I have printed one layer and aborted the print, then measure that layer with a caliper and it's giving me between .5mm to .7mm thickness.

Hey guys, I've been having problems with my 0.8 nozzle. I believe the problem is my settings on Cura so I would appreciate your help. The problem is that the initial layer is very thick. And in some cases (depending on the speed) it doesn't stick to the bed and the head drags it around the bed. The lines are round and obvious with spaces between them, it's not being squished into the glass. Here are my settings: 0.8mm nozzle 0.4mm layer height 0.2mm initial layer (and I tried 0.1mm as well) Infill is 100% so other stuff doesn't matter Print speed 35mm/s (20 for initial layer) 3mm PLA (it's more like 2.9mm) I levelled the bed with minimal tolerance. Lots of friction between the head the paper (but not enough for the head to touch the bed when the paper is away). When I printed it, with all the above settings, I reduced the speed from the printer to 30% but in some cases the head still drags the filament around. It's really frustrating, any clues? Thanks,

Has anyone tried bronze fill with the 0.8mm and 0.25mm nozzles? If so, can you share your experience? Thanks, Just a quick, off topic, question: can I upload photos to the forum from my phone? I can't seem to figure it out.

Twistx Try this: Turn the machine on. Try to gently wiggle the heat sensor wire with your fingers, do you get the same error? If so, you might have nicked the wires. The fans' vibrations might be causing the wires to touch each other (if exposed), or open circuit (if nicked a lot). Otherwise, I don't see how the fans can cause an error.

Titanoid, A combination of WD40 and heating the block to 100C-110C worked for me. good luck.

Hey everyone, I'm glad you all liked the video I posted. I slept at 6am as it took me all night to shoot, edit and publish the video. This is my first tutorial video and I really hope it helps someone with installing/un-installing their hot-end. Please excuse any errors you find, if there are too many, I will republish the video. Swordriff, I have added annotations to the video that include your comments (horseshoe spelling mistake --> hmm, I think that was around 3am. I guess I'm not responsible for my spelling errors after 12am :-P). You have full permission to use the video anywhere you would like. I'm a very visual person, and usually search for videos of people's experiences before I try something out. Therefore, the purpose of the video to help those who are not ready to dive-in on their own. Thanks!

Here is the video as promised: Thanks, [edit by gr5 follows] Excellent video! Try to keep the gap shown in picture below as small as possible. You want *some* gap to be sure the white isolator is touching down inside the block but as small as you can because the larger the gap, the tighter the spring, the faster your isolator will warp:

Hello everyone, So I have spent the better part of last night and this morning working on installing the 3dSolex block. The problem I had was with the temp sensor. All I was able to see coming out of the old black was the wires. I was careful not to pull on them. After a lot of thinking and tinkering, here is how I got it out: First, I used a very tiny flathead screw driver to re-crimp the wires while the sensor was inside the block. I inserted the screwdriver in the empty space and pried to one side, carefully re-crimping the wire. I wanted to make sure even if I do pull on the wires, they dont come loose. Then I used some WD40. I sprayed it through the little hole from the bottom and from the top as well. I let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then i sprayed it again and then started the heater. got it up to 100C and started wiggling the wires side to side and started to gently, but firmly, pull on them. I started to see the metal shield, so i decided turn off the heater so I can easily work on it. But lowering the temp. didnt help. So i raised it back up again, and slowly, but surely, got it out. With all this yanking and pulling, I managed to do some damage to the wire but it still works (for now at least). I really believe UM should cover me for a new sensor as this is a design flaw. UM offer nozzles on their website, so they do expect us to be able to change them. I actually shot a video while changing the block. I worked on it all night to make sure someone benefits from my experience. I am uploading the video to YouTube right now, and will post the link to it here shortly. Please let me know if there are any mistakes, or errors in the video. Thanks!

Never mind, I was able to get it out. The allen key in the kit was not the right fit. But now the temp. sensor is not coming out. the metal shell is completely inside the heater block and only the wire is visible. I am afraid to pull too hard on the wire but I dont think I have any other choice. Again, WD40?? Thanks,

Hey guys, In the process of changing the heater block but the hex screw in the old heater block is stuck. do you think heating the heater block would help? If so, what temp? Would WD40 help? any suggestions? Thanks!

Do you guys recommend printing Roberts feeder if I use 3mm filament? Or is the original feeder just as good? I'm planning on installing the custom heat block before trying 3mm filament just so it's easier to unclog if need be.

Thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions. Swordriff, as I mentioned in my post, I was printing at 210C. On the advanced tab, most of my temperatures are around 20-30. The fan was on at 100% except first layer. Retraction was on as well. Thank you for the instructions on installing the heater block. I will try to make a video when I'm changing it, if the video is any good, I will share it. Anders, the UM PLA (the filament that comes with the printer) is the only filament I have. I just received my printer last week. I'm having a problem finding filament at 2.85mm in Canada (any suggestions are welcome). Buying it from UM will get unnecessarily expensive. I'm reading on other posts about using 3mm (or 1.75mm) which seem to be more standard than 2.85mm.

Any reason why the inner part on my print looks like this? I still have not changed the nozzle (original 0.4mm nozzle) 0.1mm layer height, 100% infill, 50mm/s print speed, UM PLA, 210C/60C I dont think this will affect the torque, but i would like to know why my prints arent turning out so great. any ideas?

is there an iPhone app for this forum? or is it just through the safari?

Thanks to this great teamwork and to gr5, I have received 'the gold' (heater block and nozzle kit). Has anyone posted step-by-step instructions to changing it? or a video of some sorts? Thanks again! They look great.