izzy
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Posts posted by izzy
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To save demounting the platform and screwing them on what about bonding them on using CT1 a silicon type builders sealant that doesn't shrink or smell?
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It's worth swapping to, by replacing the spring with the spacer you prevent the filament squeezing between the coupler and the heater.
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Have you tried Korneel's Spring replacement?
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Are you running with the origional feeder or Roberts feeder?
I'm running Roberts feeder with no problems, I'm also running with the Olsson block and a 35W heater.
I only have problems if I haven't cleaned the nozzle properly or I'm running with incorrect settings. The only thing I want to do now to my feeder is fit a hobbed gear to it to better grip the filament.
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Nice, I like the tensile test, I take it your using Kg Force? But what is your Cross Sectional area, and are you testing in both a flat and vertical build orientations?
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Hi Stijn, depends where you are on the filaments you can get, and what colours you want, but in Europe, ColorFabb and Faberdashery do good PLA with a range of colours. TwoBears has a very nice 'Cotton' PLA but only one colour, Proto Pasta was a nice 'Aromatic Coffee' which is a high temperature PLA. Reprapper isn't bad either.
I can't say about ABS's as I haven't run with them yet.
If you want Flexible materials then I would say either. NinjaFlex, SemiFlex or Recreus's 'FilaFlex'
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Hi Wisar, I've done a design for ducted nozzles you may want to have a look at, they can swing out of the way to give you full axis to the nozzle and you can adjust the height from the workpiece,and doesn't need any screws. if you do try it let me know what you think
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2
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I agree interesting to see the nozzle pressure.
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Forgot to say congrats on getting second place for your cannon print
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It's ok for you down under, no chance here in the UK of getting it unless you work in a chemical lab.
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Good results, I admit I run with the 35W heater, but it's good to see the differences. It would be interesting to measure the current. I would have thought that after 5 minutes they would have reached a stable temperature, so I wonder if there is a constant current or a fluctuation. Also to have a second point reading of the main body to see if the body temperature is the same at each point and the variation is just in the nozzle.
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Hi Labern, what was the heater wattage, how long did you allow for the temperature to settle and what were you using to measure the temperatures?
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Let me know your settings and put up a photo, I want to try some abs a bit later, will be interested in what you succeeded with glueing onto the platform. Good luck with it.
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What adhesive are you using on the bed?
I've not printed ABS yet but I think you need to coat the bed with a solution of acatone and ABS for the print to adhere to.
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Wow you got one, how on earth did you actually get one?
I take it its a 3mm version and what voltage etc? How well does it function, any pictures, whereabouts are you located.
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Lol I meant what type of filament welder etc. Produced by, filament size, website, or is it an actual fuse clamp one.
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What are the details etc?
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Having heard nothing for over two weeks, and checking the Kickstarter site it looks like a sham, I have contacted PayPal for a full refund due to failure to deliver.
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I ordered a fuse clamp on the 5th January this year 2016, but apart from the conformation email which I presume is automated I have had no further feed back, does anybody know if they are still trading etc. I payed by PayPal but if I don't get any other communication from them in the next two weeks I will have to cancel the order and contact PayPal for a refund
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Faberdashery Artic White is great and so is Architects Stone. Both print well etc. And they have a great customer service
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I would recommend the Olsson block upgrade and to a 35w heater to everybody, if you also get a temperature sensor as well if you have any problems removing the old ones you are covered. You will notice the difference, that along with Roberts Feeder are the 1st two upgrades I'd recommend to everyone
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As with the guys above, ColorFabb and Faberdashery are good, TwoBears Linen was also very nice prints at a lower temperature.
Whatever you do don't buy cheap filament.
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Hi dvdmcd, you are not getting 100% coverage from the filament being extruded, it could be that there is a partial blockage in your nozzle, have you tried the automic pull cleaning method?, also are you still running the origional print head or an Olsson print head? If your running the Olsson block I would try replacing the nozzle. Alternately you may need to increase temperature and flow rate a little.
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Following up on the four PoroLay filaments from Kai Parthy.
Initially printed on the 1st and 2nd of January 2016 and then placed submerged in water for 5 days (water changed daily) they were removed on the 7th January and left to air dry. the 1st photo shows them just having been removed from the soak.
Having dried at room temperature for one week the 2nd photo shows their current state as of. todays date January 17th 2016. all parts were produced using the standard UltimakerRobot Cura file at a layer height of 0.1mm, and standing 35mm tall.
i) LayFelt, Nozzle temperature 225-230'C, Bed 40-50'C
I'm not happy i have the correct settings for LayFelt as the test pieces suffer from delamination. Post processing LayFelt has a paper feel similar to a wasp nest or a dense polystyrene, and about the same feel when compressed with your fingers, not very flexible.
ii) LayGel, Nozzle temperature 225-235'C,Bed 40-50'C
This printed better at 235-240'C and produced a nice print, initially expanding in water it has dried and shrank to approximately 80% of Z height, it is now firmer than LayFelt and not flexible.
iii) LayFomm40, Nozzle Temperature 220-230'C
This has a slightly waxy feel, has shrunk to approximately 60% of Z height, it is the most flexible of the four filaments although I feel will delaminate quickly with repeated squeezing.
iv) LayFomm60, simular to LayFomm40 in printing and feel it has shrunk less, to approximately 92% of Z height, it is more rigid than LayFomm40 only slightly flexible.
Summary; These materials are described as for experimental use by experienced users, and without further testing to find the optimum repeatable settings these are just my initial findings on these four samples, and I would need to do more samples varying layer height as well to dial in the best settings, perhaps printing at 0.2mm layer height would have a difference on the Z variants witnessed. I would also need to have a test piece that would perhaps suit the material characteristics, perhaps a more open celled test piece, although the failed test pieces were also soaked and had the same results in the axis of expansion. I would also need to look closely under a microscope at a cut cross section of a sample to see what happens to the 'extruded section/s' to see the effect of the rinsing away of the 'soluble component' on the materials cell structure.
It will be interesting to see others testing results and compare findings, at the moment I can identify no defined use for these materials but thats what experimenting and testing is all about, i wouldn't deter others from getting some samples and giving them a try, if you do please post up your findings, Izzy
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problem printing colorfabb PLA
in Materials & profiles
Posted
On the whole I have little problems with ColorFabb PLA and PLA/PHA. I use a bed temperature of 50'C and I use a good quality hairspray on the glass which I have found better than the glue sticks. Then I have a nozzle temperature of approximately 200-205'C and in general I'm running at 40-50mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer.
A lot of people are having problems trying to run faster, uping temperature speed and feed and then having problems, calm down and run at the recommended settings and usually it will work fine, if not check your print head, is the nozzle clean and is everything in line and tight.