izzy
-
Posts
223 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by izzy
-
-
Cheers Guys, I'll stick with the stable one and wait for the new stable version to be released hopefully with those bells and whistles as I quite liked them
-
Thanks xisle, so I take it I was using a beta version, which seems strange as I usually just check for an upgrade through Cura.
But if it was a beta version it would explained the 20%fill problem which would give 2% fill yet 21% and 22% were fine:-)
-
Hi Guys, I've been non active for a couple of months, Exams/Holidays/family etc. And had to completely restore my laptop after a failed Windows 10 upgrade.
So, I download the latest Cura 15.04.2 open it up and the look is the same as right back at the start of the year.
I'm sure the last version I was using had a different look and all the options on the right hand side, and with different options for the infill and faces, including line, grid, concentric etc.
Did I previously download a beta version or have I missed something.
Cheers guys for any feed back
-
I use either some small side cutters or a pair or claw cutters that I have for my cats, both are. Easy to use and give a good cut
-
Thanks neotko,
I printed the Marvin with good results, I did reduce the speed a little but not over much for the test, th main problem I had was that after a few prints I couldn't get the CF20 prints to stick to the platform.
I don't intend to do a lot of printing with XT-CF20 but wanted to be able to use it if needed, I will try again in a few weeks with a reduced speed.
I recieved my new heater from Swordriff on Monday and fitted it so now able to drive the fans a bit harder without effecting the temperature and so will also help with the stainless nozzles.
Although I got a good Marvin print with the CF20 and with a PLA, I'm having problems with the final hoop when using normal XT, just can't get a good quality loop, :angry:
-
Hi Guys, I'm after some advice for using XT-CF20.
I've had the Olson system up and running for several months and this weekend I decided to try the CF20 with a stainless nozzle.
I printed the UM robot, and a very nice print it was too, and I also printed a Malvin test print to see about getting my Hub up and running, again a very nice print.
However, now I'm having problems with adhesion to the build plate, I've been using glue sticks and I've also tried hairspray, and varying the temperatures between 60 & 70 for the build plate as well as 240-260 for the nozzle.
The material starts to extrude and lay down but then it starts adhering to the nozzle and not the bed or the part.
What have you guys found the best to print successfully with CF20?
-
They will be approximately what I put in my post.
-
1
-
-
Hi Esteban,
I have approximately 1mm (1.15mm) gap between the bottom of the stainless steel spacer and the Olson heater block top face, I have been printing this setup for a few months now no problems.
With the I2K spacer between the stainless steel spacer and the PTFE coupler, I have a gap of 2.3mm between the top face of the SS spacer and the mating face of the PTFE coupler.
I was going to add a photo but can't find the icon anymore.
Hope that's helpful, Izzy
-
:angry: I just wanted to rant about those that wrongly Categorise parts.
I'm sorry but a Lego brick, a bottle top, a spiky vase, a pencil box, ... ARE NOT 3D printer parts and enhancements! :angry:
When looking for interesting items to improve and enhance my printer, I doubt that myself and many others are looking for a model of Buddha or a puzzle box, the clue is in the title 3D printer parts and enhancements there are 13 other categories that would better fit your item8)
Perhaps a button to highlight a part is in the wrong grouping and can be moved would help if publishers can't place it in the right category!
-
Hi Niles,
I think you will find that this will vary between machines as the nature of the bed levelling with the three screws allows for a lot of variation with the range.
I must admit It would be nice to be able to have a position readout for the Z height that could be then used for offsetting, perhaps the programming Gods will enable it in a future version of Cura, I will sacrifice a glass of milk and a cookie to the God of Cura programmers for this under maintenance 8)
-
Nice render Anders, what software do you use? 8)
-
Hi Small,
I've just looked at my UM2 which I got in October 2014 and I don't have a split like you are showing in your photo, looks like it may have been over tightened whilst not being seated properly and split.
-
The origional glue supplied was great it didn't try out on the heated bed and could be easily removed, some others I have tried have tended to dry out and then been hard to remove from the glass.
I have found that the basic glue stick from STAPLES has been good, but something else was a good quality hairspray, (I pinched a can from my wife as I'm solar powered) this was great as it gave an even thin layer, but I needed to remove the glass to clean it off and reapply about every 15th print. But it gave a good 1st layer adhesion with a nice smooth finish.
-
I've been using it with the origional heater and sensor for weeks now, the only thing I've done is reduced the fan speed for the initial layers, works very well, much better print quality.
-
I can't see the model other than the file, does it have a lot of retractions?
For PLA I would try 205'C to 210'C, I would also check that all the various screws are nipped up tight. Also check the pressure on your feeder, if the pressure is too high, during a lot of extractions, the filament can get squashed which then will get stuck as it reaches the coupler before entering the nozzle. To check, heat the nozzle to about 200 and then manually pull back the filament, have a look at the shape of the filament near the end. If it is squashed adjust the feeder to reduce the pressure, I would then recommend printing off Roberts improved feeder it's the bees knees, much easier to set up a nice pressure and swap filaments. I've also done a few little bits to help add to Roberts feeder.
-
Anders can't go!
Quick somebody design and print an "Anders Restraint" so he can't leave.
Please make from PLA, 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1 - 0.2 layer height. 50mm/s, 5mm retraction @25mm/s. 25% fans at 2mm, 50% fans at 5mm.
Hang on in there every body it's improving almost every day,
-
1
-
-
Hi Paban,
I got the heater error message when I switched over too, but I am running with modified fan ducts. My error occurs when the temperature drops to 10'C below the required nozzle temperature. My error is caused when the fans came on as the heater was unable to keep up with the temperature change on the block caused by the fans switching on when only a few layers built.
I now have my fans dialled down to 50% and have not had any problems with the building. (my fans had been reduced to 75% due to the changed ducts so now running at 50%)
-
Things look better if you can take a step back,
Then grab a coffee and a biscuit,
Then take a few more steps back and grap a beer and a meal, and a sleep and .... I see the answer its 42!
-
1
-
-
Anybody that believes in 'Right First Time' is not an engineer, we learn more from what doesn't work than what does, it helps us to refine and develop, and if we weren't interested in being at the cutting edge we wouldn't have a 3D printer.
It's better to be quite and observe what's going on and others think your an idiot than open you mouth and prove them right.
Let's give the developers help and support not criticism and scorn in the development of this forum site
-
If possible could they add "sort by latest first" would save scrolling to the far end each time 8)
-
1
-
-
Is it just ColorFabb XT that sticks to the inside or all copolyesters? I have some FormFutura which is a copolyesters to test.
Done about 33.5 hours on various PLAs so far.
-
Hi Leigh, some times it can tangle, ive designed a comprehensive filament holder that can be adjusted to all diameters, I use it for my Faberdashery filaments, I mount it on my dovetail mounting system, both availabe on YouMagine.
I mount it on the top edge on my um2, untangle the filament once as I load it for the 1st time, no problems since, I then use my little clips and loom bands to retain the filament in storage without retangling.
Take a look no obligations :-)
Izzy
-
Have you verified the part in some other software, I'm not sure on the accuracy of sketchup
-
Well today my replacement fan arrived for the main head.
I orderd and recieved the Sunon MC25060V2-A99 of of ebay from it-tronics.de.
So what's the difference I hear you say?
Well I can actually hear you , initially the lead was a bit short so also having a raspberry Pi and loads of stuff to play with I extended the wires and then added the connector.
I got them from www.proto-pic.co.uk, both the housing and the pins.
Connected it up and turned it on!, bugger can't hear it had to check it was spinning and it was wahoo one happy bunny,
Before I took the old one out I checked the airflow with a windoo skywatch 3 and got about 2.7 to 3.1 m/s and a dB of 67, I SAID 67.
With the replacement fan in place the air flow was again between 2.8 and 3.2 and the dB was only 45dB I done a few test runs this afternoon and so far everything is running fine.
Now it's a lot quieter sitting next to the UM2 as its printing, well worth the £15 ish for all the bits, would have been a bit better if the leads on the fan were just 4cm longer
Cura Time warp?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Cheers SandervG,
It's a shame to select just one as the best answer as all tend to be helpful, but Labern just pipped it for me.
Thanks to all for your replies, Izzy