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leonardo-aguiar

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Posts posted by leonardo-aguiar

  1. Hi zoev89,

     

    I have an Ultimaker 2. Here's a thread I started with the details of what I'm trying to troubleshoot. 

    Thanks for the schematic. The title says "3DPrinterFanHeater". Are you sure that's the correct circuit diagram? What are CONN_2 P1 and K1 CONN_3? Sorry my knowledge about electronics is still very limited.

     

    Thanks!

  2. On 9/6/2015 at 1:50 PM, zoev89 said:

    The E3D is 12V but you can also get a 24V version for the same price. I bought a 24V version since it fits well with the 24V power supply of my heated bed. Running the E3D from 19V is a bit problematic. It eather gets too hot or does not heatup enough. I know some people using the 12V version on 19V and tune the PID bit stayed away from that. If you connect the 24V version with a external power supply make sure the 24V can never enter your board electronics. I connected it with a external mosfet just to make sure.

     

    I'm having issues with temperature fluctuations. I searched the forums and read about using a higher wattage heat cartridge on the E3Dv6 hotend. I installed the more powerful heater and now I have problems with the printer shutting off during heat up. I researched some more on here and saw suggestions about getting a higher power supply. Got one and now I'm searching for info on how to properly wire it so that I don't damage the Ultimainboard. Can you please share a diagram of how you wired the external mosfet to protect the printer's electronics? Also which mosfet did you choose? I got a 24V 20A power supply.

     

    Thanks

  3. Hi forum,

     

    I have an E3D v6 on an Ultimaker 2. The electronics on it are the Ultimainboard 2.1.1 and the power supply's output is 24V 9.2A 221W Max.

     

    After having heat fluctuation issues I attempted to fix them with PID Autotuning but the problems remained. I did some searching here in the forum and read on one of the topics that a higher power heat cartridge could solve the problem. So I changed the ~20 Ohm heat cartridge that was running on 24V.

     

    I placed a 4.2 Ohm heat cartridge and in the firmware I changed the PID_MAX setting to 64. I reflashed the firmware and everything seemed to be working. With a multimeter I measured the voltage across to the new heat cartridge and it always stays below 7V when I heat up the nozzle in maintenance mode.

     

    Everything works in maintenance mode. I am able to heat up the nozzle up to the desired temperature. However if I try to print a file from the SD card the printer begins to heat up then shuts down.

     

    I also tried running PID Autotune with Printrun after installing the 4.2 Ohm resistor and got a PID Autotune failure message back saying the temperature got too high. I set the autotune gcode to 180C and monitored the temperature on the Ultimaker's LCD screen. The temperature shot up to 190C during the autotune attempt.

     

    Also the Ultimainboard seems to shut off right after the bed has reached it's temperature and the nozzle heat up is triggered to start. The red LED indicating that the nozzle circuit is on flashes on right before the board shuts off.

     

    Has anyone had this problem? How can I know if I'm drawing too much current and triggering some sort of protection designed into the electronics? Do I need a power supply with a higher rating?

     

    Thanks for the help.

  4. Hi guys,

     

    I have an UM2 and its LEDs haven't been turning on for a while now. I finally took them off and would like some help if possible. I have checked the board and when it's on the pins for the LEDs are giving 24V. I pulled up its report and this is the info it gave me:

     

    Machine on for: 2588:20

    Printing: 2174:48

    Mat: 3854m

     

    What do the first two mean? Is the format hours:minutes?

     

    Attached are some pictures of the LEDs, One of the wires leading from one strip to another has its insulation stripped off some how. I'm not sure if this is the issue because I checked the strips continuity and all segments are fine. I did this by scraping the glue off of the back side of the strips where there are visible electrical contacts. I checked with a multimeter.

     

    Even where the LED's contacts are really brown (in one picture) there still is a working connection there.

     

    As for the brownish aspect of the LEDs, I think this might be a sign that they have gone bad. Does anyone know what this might be?

     

    Thanks for the help.

    IMG_5192.jpg

    IMG_5193.jpg

    IMG_5194.jpg

    IMG_5195.jpg

    IMG_5196.jpg

  5. Thanks for helping gr5.

     

    I upgraded my UM2 with the e3D Titan extruder and hotend.

     

    My goal is to optimize print time depending on quality.

     

    0.8mm nozzle x 0.4mm layers x 100mm/s speed = 32mm^3/s

     

    That's way above the 10mm^3/s throughput you talked about for the 0.4mm nozzle. Is there a way to calculate the max throughput for different nozzle sizes?

     

    It's finally good to know that the UM2 black feeder should be kept around 5lbs. I think I might have been printing too fast for many of my prints. Too many failures made me buy the e3D upgrade.

  6. On 7/1/2015 at 1:11 PM, gr5 said:

    So 50mm/sec at .2mm layer height would be (easy to do in your head) 4mm^3/sec or a bit above my recommended limit of 5mm^3/sec unless you go up to 240C (less viscous). .1mm layer height you can print faster with no underextrusion.

    Shouldn't it say "a bit below my recommended"?

  7. Nozzle Diameter (mm) Layer Height (mm) Print Speed (mm/min) Print Speed (mm/sec) Throughput (mm^3/sec)
    0.40
    0.05
    1000.00 16.67 0.33
    2000.00 33.33 0.67
    3000.00 50.00 1.00
    4000.00 66.67 1.33
    5000.00 83.33 1.67
    0.10
    1000.00 16.67 0.67
    2000.00 33.33 1.33
    3000.00 50.00 2.00
    4000.00 66.67 2.67
    5000.00 83.33 3.33
    0.15
    1000.00 16.67 1.00
    2000.00 33.33 2.00
    3000.00 50.00 3.00
    4000.00 66.67 4.00
    5000.00 83.33 5.00
    0.20
    1000.00 16.67 1.33
    2000.00 33.33 2.67
    3000.00 50.00 4.00
    4000.00 66.67 5.33
    5000.00 83.33 6.67
    0.25
    1000.00 16.67 1.67
    2000.00 33.33 3.33
    3000.00 50.00 5.00
    4000.00 66.67 6.67
    5000.00 83.33 8.33
    0.30
    1000.00 16.67 2.00
    2000.00 33.33 4.00
    3000.00 50.00 6.00
    4000.00 66.67 8.00
    5000.00 83.33 10.00
  8. On 7/1/2015 at 1:11 PM, gr5 said:

    To calculate the volume multiple .4mm nozzle by layer height by speed. So 50mm/sec at .2mm layer height would be (easy to do in your head) 8mm^3/sec or well above my recommended limit of 5mm^3/sec unless you go up to 240C (less viscous).

    0.4 x 0.2 x 50 = 4

    no?

  9. Hi community,

     

    I've upgraded my UM2's extruder and hot end to the e3D titan kit.

     

    For some reason my prints are showing up centralized in Cura (15.04.6) but on the print bed they are off to the right and for one print all the models were yellow in Cura but then during the print I got an error message that the printer tried to print outside of the print area.

     

    Any tips for what might be the cause of this?

     

    Thanks

  10. So just to confirm. Dirty SD contacts can cause the printer to incorrectly position the head and go outside of the print area. Right?

     

    If the SD contacts have been checked and the issue persists, where would you begin trouble shooting?

     

    Just some background info. I upgraded my UM2 to have an e3D titan extruder and hot end. Now my sliced gcode looks centralized in Cura but my prints are way off to the right side on the print bed.

     

  11. Hi Sebastian,

    Were you able to remove the broken heater cartridge out of the heater block? If so how?

    I have this same problem. I think the heater cartridge fused with the heater block due to a tight fit and a long print.

    A while ago I had some heater blocks locally made. I was surprised that the technical drawing of the heater block (provided at the Ultimaker GitHub repo) did not specifiy the diameter of the hole for the heater cartridge.

    Attached is the technical drawing of the heater block.

    5a331549260ff_B1301-Z2P-Dintegratednozzle3mm.thumb.jpg.741c26cec4a8c1f9379e1d22b946acce.jpg

    Does anyone know what this diameter should be? Since the heater cartridge has a 4mm diameter should the heater block hole for it have a 4.1mm diameter? Or should it be greater still? How much does the heater cartridge expand when it is heated? How much does the heater block hole expand when heated?

    Thanks for helping guys.

    Best regards.

    Leo

    5a331549260ff_B1301-Z2P-Dintegratednozzle3mm.thumb.jpg.741c26cec4a8c1f9379e1d22b946acce.jpg

  12. This has just happened to me. After a week of printing with glow in the dark filament (not colorfabb) I switched filaments to another ABS. I was getting a lot of under extrusion so I decided to take the nozzle apart. The glow in the dark filament had already caused various clogs so I figured I had another one. I printed maybe around 70 hrs with it. I ended up using a full 1kg spool.

    I uploaded a picture of my nozzle to Flickr. The damage on the sides is from when I was holding on to it with plyers while I cleaned the insides with a pick in an acetone bath. The filament would gunk up and latch on to the inner walls. It would take a good 40min of jabbing at it to make the burnt filament snap off. I was running it at 230ºC, well within the 220-260ºC range specified on the packaging.

    Here's the link to the photo:

    UM2-destroyed-nozzle

    If glow in the dark filament can do this to brass what can air born nano particles of it do to our lungs?

    Does anyone know where I can get a replacement in São Paulo, Brazil?

     

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