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Everything posted by leonardo-aguiar

  1. Hi zoev89, I have an Ultimaker 2. Here's a thread I started with the details of what I'm trying to troubleshoot. Thanks for the schematic. The title says "3DPrinterFanHeater". Are you sure that's the correct circuit diagram? What are CONN_2 P1 and K1 CONN_3? Sorry my knowledge about electronics is still very limited. Thanks!
  2. I'm having issues with temperature fluctuations. I searched the forums and read about using a higher wattage heat cartridge on the E3Dv6 hotend. I installed the more powerful heater and now I have problems with the printer shutting off during heat up. I researched some more on here and saw suggestions about getting a higher power supply. Got one and now I'm searching for info on how to properly wire it so that I don't damage the Ultimainboard. Can you please share a diagram of how you wired the external mosfet to protect the printer's electronics? Also which mosfet did you choose? I got a 24V
  3. Currently planning on making a higher power supply for my printer. Found this datasheet online. I think this topic can benefit having it. https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/GS220/GS220-spec.pdf
  4. Bought a 24V 20A power supply. Will be adapting it to connect to the Ultimainboard. I read in another topic that that amount of power is higher than what the Ultimainboard is designed to handle. What should I watch out for and do so that I don't damage the board?
  5. Hi forum, I have an E3D v6 on an Ultimaker 2. The electronics on it are the Ultimainboard 2.1.1 and the power supply's output is 24V 9.2A 221W Max. After having heat fluctuation issues I attempted to fix them with PID Autotuning but the problems remained. I did some searching here in the forum and read on one of the topics that a higher power heat cartridge could solve the problem. So I changed the ~20 Ohm heat cartridge that was running on 24V. I placed a 4.2 Ohm heat cartridge and in the firmware I changed the PID_MAX setting to 64. I reflashed the firmwar
  6. Thank you for the info geert_2. Do you suggest any LEDs strips available for sale that should work better / last longer with the Ultimaker2?
  7. Hi guys, I have an UM2 and its LEDs haven't been turning on for a while now. I finally took them off and would like some help if possible. I have checked the board and when it's on the pins for the LEDs are giving 24V. I pulled up its report and this is the info it gave me: Machine on for: 2588:20 Printing: 2174:48 Mat: 3854m What do the first two mean? Is the format hours:minutes? Attached are some pictures of the LEDs, One of the wires leading from one strip to another has its insulation stripped off some how. I'm not sure if this is
  8. Thanks for helping gr5. I upgraded my UM2 with the e3D Titan extruder and hotend. My goal is to optimize print time depending on quality. 0.8mm nozzle x 0.4mm layers x 100mm/s speed = 32mm^3/s That's way above the 10mm^3/s throughput you talked about for the 0.4mm nozzle. Is there a way to calculate the max throughput for different nozzle sizes? It's finally good to know that the UM2 black feeder should be kept around 5lbs. I think I might have been printing too fast for many of my prints. Too many failures made me buy the e3D upgrade
  9. Shouldn't it say "a bit below my recommended"?
  10. I'm planning on testing speeds for my printer so I did the table in the above post. Is it safe to say that since the throughputs are low when printing with lower layer heights, then I can increase the speeds drastically?
  11. Nozzle Diameter (mm) Layer Height (mm) Print Speed (mm/min) Print Speed (mm/sec) Throughput (mm^3/sec) 0.40 0.05 1000.00 16.67 0.33 2000.00 33.33 0.67 3000.00 50.00 1.00 4000.00 66.67 1.33 5000.00 83.33 1.67 0.10 1000.00 16.67 0.67 2000.00 33.33
  12. Hi gr5, Now that you mentioned it, I noticed that the nozzle is visibly further to the right in comparison with the original UM2 hot end. I'm guessing I need to adjust Cura for this? I don't know how. Do you? Thanks
  13. OK. Thanks. Started this topic: I checked the machine settings. The width and depth were set to 230 x 230. Reduced it to 205x205 now. Will check if the problem persists. Thanks again.
  14. Hi community, I've upgraded my UM2's extruder and hot end to the e3D titan kit. For some reason my prints are showing up centralized in Cura (15.04.6) but on the print bed they are off to the right and for one print all the models were yellow in Cura but then during the print I got an error message that the printer tried to print outside of the print area. Any tips for what might be the cause of this? Thanks
  15. So just to confirm. Dirty SD contacts can cause the printer to incorrectly position the head and go outside of the print area. Right? If the SD contacts have been checked and the issue persists, where would you begin trouble shooting? Just some background info. I upgraded my UM2 to have an e3D titan extruder and hot end. Now my sliced gcode looks centralized in Cura but my prints are way off to the right side on the print bed.
  16. Hi guys, I had a print where one of the corners of the print bed had underextrusion issues. Images are at the flickr link below. Underextrusion issue Has this ever happened to anyone? Does someone know what could be the cause of this? Thanks. Best regards. Leo
  17. Hi Sebastian, Were you able to remove the broken heater cartridge out of the heater block? If so how? I have this same problem. I think the heater cartridge fused with the heater block due to a tight fit and a long print. A while ago I had some heater blocks locally made. I was surprised that the technical drawing of the heater block (provided at the Ultimaker GitHub repo) did not specifiy the diameter of the hole for the heater cartridge. Attached is the technical drawing of the heater block. Does anyone know what this diameter should be? Since the heater cartridge has a 4mm diameter s
  18. This has just happened to me. After a week of printing with glow in the dark filament (not colorfabb) I switched filaments to another ABS. I was getting a lot of under extrusion so I decided to take the nozzle apart. The glow in the dark filament had already caused various clogs so I figured I had another one. I printed maybe around 70 hrs with it. I ended up using a full 1kg spool. I uploaded a picture of my nozzle to Flickr. The damage on the sides is from when I was holding on to it with plyers while I cleaned the insides with a pick in an acetone bath. The filament would gunk up and latch
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