emilio2
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Posts posted by emilio2
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Hi, i have lost the feeder metallic eyelet. Apparently there is no difference printing without it, but I would like to replace it.
Is this a standard part I can find on any hardware store or is it something specific to the printer ?
E.
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For those looking for an alternative to Ninjaflex, i have tried Flexismart on my UM2+ with Bondtech DDG kit. It prints nicely at 70mm/sec. Printed parts have a very nice finish, that remembers somewhat natural rubber. They sell 250gr packs in case you dont want to risk the whole spool price, although it is cheaper than other alternatives. I can tell you that i have finished the first spool in a couple of days, with no failed parts. Give it a try if you like flexible materials.
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Yes, I did change the feeder.I am using the DDG Kit on a UM2+.
I did not replaced firmware as Cura 3.3 fails to do so. I checked this point with Bondtech support and they confirmed this.
So I applied the gcode patch by hand and then measured filament steps using S3D software in command mode.
For measuring filament motion I removed the tube so I measured a straight piece of filament (not the filament inside the curved tube).
Actually I had to use 325 instead of Bondtech recommended 311 value for feeder estep.
Now the filament moves exactly 10cms when i pass E100 command.
The feeder works well and everything I printed so far is okay.
I can print faster consistently with three filaments I have tried (one of them flexible).
In the negative side, the Y axis noise has increased notably, and cannot locate the source!!.
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I have used this, is it correct?
M302 S0G92 E0G0 E100
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Well, I did move the filament to the middle using the printer menu. Now, how do I run the MOVE command? ?
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I did run the gcode patch. Now when I change material the filament does not reach the head. It stops about 2cms away the head. And the same happens when rewinding the filament, it does not exit the feeder fully, I need to pull it down by hand.
So,i wonder, is the gcode patch actualy working? Do i need to reset the machine perhaps ?
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Thanks!. Which gcodes do i need to set ? And which is the procedure to send them to the printer ? Do i need to apply them again after a UM firmware upgrade?
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It is UM2+, using Bondtech DDG Kit.
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Hi.
does anyone know what is exactly the Bondtech firmware patch?
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After some retries, I dont know why, it now displays "Connected Via USB". However when I chose "Upgrade Firmare"+"Upload Custom Firmware" a progress bar window show "Updating Firmware" and hangs up there. After 10 minutes the progress bar is at zero.
If i press Close button I can see again the message "The printer is not connected".
I am able to repeat the process with exactly the same result again and again.
Might this be the firmware file itself? (i recently upgraded to Cura 3.3)
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Hi.
I am trying to upgrade the printer with Bondtech custom firmware. However, when I go to Preferences-Printers it tells "Connection: The printer is not connected".
However, In Windows 10 Device Manager I can see Arduino Mega 2560 connected on COM5.
When I connect the cable the printer prints the following message: "Printing with USB", then the main menu comes up.
Is there anything I can do to fix this problem?
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Lowering fan speed did the trick. The printed parts have a very nice finish but i have found them to be not so strong, despite using 80% infill. I can crack 3mm walls easily.
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Hi everybody.
I have been trying to print "something" with Colorfabb nGen LUX Diamond Black in my UM2+ without much success so far.
I have tried several nozzle temperatures, from 210 to 240, and several printing speeds and layer height.
The major problem I see are large spots here and there, poor adhesion and, apparently, not enough filament feed.
The feeder on the back on the printer jumps often when using this filament. I have checked it and looks fine (it does not jump with other filaments).
The filament is oily to the touch, so I believe this might be the reason for feeder jumping.
Has anyone tried this filament with success on UM2/UM2+? If so, which setting have you used?
E.
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Forget it. It was a TAZ5 model that had copied my mistake to mi usual UM SD card!
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The leds blink all the time, until I shut off the printer. I can even print a piece and leds are happily blinkg all the way. It affects only the left vertical side. The top and right leds do not blink. Is it easy to replace these led strips ?
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The head/nozzle set has started to kick on the left bottom clip when print starts. It literally drags over the clip, making a small jump to free the obstacle.
This is the first time i have observed this behavior.
I have measured level of the platform with a bubble level and it is perfectly horizontal.
Anything else I can check ?
Emilio.
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Hi,
i have started my UM2(with + upgrade) printer today and the leds on the left side were blinking. They still blink.
Is there anything i can check to fix this problem ?
Regards.
Emilio.
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Thanks for your detailed answer!
By the way, how can I place the filament on the floor? Is there any special spool holder to this purpose ?.
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Nallath, you are right. I have tested the speed test cylinder and fails above 3mm3/s. I am using robert's feeder and apparently it works well, no skipping. Have performed two atomic cleanings and have tried three different spools. I have been using Roberts feeder for some weeks with success, until today.
Is there anything else to look for?
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Cylinder of 8mm x 65mm..(with a base of 20x8mm)
Layer 0.2.
Infill: 100%
Speed: 40mm
PLA at 210C
BED at 60C
Filament: UM PLA White pearl.
When I print this cylinder I get severe diagonal stripes from about two thirds to top.
The strips look like threads on a threaded screw.
The bottom half of the cylinder looks smooth, without any visible artifact.
The effect looks like I had rotated by hand the top half while printing!.
Hiowever the part does not move from its original location while printing. Actually it takes some effort to remove it from the plate. I use stick glue.
Which could be the expalantion for these stripes? The Z axis screw perhaps?
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Hi Mike.
I bought my UM2 printer from a dentist. He sold the printer because he was unable to get the quality he needed to print dental models.
Emilio.
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Kring, you can use other software such as Simplify 3D or Pronterface. These allow to print through USB. Besides printing, USB control is useful to perform printer tests.
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Whenever I change filaments the tefflon tube (the one on the feeders top) comes out of the white collar .
Which is the right way to insert the collar/tube on the feeder in order to hold them in place all the time ?
emilio.
Where to buy a new UM2 PSU ?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi.
Where can I buy a new PSU brick for my old UM2?
It has started to make a 'fleeeer' noise, the display blinks and the leds too. So it seems something is not going well in the PSU.
I have found the Ultimaker store does not sell any original printer parts. Should I start looking on ebay ?
E.