emilio2
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Posts posted by emilio2
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I have been trying some PLA samples from the Colorfabb samples kit, on my UM2. The kit is new, so I understand the filament is the latest Colorfabb is selling.(They sell this filament as PLA/PHA).
The parts I print do not stick to the build platform no matter what temperature I use. And the layers do no stick to each other, so there are layer displacements here and there.
I have tried bed temperatures from 60 to 75C and hotend from 210 to 235C.
Speed is set at 50mm.
I have no problems using other filaments like Ultimaker PLA or even cheap bulk PLA filaments.
Other than the adherence problem, I have found the printed parts come out pretty soft. I can bend them easily(without breaking them), which is not typical of PLA parts.
Has anyone experienced this problem with Colorfabb filaments?
Which is the right setting for these filaments to print on UM2 ?
emilio.
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I have tried a Colorfabb box of PLA samples. I have used 60 and 75C bed temps and 210C extruder. The parts do no stick at all to the buildplate. Do i need perhaps higher temps on the hotend?. It is pretty disappointing for a filament on the expensive side.:-(
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Pues eso. Ofrezco gratis una impresora Prusa i3 Steel. Montada. Funciona muy bien, pero ya no tengo sitio para mas impresoras. Solo recogida local.
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Having a hotend with no oozing is easy. Just put a suck pump on the hotend. Cheap and hassle free. This kind of suck pump is used all the time for printing machines.
CLIP is not a replacement for FDM printers. Resin printers will never be printers for home use. If you have used one for one week you will understand why. It remembers me those photo labs we used many years ago to develop photo prints.
The technology i see as more likely to be the one we will have in our desktops in the future is HP fusion technolgy.
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Vendida!
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Pm_dude, what is the Olson block?
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Those of you using Robert's feeder, which length are you using for the 'YokeAndHub' part?.(there are lengths from 35 to 40mm).
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I have used Taulman Bridge even in very thin parts and have not find that problem. Bridge is not exaactly nylon, so perhaps it behaves a little different.
Nylon is used for fishing lines (they are 100% pure nylon) and these do no get weaker when wet. Any material that gets weaker when wet would be an awful material for fishing!
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I thought the back screw had to be as much tight as possible. Is it necessary to tight/lose that screw when calbrating bed?. I never touch it.
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Swordriff, he is using a SLA printer, Pegasus Touch.
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Fantastic tutorial!
The only factor I dont like he is using a Pegasus printer, not an UM. :-|
Could one print such a small parts with decent details using UM ?.
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Hi.
Was it me or the forums have been out for the latest 24 hours ?
emilio.
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You can do it with any software the same way you do it with other printers. although Ultimaker does not support this way of printing probably to avoid headaches with support.
BTW, I have observed that after printing with USB cable (for instance, using Printerafce) you should not try to print immediately after from SD because the printer goes crazy trying to hit its head against the walls!!:-(.
My solution is to put the printer off before trying to print again from SD. Don't know if this is a bug or some sort of funny behavior but it is pretty scary!.
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Many people on eBay auto-bids and thats is not enugh to tell he/she is a scammer. On the artcile you point out the item is a buy-now offser so I cannot see the way to auto-bid. On the other hand he/she has a good feedback selling the same kind of artciles. Cannot see the 'scam' anywhere.
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Vendo Ultimaker 2.
En perfecto estado.
Precio 1485 Euros.(más gastos de envío)
La puedo mandar a cualquier sitio de España excepto las islas.
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korneel, that rail is nice but it takes a lot of space. I would prefer some sideways mount or even some support to put the spool under the table. The PTFE in my UM2 is like new, no signs of damage.
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Hi.
I was sick about the original UM2 feeder so I replaced it with a Rober design feeder.
After one week working it starts to skip. If I tight the bearing too much, it starts grinding the filament. So, no much difference with regards to the original UM2.
I am using the original UM2 spool holder. Do you change both, the feeder and the spool holder to achieve better results?. Does it make any difference using those low resistance spools?.
To be hionest I dont know where the problems come from: the extruder, the spool, the nozzle,... The net result I see is filament skipping and jamming all the time. :-(
Emilio.
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Una opción interesante es buscar una UMO de segunda mano. Calidad similar a la UM2 y se puede encontrar a buenos precios. En ebay.es me suena que había uno no hace mucho. Eso sí, si quieres imprimir en ABS una de segunda mano probablemente no tendrá hotbed.
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Hola Juan,
yo he pasado por varias impresoras. La UM no hace 20 micras ni de coña (yo tengo una UM2). Lo más que le puedes pedir es 60micras y gracias. Si luego le pones un hotend de 0.4 para que sirve una capa de 20 micras !?.
Yo me iriía a por una Prusa de las últimas (una steel por ejemplo). Te tendrás que montar el kit pero imprimirás con la misma calidad y por mucho menos dinero. La puedes configurar según vayas avanzando. Para cuando llegues a los más de 2000 Euros que cuesta una UM2 podrás haber probado muchas cosas.
Tampoco te aconsejo la Lulzbot. Es un prusa con mejor acabado. Si acaso el tornillo (que puedes poner también en una prusa) es el único elemento que lo diferencia. Pero no vale 2000 Euros ni por el forro!.
Conclusión: una Prusa i3 Steel de 450 Euros.
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Hi.
Is it possible to edit the Mexmixer auto-generated support?
I am able to remove it all after generating it automatically and also place my own support. But can I leave the software generate automatically the support and then *edit* the parts I want to change ?.(for instance remove or displace some posts).
I have not found a way to do so.
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If you show a printer like UM2 to an expert on CNC machinery, immediately he is going to appreciate lots of deffects on the printer. They talk about "closed loop", better motors, warmed controlled area, filament counter, lots of detector for everything (is it extruding, is the motor running or stopped, which the actual speed?,...). Of course software can be improved too. Why not evaluate the whole object and optimize printing for each area instead of printing everything with the same settings?.
These are some questions I remeber from friends who have worked on high dollar CNC machines.
The answer to most of these questions is: add more money to the bill, If you add some thousands to an UM2 you will have an improved printer, but probably you wont be able to purchase it.
Other than this there are patents that prevent some features to be added. For instance, the way to prevent seams to be seen. The solution is almost trivial but is patented. Until recently the FDM process itself was covered by a patent. Until 2014 the SLA process was covered by a patent. Small companies cannot pay expensive patents (well except the Chinese perhaps).
Makers like Stratasys deal with patents every day. They own patents and they must pay for patents. Some patents even prevent them to make some new and significant advances that would benefit the customer.
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Conny, do you use 1.75 without making any changes on the firmware, and using the original UM2 head ?
Just changin feeder tension ?
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You boys did read my message ? :-) I said "without changing the CAD model!".
The gears I want to print are not my models, And I have some dozens to print !
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Very nice!. Which wood filament have you used? Brand?
May you share your printer and sciler settings please?
Emilio.
Colorfabb PLA, layers not sticking
in Coffee corner
Posted
The package was sent by Colorfabb. It is labeled "PLA/PHA Sample Pack 2.85mm".
I have used XT before and I can tell you this filament is not XT. Looks like PLA but softer.
I believe PHA is added to increase stiffness so it looks even weirder.