emilio2

Nice description. Thanks! By the way, wouldnt be posible to do all that work at the slicer level ? I mean, the slicer can make a layer smaller or even move up the Z-axis a bit beofre printing. Wouldnt be nice to have some "Reduce elephant paws effect" switch on Cura? :-)

When priting any part, the bottom layers are always slightly larger than the rest. There is some sort of auto-skirt. I can live with it for normal parts where the bottom layer is not the most important. But, when printing gears this problem is crucial because the part does not fit other parts. If I want to fit the gear in place I need to clip the excess plastic around bottom layers. Which is, if there is one, the best method to minimize this effect and get fitted bottom layers?. (other than changing the cad model) emilio.

Daid, no hurry to fix this minor problem, but... I think you should erase the name on the main display bottom which tells what was saved last time on the SD card. Whenever you make some change to the parts or at least when you replace the plate with new parts, that message should be empty because it can be mistakenly understood as the current design has been saved with that name, which is not true.

So the new part is "Feeder_Body_For_Grommet" instead of "Feeder_v6_body" ? My UM2 feeder does not have any part like that. Can anyone point to a picture of such a part?

Robert, I cannot see clearly the washer, shown on the last part of the movie than inserts from the bottom, on the filament insertion hole. Is it a tefflon piece or what?.

By the way, if 8mm3/s is safe for my printer. Would that mean that I can extrude filament through the nozzle at 66mm/s ? (8mm3 / (0.12 mm3 per mm of filament) = 66mm).. If I use Pronterface to extrude 1000mm of filament at 66mm/s should it succeed, right?-

First try. I get this printing at 230C/60C. Although it fails somewhat at 9/10 mm3, I will let it alone like that.

On the Robert feeder Youimagine page I can see one picture detail on how to hold the bearing in place. There are two parts holding the bearing. But where can I find those 'holders' in the STL files ?.

Suddenly the feeder on the back of the UM2 is making a tuck-tuck noise. I can see the motor axis going forward for a quarter and then back again. The hotend is working. I can push filament by hand and it extrudes normaly. Actually the feeder does feed some filament, despite the tuck-tuck. I have opened the cap over the feeder and the inside is very clean. No signs of filaments or anything.(btw, who had the brilliant idea of holding the motor and the plastic parts with the same screws ? :-( ) The white plastic indicators, do they serve any purpose?. Touching the screw does not change the position at all. They are at the top position. I have replaced the filament without any success. It still makes the tuck-tuck noise. Pushing the filament through the feeder is not easy, it takes a while for the filament to pass through the feeder. I am using Ultimaker PLA. Is there any way to fix this please ?. emilio.

I have recalibrated the bed, lowered the bed temp to 60C and the speed to 30mm/s. Now it prints fine.

Thanks for your detailed answer! I have performed some tests by moving up and down the bed by hand. I can hear a "sandy" noise as if the z screw had some sort of sand or dust. I cannot tell exactly where the noise come from. The z screw is recently greased with the product that come with the printer. I believe it has a lot of grease. Perhaps too much?. Moving the bed up requires quite an effort. Moving it down is easy. The printer was bought by the original owner in March-2014. Since then the printer has been parked on a table without cover and without printing. So it had lots of dust when i bought it.

I have added the Magnalube stuff, although I think the axis was already well greased. No changes. The noise is the same. How can I change 1/8 to 1/16?. Step by step guide please!! BTW, do people print at late-night with this printer ?

Hi. I have tried Cura to print this part on my UM2, but because it printed pretty badly, I used Simplify3D instead. Although quality is better than using Cura, I get a weird layer dent on the middle of the part (it is not a crack), as you may see on the following picture. I have repeated the print two times with identical outcome. Other ugly effect you can see is that the first layers are printed inwards(perhaps too hot bed?). Material is PLA at 0.2mm, using default Simplify3D parameters for UM2.

Yes, if I place my finger in the Z-axis rod I can feel the tack-tack noise. So the noise is coming from that rod for sure. :-( It is much more noise than I expected. I own a TAZ printer and sounds like music.

Hi. I am new to UM2 and I have been printing some small test prints. I am using Cura, PLA and default profile. When printing every part I can hear a "hoarse" noise when the printer head apparently starts a new layer. I cannot tell for sure but it seems the noise can be heard always at the same head position. For instance, if printing a square box, I can hear the noise when the head is at the same corner. Otherwise the printing task is pretty quiet (compared to other printers I have). The printing finishes well. Is this 'noise' some to be expected or is it a clue that something is going wrong? Emilio.