kallisti5

I just wanted to post here that i've *FINALLY* solved all of my Ultimaker 2's warping issues. I've always had a theory that the open top was just too much for thermal management of prints. Over several years, I noticed that closing in the top with painters tape helped control warping and greatly improve bed adhesion. Whelp. I ordered one of these https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805493131735.html and installed it last night. Immediately did a print, and had absolutely zero ABS warping for the first time ever. *HIGHLY* recommended. I have no connection or affiliation with that aliexpress seller, or the manufacturer. For the price under $100, I wish I bought one years ago and wasted less of my time messing around with "free" solutions.

I'm looking to upgrade my fan shroud on my UM 2 (with Olsson Block upgrade), and really need a Silicone sock to help hold the heat in my hotend. (a lot of the fan shrouds are open on the bottom now-a-days and don't offer a flat metal plate 'enclosing' the hotend... this results in a lot of heat loss from the bare olsson block due to air currents) Since pretty much zero Silicone Socks exist on the market for the OG Olsson Block, i'm going to try my hand at casting some high-temp silicone using some molds I found online for the Olsson Block. Anyone interested buying some? Price hasn't been determined yet.. Likely < $20 USD shipped. Not accepting any "orders" until I can make a few prototypes and showcase them here.... just want to gauge interest. Full disclosure, these socks would likely involve users to perform a PID auto tune on the UM2.

@CarloK If someone from Ultimaker could resolve this issue, I can begin looking at upstreaming: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/issues/143 The licenses from Ultimaker are a bit unclear. GPL (like the rest of Marlin) was likely the intent, but it wasn't documented anywhere.

A little late to the party, but i've been looking at getting the Ultimaker 2 working with Marlin 2. It's a great printer, but it's age is starting to catch up to it. My overall work on this is tracked here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22945

I've had my Ultimaker 2 going on 6+ years now. I upgraded to the Olsen block ~5 years ago (long before Ultimaker offered the + kit). Things have been fine for years, but beginning to get a lot of random issues with stripping filament, abs warping, etc. Overall things are working, but larger prints are never successful. Since I need to do an overhaul anyway, I'm thinking of upgrading the stock extruder to an e3d titan. I'm pretty sure the firmware will need some tweaks with the 3:1 ratio of the Titan? Already running tinkergnome's firmware, so ok making the modifications myself. Thoughts? I could also buy the + kit, but would rather spend less on the e3d (and they make good stuff 🙂)

Just throwing this repair out there. I've been suffering from released PLA prints for a month or so. I began to notice when the PLA prints release, the bed is ice cold. The problem grew over time and eventually the bed refused to heat up as of this evening. While checking the heated bed terminals, I noticed the bed resistance was overload.. even when directly probing the terminals. As there was no damaged traces the issue must of been the solder joints on the SMD wire connector. I unscrewed the connector and gently wiggled it... however all of the joints were visibly in place and not mobile. Eventually I screwed the terminal back down and added some solder to reflow them. Luckily the issue disappeared after that and i'm printing again. I'm guessing there was some micro-fracture in the screw header solder joint. Glad I didn't have to buy a new bed... but a little concerning that the issue was not obvious and required a lot of assumptions. Just throwing this out there in-case anyone else runs into it and is a few clicks from purchasing a new heated bed :-) -- Alex

Not bad! No sticking issues... definitely *not* clear. Maybe the temp needs to be higher. I'll try 230 and report back. Thanks for the info on the custom material settings... once I get this ironed out i'll give it a whirl.

Doing my first print as we speak with it. I set the plastic to UPET and tuned the nozzle temp to 220C (from default 250C). Seems to be sticking so far ok to blue painters tape on bed. Technically the FormFutura is "PETG" plastic... Maybe we could convince Ultimaker to support it with a profile? :-)