stu_le_brew

My pleasure by the way I am also big fan of the Bondtech feeder (I have the QR version), its great to concentrate on design and not printer maintenance

you could try cutting say a centimetre from the end of the bowden tube which should give the white plastic part a better grip

+1 for positive comments on 3dsolex, I have not used a nozzle from Ultimaker for years, especially useful are the ruby/sapphire tipped nozzles for abrasive materials

its hard to say what has caused your problem, have you recently changed the print nozzle ? it could be that it was maybe not tight enough and leaked ? good luck with the test print

nice work - well done - I know what you mean about post processing but your result sets a high bar for bronzefil

you could try re positioning the part to a different place on the bed (left or right), this would prove @gr5 thinking

depending on what you want to achieve with your 3D printing you maybe should start looking into CAD software and try to find one that suits you, I personally am a big fan of Fussion360, but there are many other possibilities good luck and welcome

Hi Curor I would echo the thoughts of @rowiac I started out trying to use Sketchup but eventually fixed on using Fusion360. It has many advantages - its free, has a history feature which means you can go back in time and edit the design, plus lots of training on Youtube. An interesting feature for you is the links to a company called McMaster-Carr where you can download design files for hundreds of items (including many gears) you can edit them to suit your requirements good luck

To help you I would like to see the first movements of the print bed from the very beginning of a print, but I would suggest that the z stepper motor may be wired wrongly. When a real UM starts a print it resets the position of both the print head and the bed, with the bed it should move up slightly and then down to the lowest Z stop position (controlled by the limit switch) I also have no info on the controller board or the firmware release level, I assume its a kit from China ?

I agree with Didier, (now with a very serious hair cut) for me Fusion 360 is my preferred CAD product, also not a big fan of Cloud based solutions but its never let me down. It is especially powerful when you use the history function to edit the past and also using parameters to change designs. I regularly watch video on youtube by a guy called Lars Christensen (who works for AutoDesk) more than 100 tutorials available

well - good luck @SandervG to you and all of us, hope it all goes well (I can still remember the last migration, but lets leave history behind us) S

In principle it sounds like bed adhesion is your problem but to be able to offer any detailed help you need to post the settings you are using, also what materiel are you printing with

last time I needed to transport my UM2 I used the original, box and used cable ties to secure the print head from moving also I removed the bowden tube. The only other thought is to ensure nothing can move (or fall) on to the print bed glass - you also could remove it.

do you mean the UM2 original feeder? or the upgraded? One of the first upgrades I made to my UM2 was an improved belt feeder (three years ago I think) (link to site) which improved the torque and produced better results. It was not without problems so when I came across the BondTech more than a year ago now I jumped at what looked like another step function improvement (have to admit swallowing several times as its not cheap) it just works with any materiel even flexible materiel. It does benefit from periodic cleaning of the teethed gears inside I have just bought a UM2+ feeder from China and can see that it should be an improvement over the origional but have not installed it yet - its going to be part of the UM dual feeder upgrade for my machine.

the Bondtech has much more torque that the UM feeder because of the gear box. my only slight criticism is when an object has huge amounts of retractions the motor can get hot - so I have mounted several heat sinks on the motor to help get rid of it - works for me