Lofrank

Thanks @IRobertI Good experience. I will keep an eye on the nozzle to avoid having a bunch of excess melted plastic on it.

Got it. Thanks @IRobertI

Thanks @cloakfiend I want to print the first layer perfect because I'm printing iPhone cases. It will look terrible if the first layer is terrible. Anyhow, I'm trying to adjust the bed on the fly now.

Thanks @labern I already get my feeler gauge, trying to use it now:)

Thanks for your explain, I harvest a lot.

@cloakfiend I didn't realize this before, thanks.

This is exactly what I want to know, thanks. So If I want to print with 0.3mm first layer, best to adjust the distance to 0.3mm?

Thanks for sharing your experience, @xeno I'm going to try that.

Thanks @cloakfiend You really inspire me, I'm going to get the hang of it (adjusting the screws on the fly).

Thanks @xisle I think it's difficult for me to adjust the screw when printing, hard to control by eye... I'm going to buy a feeler gauges for better leveling.

Is it possible to do this without UltiControler? I don't know how to adjust the bed when it's printing. Thanks.

@labern So you use the same leveling no matter what resolution to print first layer?

@xeno Do you mean that if I want to print first layer with 0.6mm, then I need to adjust the distance to 0.6mm; if I want to print first layer with 0.3mm, then the distance should be 0.3mm? Thanks.

Hi all What's the best distance between nozzle and bed when leveling? 0.1mm? It (the leveling guide) just says that put a paper and twist the screw until feel a bit tight. I'm doubting whether need to make more tight if I want to print with 0.02mm layer resolution than 0.1mm layer resolution. Thanks.

I'm really active recent days:)

@IRobertI Thanks for your detailed description, it's likely to be happen. Anyhow I still will try it since I already placed an order for a new PTFE (who's inner diameter is 3.5mm - 4.0mm) this morning Thanks again.

I only plan to enlarge the internal diameter, keep the external diameter unchanged, which will make the plastic thinner, so won't jam? In fact, I get a spool of 2.85mm filament yesterday from the sole seller (who sells 2.85mm filament ), but the quality seems not good enough, because I get jam in the PTEE isolater coupler 4 times. Each time I have to move the coupler out and clean it. I'm sad to say this but it's truth that many things are made in China, but not sold in China, we have to buy from foreign countries. You said that so much stuff is produced here, could you give some examples? So may be helpful for me to get 2.85mm filament. Thank you for your help, as always.

I have some really 3.0 mm (or maybe 3.11 mm) filaments which always jam in the PTEE isolater coupler. So I want to enlarge the internal diameter of the PTEE isolater coupler from 3.2mm to 3.5mm or even bigger. Is there any negative effect if I do this? For example, whether the printing accuracy will be affected? Thanks.

@IRobertI That's a good idea, thank you.

@IRobertI Thanks for your explain. Could you make a 688 version when free?

@IRobertI I have a quick question for you. The 'Low friction UM2 spoolholder' designed by you is really fantastic. My question is why don't you use 688-2RS ball bearing (Which is also used by feeder, I think it's more easy to obtain), but use 608/626 ? And I will be appreciated if you can make a 688 version. Thanks.

Tried, but failed. Maybe due to bad quality of the 3.0mm filament. Will do more tests.

So maybe the 3mm filament I use is not really 3mm, maybe 3.1mm .. I will try more 3.0mm filaments in next days.

I'm going to use original robert feeder, and then try to improve it to support 3.0mm filament after familiar with it.

Yes, I'm quite sure about this, the sellers also confirmed this. Almost all China made FDM 3D printers are designed to use 1.75mm/3.0mm filament (as I know), so currently no one sells 2.85mm filament here. I also confused about this... And I'm going to print your feeder, thanks so much.